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A trip through Detroit's east side

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    A trip through Detroit's east side

    A little back story:

    I grew up in the Detroit East Side suburb of Grosse Pointe. The Pointe was a pretty great place to grow up. It was a nice, safe area, but was located less than 10 minutes from downtown. The house that I grew up in was 4 blocks from the ghetto in one direction, and 2 blocks in another. My area was referred to as the ‘Cabbage Patch’, a neighborhood of relatively modest houses belonging to working parents trying to get their kids in a good school system. In the summer, with the windows open you could often hear gunfire in the distance. I am not kidding. Once I found a slug from what looked like a handgun in the middle of our balcony.

    I remember hearing that Grosse Pointe Park had more police per square mile than any other city in America. Most of them were doing what we locals half-jokingly referred to as ‘border patrol’, which is exactly what it sounds like. I realize that it is not politically correct, but it was a fact of life that I grew up with. Detroit is an interesting and complex place, and communities do what they can to survive, and many fail.

    Anyway, it was a cool place to grow up, because there was always the city, just a few blocks away. With it’s constant promise of homeless that would buy alcohol for you in exchange for a pack of cigarettes. There were many un-policed areas where speed limits and road laws don’t exist. Breaking into abandoned buildings often proved a good distraction for a couple hours. And on the rare occasion that you did run into the law, you were often just told to go home, and whatever contraband you had would be confiscated. The police had bigger things to worry about than a bunch of suburban kids causing relatively little trouble.

    I’m not justifying any of it, but it was certainly fun at the time.

    Today:

    I had to make a quick run down the Fisher Building, which is located downtown just west of Woodward (Detroit’s Main Street). I was leaving around three o’clock, and since this was my first day commuting on the newly finished (well, it will probably never be totally finished) 750 I decided to take city roads and side streets home. I had my camera with me, and decided to snap a couple pics of the bike in front of various things/places.




    Detroit has a lot of little pockets of what used to be nice neighborhoods, and are now mostly abandoned. This building is located downtown off Woodward near Wayne State University’s campus. Personally I find the fake castle exterior interesting, but very tacky. There are a few other abandoned buildings on this block, many more empty lots that used to have homes and buildings on them, and a couple of people still holding out. As is typical in the city, across the street from this building there is a nice house in what looks like the middle of a successful restoration.




    Rivertown:

    My second summer home from college I took a job as a waiter at the Soup Kitchen Saloon, in Detroit’s Rivertown. The area was originally a shipping port and industrial center. Most of the shipping and manufacturing has stopped, but the area had undergone a transition into a restaurant and entertainment district. There were a lot of bars and restaurants, an outdoor concert venue, and some nice loft buildings. It was one of only a few vital areas in Detroit at the time.

    The Soup, as I will call it, was a blast to work at. The job itself sucked, but the people I worked with were fun, and I always had cash. I also saved almost no money that summer. Most was spent at other bars and after hours clubs.

    The Soup started out as a mariners’ bar in the 1850’s and had since turned into Detroit’s home of the blues. We had live music most nights, featuring some pretty big names in blues, and usually did a pretty good business. We also had an owner and manager (as well as waiters) that like to disappear for extended stretches of the evening and indulge in coke binges. I wasn’t really into that, so I struck a deal with the bartender, and ended up drinking during most of my shifts.

    I am still friends with that bartender.

    Anyway, in the late 90’s Detroit approved casinos, and the original plan was to put them on the waterfront. Many of us thought that was stupid. Casinos don’t need views, because they don’t have windows. They don’t want you to be reminded that there is a world outside of the gambling, although I guess the hotels would have a nice view of the river.

    The casino owners, with the help of the city, took ownership of most of the area. Landowners that wouldn’t sell mostly found their buildings condemned and taken away, citing eminent domain. The owners were then given a ‘fair price’ for their property.

    A few years went by, temporary casinos were built elsewhere, they became a lot less temporary, and when the new ones started construction, they were all in different areas. Now Rivertown is a shell of what it once was. There are a couple bars and businesses, but most of it is abandoned and torn down.

    It bums me out whenever I drive through it. Another reminder that you can’t go back home.



    Here is the lot the Soup used to stand on:

    And another picture looking in the opposite direction:
    Last edited by Guest; 03-29-2007, 08:05 AM.

    #2
    Detroit River:



    This is the next to the outdoor concert venue, Chene Park, in Rivertown. When I was younger we used to take a friend’s sailboat and anchor out in the river during concerts. We still talk about it a lot, but we don’t really do it any more. We’ve gotten old. I had to ride up on the sidewalk and 50 yards into the park, past a sign warning against doing just about anything. No bike riding, rollerblading, dogs, drinking…etc. Didn’t say anything about motorcycles though. I kept a sharp eye for cops, and there are still only few people out at this time of year, so I escaped without getting in trouble.

    Atwater Block Brewery:



    As I was leaving Rivertown, I drove past a brewery where a couple of my friends work. They had the loading door open, and were taking a break. I pulled up, and was quickly offered a beer by my buddy Hazen, the brewmaister. It was a Maiboch that just came off the bottling line that day. Nice.

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      #3
      Belle Isle:

      Here is a nice ride; I often take my road bikes here for a workout on good weather days. The Detroit Grand Prix was run here, and the roads are pretty nice (in most places). There are a bunch of things to see and do on the island. This being Detroit, there are also some major problems with the place.

      Here’s the bike in front of the big fountain on the island. I can’t remember its name.



      Belle Isle also has a population of deer. There are no natural predators on the island, and they are pretty tame. Most will approach people in hopes of getting a stab at the picnic basket.

      They are also incredibly inbred, and most are sickly looking albinos. A few years back, in an effort to increase their health, and make the island a little safer, most of the deer were trapped and put in the defunct island zoo.


      I wonder if the brown one is ostracized, like Rudolph was, and isn’t allowed to join in on the various deer high jinks.



      A couple of rare specimens.
      Last edited by Guest; 03-29-2007, 08:03 AM.

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        #4
        The East Side:

        The ghetto area that sits near the Grosse Pointe border is an interesting place. It originally was neighborhoods of people that mostly worked for the auto industry. The houses were nice, and well maintained. Then, as industry started to leave, so did most of the families. There are still a few people holding out, but many of the homes are abandoned, low to no income housing, and vacant lots.

        There are also a bunch of boat yards and canals snaking through the area. Because of this, there are some nice areas and houses holding on, and there are pockets of areas that are home to ‘artist types’.




        Here is a house that intrigued me, so I had to snap a couple pics of it. I later found out that it belongs to a friend of a friend, and the entire house is covered in metal. Including the roof, which has metal tiles (I didn’t get a good pic of that). Supposedly the theme is included inside. It is now my goal to get in there.



        My dad grew up in the downriver area of Detroit. When he was a kid it was mostly rural, and over time it developed into a series of neighborhoods and strip malls. When I was young, and we would drive through the area, my dad would point out the various places he used to hunt and fish, that were now different developments. A common line was ‘This used to all be fields, now it’s nothing but houses’.

        When I was a kid, this area was all houses, then in an attempt to make the area safer/nicer there was a wave of condemnings and dozings. Now it is not uncommon to be able to see through vacant lots for blocks at a time.



        When I have a son, I will end up driving him through the area and stating that when I was a kid ‘these used to be houses, now it’s nothing but fields’.

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          #5
          This pic looks like it could be taken in any nice working class neighborhood anywhere.




          And here is the same block about 5 houses down.







          And then a little further up the road.

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            #6
            Here is another common Detroit site. The guy doesn’t have the money to put a new roof on, so the house gets covered with a tarp, for years at a time. You can’t see it too well in the picture, but there is a satellite dish mounted up there in the middle, next to the edge of the tarp.



            Crime is pretty terrible in this area, but I think this house is reasonably safe. It is protected by four of the largest rottweilers I have ever seen, and I have a rottweiler. They were very interested in my bike.




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              #7
              Angel Park:

              This is a park on the waterfront that sits just outside of Grosse Pointe. When I was in high school we used to bring kegs here and drink in this lot, and generally act like a-holes. On weekend nights there could be well over 50 high school kids and dozens of cars here. This is also where locals would fish and bbq. There was an uneasy detente between us and them, but there were rarely any problems.



              This is also the parking lot where I lost my virginity, in the back of a Chevy Celebrity that I borrowed from my grandma. It was quite romantic.




              Behind the park, surrounded by canals, is Harbor Island. It is about the size of a city block, and is only accessible by one bridge. Most of the houses are nice, and the area is safe. The big corner house was owned by a friend’s parents, and on Tuesdays we used to all meet there and play full contact croquet, which could, and often, included being sent into the canals. The only rule was that you had to have a beer in your hand at all times. Then when we were all good and primed, we would take out his parents’ huge wooden sailboat. I know this all sounds lame and bourgeois, but I swear it was fun.

              Here was their house:


              After a couple good hours of tooling around I ended up back at my buddy’s house. Here is his son wearing my helmet. It kills me how much kids love motorcycle helmets.




              I know that some of the stuff in these posts cast Detroit in a bad light, but there are a lot of great things about this city, and a lot of great people. It's my hometown and I love it.
              Last edited by Guest; 03-29-2007, 03:19 AM.

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                #8
                Interesting stuff! Having been to Detroit several times, there's a lot of it I've never seen. Don't know why, but nobody you visit near any major city ever wants to take you around to SHOW you the city.

                In Detroit's case, nobody would go any further than 8 mile......

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                  #9
                  When the movie Eight Mile came out a great many of my friends and I were pretty amused. I technically live south of Eight Mile, and I have several friends that live/have lived in the areas portrayed in the film.

                  To people that never venture near the city Eight Mile might seem like a mile marker not to be crossed, in real life it is much more complicated than that. There really isn't much difference between one side and the other in my opinion, it's all kind of a gray zone of fun/sadness.

                  I actually travel the road often, it is a major artery between the east side and the west side. It's the first stretch of road that I took this bike down, and if you read the thread about it breaking down last week, that took place on the 'wrong side' of eight mile.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Serious Tim View Post
                    Interesting stuff! Having been to Detroit several times, there's a lot of it I've never seen. Don't know why, but nobody you visit near any major city ever wants to take you around to SHOW you the city.

                    In Detroit's case, nobody would go any further than 8 mile......
                    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, Eight Mile is home to most of the East Side's strip clubs, and not much else. So what were your friends showing you down there?

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                      #11
                      Actually, nothing......they just said that's as far as they go

                      I know people on just about every exit on the 696 up through maybe exit 12, but I recently left a major forum that I started that they were members of, so I doubt I'll be back to see any of them anytime soon. My GS originally came from there after living its whole life in Detroit.

                      Never did get to see Greektown.........

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                        #12
                        Wish I had you for a tour guide last time I got lost in Detroit at night.
                        Knowing which neighborhoods were a little bit less worse than others would have been a warm fuzzy. The five drunk women in the back of the little ****box rental car were of no use.

                        Did you get a real battery before embarking on this adventure or are you still trusting your luck?
                        The bike really looks good in the pictures.
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                          #13
                          I got a new battery, I'm not that adventurous.

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                            #14
                            Great stories, all of 'em and love the pics. Most of the Great Lakes steel towns have had similar fates and cycles, so none of it painted a bad light to me... just kind of what I know and watched in my own area, and heard the "used to be" stories. Growing up having abandoned buildings to check out or at least dream about was neat stuff for me too. And the parks by the water to party with friends... good times.

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                              #15
                              I made a similar trip into Detroit to find where I once lived as a kid. Some of my experince on that trip was kinda similar to your trip. Although it was my early grade school years that I lived there, so didnt involve drinking partys and loosing virginity and summer jobs. But seeing abandonded neighborhoods and such was similar.

                              I didnt find the house, but did find things that were nearby to the house, so that was strange. Talked to my parents and found that we moved away mostly because I-75 was comming thru right over that place. Right where I-75 crosses over Fort St.

                              Anyway, I enjoyed your pictures and stories and social commentary.
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