Did this trip last summer, shortly after I bought my GS400. It proved itself.
Everything in the Koots is great. The scenery, the roads, the hikes and campsites (they fill up early so reserve if you wanna stay in provincial sites - especially Nelson). The recommended speed limits for the corners in the mountains are a pretty good rule of thumb until you get a feel for the roads - they can be tricky.
All over the Kootenays, there are hotsprings not far from the highway and easily accesible if you venture down some logging roads and amazing lakes to swim in.
I caught an excellent car show in Nelson. There is always something going on in there.
Road highlights - everything except the Coquihalla (#5) and the 97C (which I stayed away from and you should too).
The east side of Kootenay Lake (highway 3A) boasts one of the best rides in the province and has a ferry on either end (great campsite in Riondel). Usually bikes are ushered to the front of the boat so you won't be stuck at the back of the line on the other side.
Between Kaslo and New Denver (both quaint towns with good campsites) the 31A is a dynamite road and hosts the ghost town Sandon along it where a logging road branches off. After 14 km up, a trail along the ridge in the alpine offers a short hike to the fire lookout Idaho Peak. I took the bike to the top of the road but should have stashed the luggage in the bushes at the bottom. It's a rough road, but the view is worth it if there aren't too many forest fires (the smoke).
If you can ever get to the Kootenays this time of year - do it. You won't be dissappointed.
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