GS550E valve question

[Trolleywire]

Hello, well today after work I finally checked my valve clearances, I have a tight( cylinder 2) intake and a tight exhaust (cylinder 3). I’ve been having troubles trying to get the bike to idle so I checked everything else except for the valves, now that I’ve checked them and I’ve got two tight ones I’m honestly not sure what the next step would be for tight valves, Thanks

[Trolleywire]

Hello, well today after work I finally checked my valve clearances, I have a tight( cylinder 2) intake and a tight exhaust (cylinder 3). I’ve been having troubles trying to get the bike to idle so I checked everything else except for the valves, now that I’ve checked them and I’ve got two tight ones I’m honestly not sure what the next step would be for tight valves, Thanks

besides getting a shim tool and smaller shims. What is the stock shim size for the 550? I will have to pull out the shim and measure I guess and order smaller sizes?

[Nessism]

I will have to pull out the shim and measure I guess and order smaller sizes?

Correct.....

[oldGSfan]

Regarding the shim tool, I had good luck with the zip tie method, basically double over a zip tie and bend it into a hockey stick shape and place it in between the valve and seat while open. Then rotate the crank and out they come. Much easier IMO. I never liked the shim tool that sits on the edge of the bucket, that's how the Kawasaki Z's worked, not sure about Suzuki as I never had to buy one.

besides getting a shim tool and smaller shims. What is the stock shim size for the 550? I will have to pull out the shim and measure I guess and order smaller sizes?

[phydeauxmutt]

I never liked the shim tool that sits on the edge of the bucket, that's how the Kawasaki Z's worked, not sure about Suzuki as I never had to buy one.

They work pretty much the same way. I have had the tool slip while the shim was not quite fully in place, which shattered the shim. I was very happy to see the zip-tie method, that's all I use now.

[Trolleywire]

Regarding the shim tool, I had good luck with the zip tie method, basically double over a zip tie and bend it into a hockey stick shape and place it in between the valve and seat while open. Then rotate the crank and out they come. Much easier IMO. I never liked the shim tool that sits on the edge of the bucket, that's how the Kawasaki Z's worked, not sure about Suzuki as I never had to buy one.

interesting, do you have a diagram? I’m trying to picture it, thx.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/valve_tool_zip_tie.pdf

As found on BikeCliff's Website. You should go there and see what other treasures await.

[Grimly]

They work pretty much the same way. I have the tool slip while the shim was not quite fully in place, which shattered the shim. I was very happy to see the zip-tie method, that's all I use now.

Ditto that.
Pre getting a shim tool, I was using bent screwdrivers and other assorted gymwhackery, but then I bought Motion Pro tool, and while it works, it's nothing like as restful and easy as the simple zip-tie.

[Trolleywire]

Thanks for the tip guys!! Worked like a charm! Tomorrow after work I’ll go pick up some new shims. The (exhaust) shim in there was 2.70 and it was to tight so I’ll go down the next size. The rest were in spec but at the tighter end of the spectrum so I’ll do those as well.

[Trolleywire]

Did my valves this evening. All in spec now. One was to tight (exhaust #3) tomorrow will get it running and see if that helps with it idling now. I have new boots, cleaned carb, tested coils, charged battery. I will find out tomorrow. Also should I adjust the screws on top of the carbs? Thx.

[Trolleywire]

Ok, got the bike back together. Valves in spec. Started right up with the choke on, slowly tuned down choke until it was warm and finally off. Was idling high (much better thank before when it would not idle at all) and had to keep blipping the throttle or it would die as I was playing with turning it back up a bit. Once it dies it won’t start back up. I’m scratching my head. Valves done, good spark, new carb boots, cleaned carbs, battery charged… any thoughts why it’s (although a bit better with valves in spec) still has idle issues and won’t start back up? I would love to ride this bike. Thanks.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Maybe you’ve explained before and I missed it. How have you Completely cleaned the carbs? Using Ed Ness’s guide found on BikeCliffs Website? In other words, a complete tear-down and soak (in carb dip) of every metal component and replacement of every o-ring?

[Trolleywire]

Maybe you’ve explained before and I missed it. How have you Completely cleaned the carbs? Using Ed Ness’s guide found on BikeCliffs Website? In other words, a complete tear-down and soak (in carb dip) of every metal component and replacement of every o-ring?

I dropped off my carbs to have them put in an ultrasonic cleaner, that should sort it out. Get them synced and try and get some rides in this summer. I’ll post some pics.

[Trolleywire]

I dropped off my carbs to have them put in an ultrasonic cleaner, that should sort it out. Get them synced and try and get some rides in this summer. I’ll post some pics.

Hi again, well got my carbs back and it’s a little better, the idle is still a bit erratic… as soon as it dies it won’t start. Same problem as before. I’ve tried a lot to this bike, can’t figure it out. Im usually pretty patient but this has got me stumped.. they even adjusted the float heights as the said they were way off. Back to the drawing board.

[Rijko]

Maybe you’ve explained before and I missed it. How have you Completely cleaned the carbs? Using Ed Ness’s guide found on BikeCliffs Website? In other words, a complete tear-down and soak (in carb dip) of every metal component and replacement of every o-ring?

Ultrasonic cleaning is good for the outside of the carbs, not the inside.
You have new boots - i take it the large o-rings on them are new, too ?

Next step would be to order a set of o-rings from Robert Barr and soak & clean the carbs.
See the carb rebuild manual in my sig.