Owner by proxy

[jtyson]

I'm extremely glad you mentioned that. As obvious as that is, I imagine I would have completely forgotten about that, and quickly screwed things up.

[2BRacing]

Well, I found a feeler gauge that went down to .0015. Unfortunately, that was the smallest I could find one and had to run all around town to get it. I just came back and checked clearances again. If someone could, please confirm my method so that I know I'm doing it right, and the results are correct. If I'm doing it incorrectly, please, explain or point me to a video that will show me what I need to be doing.

To check cylinder #1, rotate the motor to where the exhaust cam lobe is pointing towards the exhaust, level with the head, and the intake cam lobe is pointing backwards toward the intake, also level with the head. I then stick my feeler gauge in between the cam lobe and the shim.
To check cylinder #2,#3 and #4, I repeat the process, each time rotating the motor so that the lobes for each cylinder are facing forward and backward.

Assuming that is correct, I am still slightly screwed.

Your method is not correct. According to the OEM service manual (look on BassCliff page to download manual) you measure either exhaust or intake of two adjacent cylinders at the same time when the cam has been turned to the proper orientation, and not exhaust and intake of the same cylinder.

Turn motor so that the #1 exhaust cam lobe points forward and parallel with the top of the head. This is the position to check the exhaust clearances for cylinders 1 and 2.

Once you've checked exhaust #1 and #2, turn the motor so that the #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check clearances for intake #1 and #2.

Now on to #3 and #4. Turn the motor so that the #4 exhaust cam lobe is parallel to the head, pointing forward. Check clearances for #3 and #4 exhaust.

Next, turn the motor so that the #4 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check intake clearances for #3 and #4.

[jtyson]

Your method is not correct. According to the OEM service manual (look on BassCliff page to download manual) you measure either exhaust or intake of two adjacent cylinders at the same time when the cam has been turned to the proper orientation, and not exhaust and intake of the same cylinder.

Turn motor so that the #1 exhaust cam lobe points forward and parallel with the top of the head. This is the position to check the exhaust clearances for cylinders 1 and 2.

Once you've checked exhaust #1 and #2, turn the motor so that the #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check clearances for intake #1 and #2.

Now on to #3 and #4. Turn the motor so that the #4 exhaust cam lobe is parallel to the head, pointing forward. Check clearances for #3 and #4 exhaust.

Next, turn the motor so that the #4 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check intake clearances for #3 and #4.

Thank you for clearing that up! I downloaded the manual from the site, but since it is 476 pages in image form, I wasn't able to search it for any related terms like I would a PDF. I tried going through the index and looking, but I can't find any reference of valves or timing. Call me a product of my generation I guess, not able to use a regular book correctly.

I will re check the clearances again tomorrow. Hopefully that tool will be in then too. It was supposed to be here Wednesday, but I guess the seller didn't feel like getting it out on time.

I started pulling the carbs apart to clean this evening, but stopped about halfway in, because I have poor lighting in my garage and need the sun to help. I'm trying to do some research on jet sizes now, and see what I've got in there compared to stock. The previous owner obviously didn't clean the carbs correctly though, so I'm glad I'm pulling them apart and doing it right.

[wymple]

What you are missing is the as yet unrecognized truth. Once you've gotten this thing sorted, you will know a whole lot about GS Suzukis, you will learn to appreciate the masterpieces, and will catch the bug and start shopping. Happens to all of us.

[jtyson]

I'm not a lover or a hater of any brand, but I will say, I prefer my crotch rockets for going fast and my Harley's for cruising along. If it has to be carbureted, I'd like a single carb. That is the only thing that really drives me away from owning more of these old bikes myself.

I haven't made any progress in the last couple days. Had to help a couple people move. Back at it tomorrow I hope.

[jtyson]

Wanted to drop an update. After swapping shims out a couple times, finally got everything there in spec. Finished cleaning carbs and ended up having to replace a float seat and needle, so had to wait for that to be shipped. Had to make an emergency trip to New York from New Mexico so that killed a week for me. Got back yesterday and decided to try and make this thing move today.

I set the float level on the last carb, slapped them on (just bench synced), popped the aftermarket exhaust off that doesn't fit right, ghetto rigged some things up so I could get the stock pipes to seal, and started it up. It is actually running quite a bit better. Rideable now. It is still a bit lean in the mid throttle range, so I'm debating on following the how to on cutting down the spacer on the needle. Wondering if I should vacuum sync before bothering with that though? Not sure that will make the difference I need, but I may try.

I took the bike out on a short cruise to test how it feels. STIFF. Man I hate rigid bikes. But, my friend is about as short as they come, so until we find reasonably priced 9.75" shocks, it is what it is. It does okay power-wise though. City driving is fine. Seems a little slower than I would have liked at highway speeds, but I'm used to crotch rockets so I may be setting the bar too high.

[eil]

A carb sync will smooth out the idle and the low end of the throttle. It should be done, but it won't affect the mid-range any.

Are you running pods still? You might want to try a DynoJet Stage 3 kit.

Your friend should have bought an L model. Those tend to have a lower seat height without impairing or removing the suspension. I'm 5'10", so not considered short, but I have a far easier time handling my 850L than the 750E with its higher bench-style seat.

[jtyson]

A carb sync will smooth out the idle and the low end of the throttle. It should be done, but it won't affect the mid-range any.

Are you running pods still? You might want to try a DynoJet Stage 3 kit.

Your friend should have bought an L model. Those tend to have a lower seat height without impairing or removing the suspension. I'm 5'10", so not considered short, but I have a far easier time handling my 850L than the 750E with its higher bench-style seat.

It is actually idling very smoothly and running well on the low end. I must've been lucky doing the bench sync. I have the gauges though, so I'll probably do it anyway. Yes, it is still pods on the bike. He is trying to get it to riding status as cheap as possible, so hunting down pricey stock parts wasn't an option. Working with what we've got. I also told him a jet kit would be the best route, but he wants to ride it around a bit first to see if he wants to bother putting more into it or not. So far, only about $750 including purchase price. Of course all my labor is free though.

As for purchasing a different model, we weren't specifically looking for a Suzuki. He just wanted a bike as cheap as possible. 250 rebel or gsxr 600 didn't matter to him. Two wheels was the goal. This happened to be the cheapest option in town. Either way though, he is all of 5'1" tall, so I'm afraid no matter the model, it would have to be lowered significantly. He still can't flat foot it with it ridgid @ 9.5" and a seat pan with 2" springs and 1.5" of foam. I'm 5'10" and I feel like my knees touch my ears on this thing.

[jtyson]

I hooked up the vacuum gauges, and somehow, by some miracle, everything was perfectly in sync. So I didn't tweak it at all. I rode it to my buddy's house last night. Put about 20 miles on it, without any hiccups. He rode it to work this morning. So, for now, it is done. I told him it still needs to be jetted to be right, but he wants to find short shocks first, to save his spine. He doesn't like the rigid. Which doesn't surprise me.

I appreciate the help from everyone. I'll still drop in and update as we tweak things here and there, for as long as he keeps it.

[jtyson]

I royally screwed my back riding that bike. FUBAR. I'm eating muscle relaxers and pain pills like they are going out of style. My buddy brought it over and used my tools to put the stock shocks back on until he can buy some shorter ones. He can barely touch with 1 foot, only toes down. But otherwise he is happy with the bike so far. He wishes it was an automatic. I told him he should buy some tampons and trade it for a scooter. (Not an intent to offend any lady members we may have on here, I'm sure you're all wonderful)

[alke46]

. I told him he should buy some tampons and trade it for a scooter. (Not an intent to offend any lady members we may have on here, I'm sure you're all wonderful)[/QUOTE]

You have no idea of what you just let yourself open to. Soon the nice ladies here will be on you like a cheap suit.

[1948man]

Lots of Midol helps.