That, or an spark plug with an integrated resistor has been combined with a spark plug cap that also has a resistor. While usually there's still enough oomph to get a spark, it'll be weak and it doesn't take much of anything else being out of whack (see above), and you'll have no spark.
I haven't yet seen a weak coil (i.e. not enough to fire) on my bikes, they were either fine or dead. One bike was not not firing on a single cylinder in one case (coils were fine), the other bike wouldn't come alive and just stumble (one coil had failed, the other one was fine).
From my understanding, the transition from a coil working to failed usually happens quite quickly, not much in between. But maybe someone with more experience than me can chime in.
Too rich: can be due to
- needle valve not closing correctly because of fouling/contamination.
- damaged floats, but be aware that none of the 30year+ floats in my carbs have failed (yet?).
- float level setting wrong - but be aware that the tabs won't bend just for fun. Somebody would've tampered with it
- Air/fuel screw setting screwed(eheheh) up. Doesn't also happen by itself (again tampering), but all four would be wrong at the same time.
- clogged air passages, generally clogged up carb
- some more, but...
...don't assume that somebody has done shoddy work on the carbs. I suspect electrical. If you have one and know how to use it, take a multimeter with you, stick the probes in spark plug cap #1 and #3, measure resistance. Expect 15kΩ (spark plug without resistors, if resistors present, add 5kΩ per resistor) resistance. If you don't get continuity, or a much higher reading either the caps are bad or the coil has indeed failed (to distinguish you have to disconnect the plug caps and measure directly at the high tension cable). Intermittent reading is very likely a bad spark plug cap.
(All of this assumes VM22SS carbs).
Edit: resistance readings
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