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Just thought I’d jot down some notes/relate my story as to my recent GSX1100 top end rebuild.
I bought the bike in late September 07. My main reason for it was that I had just bought a race bike of the same make and vintage. I’ve never been much of a Suzuki fan, but the race bike was too good to pass on, and then the obvious choice for a road bike was the red beastie as it provided instant spare parts, and enabled me to get used to/keep familiar with the feel of the race bike whilst riding on the road.
The only issue was that the red beastie had 2 obvious oil leaks (head gasket and oil pan gasket) which would require urgent fixing before it could pass its annual roadworthy inspection.
As per usual I scoured fleabay looking for cheap gaskets (these are pricey here, especially OEM stuff so the U.S. stuff is welcome). I did find some gaskets, but whilst floundering around the site one day I found a Wiseco 1140 kit for a very reasonable sum. I couldn’t say no (although the wife could’ve, so I didn’t tell her till after the transaction was complete). Better still, not only did I get the kit, but I made a valuable contact in the spare parts world for this bike.
Then the process began. I have never done this kind of rebuild before, but one thing a little age has taught me is to take things easy. That in itself is not easy for me as I am about as patient as a mouse with a bit of cheese. I need things done, and done now. Worse still I am about as delicate as Tim the Tool man, but not as skilful.
I had my Haines manual and began to pull the engine apart. I have no doubt the Haines manuals are useful, indeed they guided me through this, but I often have to read the thing 10 times to understand what’s meant to happen (making me feel stupid and frustrating the impatient man).
As I pulled each part off I took to cleaning it. I started calling the bike Linda Lovelace it was so dirty, but like Linda it eventually got cleaned up. This bike had lived way out west in New South Wales in amongst the red dirt of the area, and the stuff was everywhere. After many hours spent cleaning it still only looks like a well used bike. Without a major rebuild it will never look like new again.
I sent the Wiseco kit and block off so the block could get bored out to fit the new pistons. 3 Days later I was able to collect it. I continued to clean the engine, and then remove the pistons. Generally speaking the removal was quite painless, except the many times I squashed fingers with spanners or poked hands with screwdrivers etc. The only real issue arose getting the block off. It was 27 years reluctant. WD40, soft mallets and brute strength were all employed to get it away from the crank casing and the pistons.
The fun really started when it was time to put it all back together. Here are some of the things I learnt:
üPiston ring clamps would make the job easier but are too expensive.
üLowering the block over the new pistons is time consuming and needs two people.
üThe wife has better fine motor skills than I.
üSetting the timing is time consuming and not as easy as it reads.
üGetting the timing right the first time would probably save about a week of work.
üWhen setting the cam timing, it is not important for the cam chain to neatly match up to the links, the amount of pins is what’s important.
üIf something goes wrong it is likely to be my fault, not the parts, the tools, the bike etc
üCarburettors are finicky things often needing fuel for them to work.
üThe Dynojet kit instructions are reliable when the previous point is taken into consideration.
üFriends who have any idea (as opposed my no idea) are invaluable. (I suppose I have to be thankful I do in fact have friends, although they are probably not so thankful to have me as one).
To elaborate:
When I first lowered the block onto the new pistons I was bemused to think it was going to fit over the rings. I had no idea what to do. I read many times the Haines manual but it kept referring to ring clamps (what the??) I rang around to get some clamps only to find they’re a special order item that costs $40 min each. I rang my friend (probably call number 2010) who said he and his wife did his engine utilising screwdrivers with tape on the end. Both of you squash the ring and somehow lower the block. This is where I discovered my wife has far greater fine motor skills. What’s more, we only disagreed on the best process to use about 20 times, so domestics were at a minimum. The process probably took 2 hrs, but now I’ve done it once, I reckon I could do it in 2 hrs next time.
Apparently the crankshaft has 2 timing marks. One for the 1-4 pistons, another for the other 2. Hello, this is not mentioned in the Haines manual. So when you set the camshaft timing/crankshaft timing to the 2-3 marker the engine just wont work, no matter how much you try to start it, blame the carbs, think you’ve blown it up or not put the block on etc. After 3 to 4 days you make call number 2037 and your friend tells you about the other timing marker. Then you realise you’ve got to disassemble half the bike again. Its funny how quickly the bike starts when the timing is right. (The bad thing now is that when you encounter problems starting the bike it’s going to be the timing and nothing else – even if it’s not the timing)
Also on the timing, the Haines manual provides a picture of what the cams and chain should look like when put together. You don’t have to replicate this picture. If you do the bike will start then stop, then confuse you, then have you calling your friend for calls numbered 2067 to 2101. The timing has to be precise, but what is important when looking at the Haines manual is the position of the timing markers, and the number of pins on the chain between the markers, not the neatness of the set up. 10 degrees out is not good enough. When you figure all this out the bike will run unless of course you have modified the fuel set up.
My bike started to run, in fact good enough to take it to a workshop, and pass its inspection. BUT after 2 good days of running, it would start to misbehave and eventually bog down. Being very knowledgeable, sorry I should say having a little bit of knowledge making me dangerous, and not believing the instructions on the DJ kit, I started mucking around with the jetting on the carbs. I had modified them to reflect what DJ instructed, but after a week or so of mucking around and call number 3054 I couldn’t get the bike to run properly. I got real desperate. I even contemplated just putting the bike on ebay. It was now 8 weeks since I had started work on the bike and my wife was now just a stranger I passed in the halls of the house and saw just before lodging myself into our (still shared luckily) bed.
In desperation I started sending random emails to people who had websites dedicated to these bikes. The most meaningful replies came from Mike with the Flying Banana. His Katana is a shining example to all home mechanics and his advice sage. Even with his advice I still was not convinced of any fuel problem as I had the timing thing firmly in my thinking. I bought more tools (I have spent 3x more on tools in this rebuild than on parts)
After much arguing (with myself) I came to the conclusion the timing was no longer an issue. If the marker is hitting the marker when the strobe lights up the timing is good. When the multimeter says the required ohm, volts or whatever are going through the electrical items, then they are. (Side note – my mate is actually an auto electrician but I called him less during this saga than at other stages – so I was only up to call 4017).
One piece of advice Mr Flying Banana (I’m surprised he replied to me because that’s actually how I addressed him in my first email - I was under much duress) provided was the critical piece of advice that I had not considered. Ensure the fuel line is free flowing, that is, remove filters, and have the fuel line the right length so that there are no kinks, sharp bends or ups and downs. I had seen on The GS Resources a fancy fuel line set up and tried to emulate it. All that I had managed to do was starve the bike of fuel. The bike would start, run OK for a while, and when you gave it a bit of stick, it would starve and stop. I would tow the bike home, then it would start again. It couldn’t possibly be anything I did I removed my fancy set up, replaced with a nice simple piece of fuel hose straight to the carbies and guess what!
I have a 27 year old Suzuki GSX1100E that looks a bit rough, but now goes like a cut snake. I have owned 17 bikes in 17 years, and this is my 2nd favourite (a zx12r will always have that No. 1 spot). I am amazed the difference the piston kit has made to the power output and the DJ kit has also worked, with only the need to raise the needle 1 clip. The bike looks cumbersome but with good springs and koni shocks it handles well.
Adversity often brings people closer, well adversity has enamoured me to the Red Beastie.
I bought the bike in late September 07. My main reason for it was that I had just bought a race bike of the same make and vintage. I’ve never been much of a Suzuki fan, but the race bike was too good to pass on, and then the obvious choice for a road bike was the red beastie as it provided instant spare parts, and enabled me to get used to/keep familiar with the feel of the race bike whilst riding on the road.
The only issue was that the red beastie had 2 obvious oil leaks (head gasket and oil pan gasket) which would require urgent fixing before it could pass its annual roadworthy inspection.
As per usual I scoured fleabay looking for cheap gaskets (these are pricey here, especially OEM stuff so the U.S. stuff is welcome). I did find some gaskets, but whilst floundering around the site one day I found a Wiseco 1140 kit for a very reasonable sum. I couldn’t say no (although the wife could’ve, so I didn’t tell her till after the transaction was complete). Better still, not only did I get the kit, but I made a valuable contact in the spare parts world for this bike.
Then the process began. I have never done this kind of rebuild before, but one thing a little age has taught me is to take things easy. That in itself is not easy for me as I am about as patient as a mouse with a bit of cheese. I need things done, and done now. Worse still I am about as delicate as Tim the Tool man, but not as skilful.
I had my Haines manual and began to pull the engine apart. I have no doubt the Haines manuals are useful, indeed they guided me through this, but I often have to read the thing 10 times to understand what’s meant to happen (making me feel stupid and frustrating the impatient man).
As I pulled each part off I took to cleaning it. I started calling the bike Linda Lovelace it was so dirty, but like Linda it eventually got cleaned up. This bike had lived way out west in New South Wales in amongst the red dirt of the area, and the stuff was everywhere. After many hours spent cleaning it still only looks like a well used bike. Without a major rebuild it will never look like new again.
I sent the Wiseco kit and block off so the block could get bored out to fit the new pistons. 3 Days later I was able to collect it. I continued to clean the engine, and then remove the pistons. Generally speaking the removal was quite painless, except the many times I squashed fingers with spanners or poked hands with screwdrivers etc. The only real issue arose getting the block off. It was 27 years reluctant. WD40, soft mallets and brute strength were all employed to get it away from the crank casing and the pistons.
The fun really started when it was time to put it all back together. Here are some of the things I learnt:
üPiston ring clamps would make the job easier but are too expensive.
üLowering the block over the new pistons is time consuming and needs two people.
üThe wife has better fine motor skills than I.
üSetting the timing is time consuming and not as easy as it reads.
üGetting the timing right the first time would probably save about a week of work.
üWhen setting the cam timing, it is not important for the cam chain to neatly match up to the links, the amount of pins is what’s important.
üIf something goes wrong it is likely to be my fault, not the parts, the tools, the bike etc
üCarburettors are finicky things often needing fuel for them to work.
üThe Dynojet kit instructions are reliable when the previous point is taken into consideration.
üFriends who have any idea (as opposed my no idea) are invaluable. (I suppose I have to be thankful I do in fact have friends, although they are probably not so thankful to have me as one).
To elaborate:
When I first lowered the block onto the new pistons I was bemused to think it was going to fit over the rings. I had no idea what to do. I read many times the Haines manual but it kept referring to ring clamps (what the??) I rang around to get some clamps only to find they’re a special order item that costs $40 min each. I rang my friend (probably call number 2010) who said he and his wife did his engine utilising screwdrivers with tape on the end. Both of you squash the ring and somehow lower the block. This is where I discovered my wife has far greater fine motor skills. What’s more, we only disagreed on the best process to use about 20 times, so domestics were at a minimum. The process probably took 2 hrs, but now I’ve done it once, I reckon I could do it in 2 hrs next time.
Apparently the crankshaft has 2 timing marks. One for the 1-4 pistons, another for the other 2. Hello, this is not mentioned in the Haines manual. So when you set the camshaft timing/crankshaft timing to the 2-3 marker the engine just wont work, no matter how much you try to start it, blame the carbs, think you’ve blown it up or not put the block on etc. After 3 to 4 days you make call number 2037 and your friend tells you about the other timing marker. Then you realise you’ve got to disassemble half the bike again. Its funny how quickly the bike starts when the timing is right. (The bad thing now is that when you encounter problems starting the bike it’s going to be the timing and nothing else – even if it’s not the timing)
Also on the timing, the Haines manual provides a picture of what the cams and chain should look like when put together. You don’t have to replicate this picture. If you do the bike will start then stop, then confuse you, then have you calling your friend for calls numbered 2067 to 2101. The timing has to be precise, but what is important when looking at the Haines manual is the position of the timing markers, and the number of pins on the chain between the markers, not the neatness of the set up. 10 degrees out is not good enough. When you figure all this out the bike will run unless of course you have modified the fuel set up.
My bike started to run, in fact good enough to take it to a workshop, and pass its inspection. BUT after 2 good days of running, it would start to misbehave and eventually bog down. Being very knowledgeable, sorry I should say having a little bit of knowledge making me dangerous, and not believing the instructions on the DJ kit, I started mucking around with the jetting on the carbs. I had modified them to reflect what DJ instructed, but after a week or so of mucking around and call number 3054 I couldn’t get the bike to run properly. I got real desperate. I even contemplated just putting the bike on ebay. It was now 8 weeks since I had started work on the bike and my wife was now just a stranger I passed in the halls of the house and saw just before lodging myself into our (still shared luckily) bed.
In desperation I started sending random emails to people who had websites dedicated to these bikes. The most meaningful replies came from Mike with the Flying Banana. His Katana is a shining example to all home mechanics and his advice sage. Even with his advice I still was not convinced of any fuel problem as I had the timing thing firmly in my thinking. I bought more tools (I have spent 3x more on tools in this rebuild than on parts)
After much arguing (with myself) I came to the conclusion the timing was no longer an issue. If the marker is hitting the marker when the strobe lights up the timing is good. When the multimeter says the required ohm, volts or whatever are going through the electrical items, then they are. (Side note – my mate is actually an auto electrician but I called him less during this saga than at other stages – so I was only up to call 4017).
One piece of advice Mr Flying Banana (I’m surprised he replied to me because that’s actually how I addressed him in my first email - I was under much duress) provided was the critical piece of advice that I had not considered. Ensure the fuel line is free flowing, that is, remove filters, and have the fuel line the right length so that there are no kinks, sharp bends or ups and downs. I had seen on The GS Resources a fancy fuel line set up and tried to emulate it. All that I had managed to do was starve the bike of fuel. The bike would start, run OK for a while, and when you gave it a bit of stick, it would starve and stop. I would tow the bike home, then it would start again. It couldn’t possibly be anything I did I removed my fancy set up, replaced with a nice simple piece of fuel hose straight to the carbies and guess what!
I have a 27 year old Suzuki GSX1100E that looks a bit rough, but now goes like a cut snake. I have owned 17 bikes in 17 years, and this is my 2nd favourite (a zx12r will always have that No. 1 spot). I am amazed the difference the piston kit has made to the power output and the DJ kit has also worked, with only the need to raise the needle 1 clip. The bike looks cumbersome but with good springs and koni shocks it handles well.
Adversity often brings people closer, well adversity has enamoured me to the Red Beastie.
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