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I've had and said all those opinions myself a few times, and posted them here.
I'm not looking to do some artsy, or fugly bobber job, just bring the OEM tailpiece forward 9", and maybe a GSXR seat. Keep the OEM look and paint job.
I'm gonna raise the fork tubes enough to use clip-on bars, and that will likewise lower the front end.
As for what it is now, the seat is too long, over padded, crude and heavy.
I do feel bad about cutting the frame, but you can hardly sell these bikes nowadays, old riders are getting fewer in number everyday.1982 GS1100G- road bike
1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane
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Tim Tom
You could get an Airtech endurance racing style rear end. You'd need to modify the rear subframe to get it to fit, as well as create a new riders seat. If done correctly it can look pretty good. Depending on the seat pan, you may not have to trim that much off the subframe.
At the end of the day it's your bike, do with it as you see fit.
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This is a fine looking G bike. (Love this pic BTW). Personally I would leave it. Plus, as Rob S said earlier, the back seat is a god spot for saddlebags, etc, unless you don't have a need.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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Originally posted by dorkburger View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]43943[/ATTACH]
(Love this pic BTW).
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostYou want a better handling bike get something a hundred pounds or so lighter, shorter and designed to handle better. An 1100G is not going to be quick and nimble no matter what you cut off.
Get a GS1100E or GS1000, chain drives...Install GS1150 rear wheel and/or identical looking 1st gen GSXR 18" wheels (3.50 or 4.00x18 rear, 2.75x18 front, runs tubeless radials!). 86 gixxer I believe even still used a 15mm axle if you are modding GS forks with emulators and anti-dive deletes. Get some good gripping rubber. Swap a Bandit GSF1200 fork & calipers in custom wider $325 Weiss Racing billet triples with careful rake&trail triple clamp offset calculations, & width enough to clear the wheel spokes away from the massive opposed piston calipers. Or buy a VTR1000F Superhawk 41mm adjustable dampening cartridge fork and Race Tech cartridges for it, & Honda PC800 triples (plenty of offset to make for easy steering w/18" (& even 19"!) front tire without needing extreme rake steepening ) [CBR600F2/F3 forks & 2piston sliding calipers also are great but not as huge of braking upgrade but still drastic upgrade, 2 piston sliders clear our old wheels better with narrower triples like the 41mm CB750 NIGHTHAWK 90's 41mm model's192mm width, fits the cbr/vtr forks, looks to be close on the steering stem, if not a 1984 VF1000F interceptor triple may have a better stem length], $499 YSS Z-362 TRL adjustable dampening aluminum body 36 mm piston shocks in a length longer than the 320mm stockers (&test out their +10mm ride height adjuster for further rake steepening & trail reduction, steepen rake w/shock length until you get to 3.95" or 3.8" trail - very critical to reduce the trail from stock but not much below 3.8 inches or 95mm).
THEN...try that Airtech streamlining look rear end and a small nose fairing Mad Max (the original 1st movie of the series) style or Rickman half fairing. Superbike bars. No rear sets.
THAT would be my opinion on improving your motorcycle handling! And Keith Code book reading & movie watching ("A.Twist.of.the.Wrist.ii" on youtube)
Of course you can do all of those things to the GS 1100 G! aside from the rear wheel swap, you are permanently stuck with the shafty rear wheel. Longer ($300-$500++) shocks and dropping to an 18 inch front wheel if you don't have one already will be a big steering improvement. Much more noticeable than losing a few pounds behind your rear end. Avon AM26/Pirelli Sport Demon/Shinko 230/Battlax BT45 tires in the stock sizes for your bike or better the size recommended for your rim width by the tire manufacturer, everyone except Pirelli publicizes of their specs readily. I use the others as a cheat sheet for Pirelli consideration, fairly universal size vs rim fitment. Do just those mods and Race Tech cartridge emulators with race tech or sonic springs, and you will have drastically improved your bike's handling.Last edited by Chuck78; 01-27-2016, 09:58 PM.'77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
'97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
'99 Kawasaki KDX220R rebuild in progress
'79 GS425 stock
PROJECTS:
'77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
'77 GS550 740cc major mods
'77 GS400 489cc racer build
'76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
'78 GS1000C/1100
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Originally posted by Tim Tom View PostYou could get an Airtech endurance racing style rear end. You'd need to modify the rear subframe to get it to fit, as well as create a new riders seat. If done correctly it can look pretty good.
At the end of the day it's your bike, do with it as you see fit.
that Airtech look could be pretty slick looking. I would upgrade the suspension drastically before doing anything else though. you can save part of the weight of your seat and tail section by putting on high end aluminum shocks versus steel stockers!
honestly, I keep the dual seat on my GS750-920cc for the odd event that I may require a passenger, such as when a buddy (likely on a harley or dohc 79-82 CB!) breaks down, or random situations, and because it is really convenient to throw my saddlebags on and then even strap a backpack on top of that. And as also mentioned, it is nice to be able to slide further back on occasion, I often lay on my tank and slide real far back on the seat on long highway rides.
I don't know what I will do with this solo seat Rickman CR900 that I am resto-mod resurrecting with a GS750-894cc engine. make a custom clamp on luggage rack to go over the fiberglass racer tail section? with the incredibly long gas tank of the Rickman solo seat version, even with 1" riser clip ons, I probably won't be wanting to ride it even 3.5 hours (i.e. probably 5 or 6 hours the "scenic i.e. TWISTY" route) to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky for the dotheton.com spring thaw event.Last edited by Chuck78; 01-28-2016, 02:21 AM.'77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
'97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
'99 Kawasaki KDX220R rebuild in progress
'79 GS425 stock
PROJECTS:
'77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
'77 GS550 740cc major mods
'77 GS400 489cc racer build
'76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
'78 GS1000C/1100
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Chuck you just don't have a short comment on anything technical!
As for trimming down the weight on any production bike; well it's a process of eliminating many small things that add up together.
This seat change may eliminate 10 lb, plus it's a performance upgrade most people overlook; putting your particular body in the ideal position for track riding.
I upgraded the shocks and springs last summer. As for getting 17" wheels in there, nah, wanna stay OEM, production stock.
Might try a brake disc upgrade later.
I could probably still bolt on my luggage rack after this mod, but I rarely do any long distance riding.
As for why do this to a 1100G?, because that's the bike I own.Last edited by Buffalo Bill; 01-27-2016, 10:27 PM.1982 GS1100G- road bike
1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane
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Originally posted by Buffalo Bill View PostChuck you just don't have a short comment on anything technical!
Originally posted by Buffalo BillThis seat change may eliminate 10 lbs
Originally posted by Buffalo Bill View PostAs for getting 17" wheels in there, nah, wanna stay OEM, production stock.
Might try a brake disc upgrade later.
Oh wait, I forgot, shafty... stuck with the back wheel at least. If you have a 19 inch front, get rid of it and get an identical looking 18 inch front. this will help the steering response drastically.
Drop the triples a slight bit on the forks, this will substantially quicken the steering and make it feel very much more sporty, getting the rake and trail closer to modern specs.
Racetech gold valves in those forks is ESSENTIAL. Tarozzi fork brace is a very nice compliment if you are running it hard.
other than that, looks like lightening up the bike is definitely the direction you need to go if that is your goal to improve it further. VM33 smoothbores & k&n's will probably help you lose more weight than the seat project versus the stock carbs and air box, and will be another performance bonus. and a good four into one while you are at it.that is a drastic weight savings just to swap the exhaust. Then center stand, charging system upgrade and lithium iron phosphate battery. lightweight plastic LED turn signals. Plastic headlight bucket. Smaller gauges....
the salty monk twin pot brake mod is another big weight savings, drastic on the unsprung weight savings, and drastic improvement in stopping power! I cannot recommend this enough!'77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
'97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
'99 Kawasaki KDX220R rebuild in progress
'79 GS425 stock
PROJECTS:
'77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
'77 GS550 740cc major mods
'77 GS400 489cc racer build
'76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
'78 GS1000C/1100
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I dropped 50 pounds off of my bike without doing anything terribly exotic, and it still has the stock 77 flat dual seat and GS tail section, & very slightly lighter CB 400 turn signals. Very minimal custom machined parts, only for my version of the twinpot brake modLast edited by Chuck78; 01-27-2016, 11:53 PM.'77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
'97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
'99 Kawasaki KDX220R rebuild in progress
'79 GS425 stock
PROJECTS:
'77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
'77 GS550 740cc major mods
'77 GS400 489cc racer build
'76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
'78 GS1000C/1100
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Originally posted by Buffalo Bill View Post...This seat change may eliminate 10 lb...1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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Chuck you mentioned "charging system upgrade", does this eliminate the honking big stater sticking out of the left side?
That is a huge problem with the big GS bikes, the damn thing touches down if you try a deep lean left turn.
PS: I just purchased a seat from an 89 GSXR750, have to have it in hand just for a test fit.
Last edited by Buffalo Bill; 01-28-2016, 08:49 AM.1982 GS1100G- road bike
1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane
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Leave it. If you want light weight your starting on the wrong bike. Even though you mention you cant give 'em away, that's a really nice, clean one. Get rid of exhaust 15 lbs. + 5-7hp. Switch to 33 flat slides save 4 lbs + 5-7 hp degree cams. new longer shocks. Salty monk brakes.Get dynoed. It will change the drivability and personality of the bike like you would not believe. For passengers, get a Gold Wing, I may have to,she just didn't understand...Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple:twistedevil:, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES
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