Newbie with a GS1000s

[Clive Martin]

Hi Guys,
What a lot of information in a short space of time.
I have noticed that the starter clutches are quite a bit cheaper in the US than in the UK. There is a few about but all the part numbers are different from one and other. Will they all fit ?
I am pretty sure the starter clutch is my problem. It has made some clanging noises while trying to start, but I forgot to mention this before.
Thanks for the info on the sidestand, I need to investigate further.
I will be going for a set of handlebar mirrors because of the cost.
Regards Clive

[chuck hahn]

You dont need to buy a starter clutch just yet..what you need to do is get the valves adjusted and do a carb rebuild and gauge sync them first. If the noise goes away around 1800 RPMs its NOT the starter clutch..its the cylinders fighting each other from out of adjustment maintenance issues. If even one spring is broke in the starter clutch the dowels will not grip the crank. Since you started it tells me the starter clutch works. Sounds travel down the crankshaft and just because it "sounds like " its at the left side doesnt necessarily mean thats so.

The one thing that breaks a starter clutch is the springs..they are fine wire and weak. I use the springs from clicker style ink pens when i rebuild a starter clutch..drop right in and tougher.

Go here and scroll down on the right side and follow the carb rebuild guide.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

[Kiwi Canuck]

You dont need to buy a starter clutch just yet..what you need to do is get the valves adjusted and do a carb rebuild and gauge sync them first. If the noise goes away around 1800 RPMs its NOT the starter clutch..its the cylinders fighting each other from out of adjustment maintenance issues. If even one spring is broke in the starter clutch the dowels will not grip the crank. Since you started it tells me the starter clutch works. Sounds travel down the crankshaft and just because it "sounds like " its at the left side doesnt necessarily mean thats so.

The one thing that breaks a starter clutch is the springs..they are fine wire and weak. I use the springs from clicker style ink pens when i rebuild a starter clutch..drop right in and tougher.

Go here and scroll down on the right side and follow the carb rebuild guide.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf

Chuck, good call on that, I didn't mean to suggest that you needed a new starter clutch by my post above, just showing the price comparisons.
It's worth taking care of the maintenance items suggested by Chuck and then see if that takes care of the noise, if not then a repair of the starter clutch could be all you need.

Here is what I found in my Canadian Cooley sump once I pulled it off, a blowed up starter clutch apparently, also found a few fragments of a clutch plate, always interesting to discover the history of your bike.



David

[Clive Martin]

Thanks for the advice. I will do what Chuck has suggested and see how it goes.
Regards Clive

[chuck hahn]

Hard to tell from the pics..are those stocker VM26 carbs or Vm 29s ????

[hampshirehog]

Hard to tell from the pics..are those stocker VM26 carbs or Vm 29s ????

They're probably 28s Chuck (but I can't tell for sure from the photos). They came as standard on our SNs plus some of the Es.

[chuck hahn]

yeah..i forgot he said it came from Europe at one time. I got a set of those 28s on the shelf.

[Clive Martin]

Hi to all,
It has been some time since I last posted, this is down to frustration.
I have done the valve clearances, stripped and rebuilt the carbs. Put it all back together, started her up and it still sounds like a box of bolts.
I put it in the corner of the garage and covered her it over for a while.
My wife threatened to buy me a box of matches for Christmas so I could set fire to it, so this has led me to see if I can do something.
Yesterday I bought another engine, but it is from a GS1000E number 146414.
I was told when I first posted that the engine currently in my bike is probably not the original one, not that that really bothers me.
I do now have questions.
Are the engines basicly the same.
The carbs on my bike are different to the ones with the engine I have bought. I have VM's at the moment and the engine came with CV's, can I use my original ones with the replacement engine.
The engine has come with Boyer electronics and the fitting instructions, my one had the original points. Can I assume this would be good to keep.
Any help would be good.
Regards Clive

[Frank Z.]

Clive,
Unlikely you'll be able to use the VMs on your replacement motor, as the newer cylinder head's intake ports are larger. If you want to keep the mechanical carbs, you can swap heads (the motors are basically the same); otherwise, go with the CVs, as they're decent carbs for a streetable setup.

Electronic ignition is definitely a step up.

Good luck with the motor swap, and put away those matches.

[Clive Martin]

Thanks for a quick response Frank,
All good information.
I have to clear a bike off of my work bench before I can start the swop.
Hopefully over Christmas or early next year.
Regards Clive

[Frank Z.]

Reading earlier posts about your rattling noise, have you checked to see if the cam chain tensioner is functioning/adjusted properly? Could be you're getting cam chain slap. Just a thought.

[Clive Martin]

Hi Frank, all the noise seems to be in the starter clutch area.
I looked into replacing it all, but the cost was very high.
The replacement engine appears to be fine,so I will try this first.
At the moment, I just want to be able to ride it. I think it is a cracking looking bike.
I can in time strip and try to sort the original lump.
Regards Clive

[Kiwi Canuck]

Clive, good luck on the new engine.

Removing the engine on the GS is actually quite easy, there are a few tutorials and videos on youtube.

My preferred way was to remove the top of the engine including the head.

I would place a milk crate (or wooden box) at the same height as the engine to the right of the bike.

I would then straddle the bike and lift the engine out sideways, with the head removed it was much lighter and gave clearance to lift it out.

With a bit of practise I could get an engine out and on the bench in well under 2 hours.

Now putting that new engine back in will need 2 people if you don't want to tear it down, but you may want to remove the cam cover as it gives you that extra little bit of clearance needed. (as you may want to check the valve clearances anyway)


Cheers,

David.

[chuck hahn]

The starter clutch doesnt need replaced entirely unless the main casting is cracked and even then it may be weldable. There are rebuild kits with new springs, plungers, and dowels readily available. Just use new bolts and red loctite them in when reinstalling to the rotor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/suzuki-gs1150-gs1100-gs1000-gs850-gs750-gs650-rebuild-STARTER-CLUTCH-REPAIR-KIT-/351596020982?fits=Make%3ASuzuki&hash=item51dcc184f6:g:QPMAAOSwwbdWNCDp&vxp=mtr

[Clive Martin]

Thanks for all the replies.
There will be two of us when the engine is swopped over.
Regards Clive