Fzr 1000

[niclpnut]

We go to Hearland Park of Topeka, KS.

hpt.com

[niclpnut]

The Kansas speedway is a Nascar oval, however there is a renovation underway which will include the addition of a road course.

Nic

[Tim Tom]

That is a cool bike. A friend of mine did the same thing, bought an FZR 1000 in very poor nick and fixed it up to be his track bike but still a street-able bike.

He let me ride it a little while back, my first time on a liter sport bike. Yeah it is fast. Felt like I was strapped to a cruise missile. Worlds away from my GS850 .

A picture of his for some inspiration for you.



For it being his track bike, he made the seat cowl, as well as the headlight covers. He hid a tiny little light in the air scoops on the fairing. He doesn't ride it at night, it was more to pass inspection . As a side note, this was a $2,000 bike for him, including purchase cost, and repair parts. Lots of time poured into it, but it's what he does.


Good luck on your project, you've got a rocket ship there.

[niclpnut]

Well, got these in the mail today:



MJmoto Gear swing arm and steering stem stand set.

I read a bunch of reviews and asked around on some other forums and for $100 shipped I couldn't say no. I know the pitbull stands are head and shoulders better but for my purposes, these will work just fine.

Now I can get to work on the front end...seals etc

Nic

[Sandy]

I love the old Yamahas. I put about 100,000 kms on an '85 750 and some miles on a '86 1000. The motors are bullet proof and once you get the valves adjusted you probably won't have to touch them again. Actually you'll probably only need to check them. They were one of the most neutral handling and easiest bikes to ride FAST that I've been on. Good score.

[niclpnut]

Got down and dirty on the bike the last couple days. (don't mind the old Wing in the background )

First thing was to get it up on the stands. Removed the front plastics and head light. Front nose fairing had a few more cracks that became visible as the plastic was flexed slightly upon removal. Should be easy fix though, and I'll probably be repainting everything red white and blue anyway.

The front was a bit tough since the PO had dropped the triples so far down on the forks.

I wound up having to take the front fender off first to get enough room. Front fender mounts were all cracked, 1 broken and there was a crack running the almost all the way through the fender. I opted to buy a new one. Found one on ebay NOS $70 shipped from South Africa of all places .

Bike on stands:



Getting the front wheel off kinda gave me a challenge. The calipers really sit deep in the well of the wheel, so I would up having to pull the right caliper first, wiggle it off the rotor and out of the wheel well, then wiggle the other caliper out.

Nuts and bolts needed a bit of PB Blaster to move.

I've GOT NO LEGS~!



Fork seals were trash, fortunately the chrome tubes are nice and shiney once they were wiped off with some W-D.

Forks have the same dimensions as the GSXR 750 forks of that era 50mm upper and 54mm lower. FZR 1000 are KYB forks and GSXR 750 are Showa. The inner slider tube is 41mm same as the 91-93 gsxr 750. They are a bit longer, more along the length of a GSXR 1100 tube The fzr tubes have preload adjustment but no dampening adjusters. The GSXR tubes have both.

Side by side comparison with 95 GSXR 750 forks:




I thought about switching out the front for a 95-94 GSXR but I think for now I'm just going to update the stock forks with Trac Dynamics internals.

New springs at a minimum.

Carbs and Valve clearances next, while I'm waiting on seals and springs to arrive for the forks.


Nic

[niclpnut]

Carbs and Valve clearances as well as a full fluid change was next on the list.

Pulled the drain plug and the oil filter. Oil was nasty black, but fortunately no fuel or coolant, so I'll count my blessings there.

Drained the Coolant. Was good and clean, but why not change it and flush the system while I'm there.

Pulled the tank and got a nasty surprise as Gasoline began to run all over my jeans.

Petcock plastic piece for the fuel shut off was broken, so no fuel shut off. Grabbed a bucket quick to let it drain out:



Got a new K&L replacement petcock for $18 again off ebay.

With the tank off I have access to the 38mm downdraft mikuni carbs:



Came off easily, probably do to the fact that the PO never really re-tightened the intake boot clamps Throttle linkage is a push pull.

Set the carbs aside for later. Onto the valves.

Have to removed the electric panel that holds the coils and loosen the radiator from the top mounts and push it forward to gain clearance from the front of the valve cover.

With all the wiring out of the way, and the radiator moved forward, you can now remove the Magnesium Cover. Loosen in a cross pattern evenly, and :



The FZR 1000 5 valve head (20 total ).

3 intake and 2 exhaust per cylinder.

I wont go into the method for checking the clearances. It's fairly straight forward.

One thing I wish I had was a set of Narrow or Tapered feeler gauges. Normal feelers have a 1/2" blade, but in order to get to the 2nd intake valve on each cylinder you really need a thinner gauge. Bikemaster has a 32 blade set and of course no bike shop or anyone around me had a set on the shelves. I finally caved and Cut some of my spare feelers with some very sharp sheers, so I could check the clearances. If you go that route, make sure the edges are not rough, or you are going to gouge up your cams...

As with most FZR 1000's the intakes were all tight with the exception of 3 which were JUST in tolerance. only 1 exhaust needs to be changed.


There is no Zip tie method or shim tool for this bad boy. You have to remove the Cams to get to the buckets/shims.

I halted after checking the clearances. Want to get started Early in the morning when I remove the cams and calculate the new shims, so I can hit up my local shop for a swap.


Carbs Next!

Nic

[niclpnut]

Got the Carbs broken down.

PO said, "Oh yeah I cleaned the carbs, but they need to be adjusted since its running rich."

Classic eh?

Every carb was filthy and had this black Sh*t in the upper part of each carb under the diaphragms:




Now it begs to wonder if it was jetted properly at all with the Filters and the V&H pipe.

I haven't worked on this particular model carb before. Not sure if these are stock needles or not:



I'm betting they are though. I'll have to do some more reading on these carbs and figure out what stock jetting was and how far up if any the PO has bumped up the jetting. Emulsion tubes look good! Nice and round, not oval which is pretty common with the 38's.

I'll probably go for a Factory Pro kit anyway, but it's always good to know what your baseline is.

SO...just waiting to drop these into the Ultrasonic cleaner, then will wait on reassembly till I can get some more info on what these carbs already have in them.

Nic

[niclpnut]

1100ES GSXR conversion temporarily on the back burner... Really want to get this thing up and running at least before snow comes!

Nic

[niclpnut]

Looks like there are 138 jets installed. Quite a bump up from stock outer 122.5, inner cylinders 125. So It was jetted for the pods/pipe apparently.

Look like mikuni jets. I know Factory pro uses mikuni, but not sure of the sizes for the kit.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Need to source an O-ring kit for the carbs. Wonder if Robert Bar would be able to send me a modified kit if I sent measurements of the old O-rings.

According to the boys at FZR Archives I've got Dynojet needles.


Nic

[niclpnut]

Got the forks back together. Decided not to respring right now. The bushings were pretty shot, so they were replaced with racetec super slick slider bushings. Cleaned the internals very well and with new seals and oil, they are ready to install.

The front fender was in worse shape than I thought once it was off. Had a crack almost all the way to the center and 3 of the mounts were cracked/broken.

However I found a NOS fender on eBay for $60 shipped from South Africa. So good to go there.

The valve adjustment is done. Wound up having to replace a few more shims and wound up having to remove and reinstall the cams several times to get everything lined up.

New valve cover gasket and cam chain tensioner gasket. Its all buttoned up now. New synth oil. Coolant system flushed and refilled. Need to get a new plug and overflow line for the reservoir though.

Took a look at the coils and one of the boots was barely attached to the wire, so I'm pretty sure that is why the PO was having problems with richness as one cylinder was misfiring.

Need to get a new jet kit. The needles that were in there are pretty badly worn. Wasn't sure if the Dynojet kit required drilling these slides as I would rather go with a Factory Pro kit. Got a new set of K&N pods since the old V&H pods were in really rough shape. The black residue in the carbs were from the deterioration of the plastic/joining surface between the pod mesh and the filter body.

Hope to have it back to a roller on Monday with more pics to come.

Nic

[Nessism]

Need to source an O-ring kit for the carbs. Wonder if Robert Bar would be able to send me a modified kit if I sent measurements of the old O-rings.

According to the boys at FZR Archives I've got Dynojet needles.


Nic

You can buy your own O-rings from McMaster-Carr or similar. I put together an O-ring kit for a Kawasaki 600 that way and it was easy enough.

Measure the ID of the part first. You want the O-ring to have about 1 mm smaller ID than the part it fits on (unless the part is really small like a needle valve). With the O-ring installed, the OD will grow by the same amount as the stretch. Then measure the diameter of the hole the part fits into so you can determine what thickness your desired O-ring will be. Again, you want about 1mm of compression on the OD of the O-ring.

Having the old O-rings to measure is a big help. Don't trust that alone though since the O-rings will shrink as they age and sit in the compressed position.

Viton O-rings are superior to Buna-N, but the later are okay. You will have lots of extras, but O-rings are cheap so it's no big deal. Maybe sell the spares on some FZ site?

BTW, Project is looking good. Keep going...

[niclpnut]

Thanks for that Ed.

I had some left over o-rings from a couple kits from Robert Barr. most of them matched up.

I need to get new o-ring/gaskets for the jet towers now. Bout 8-10 bucks a piece from the usual venders unfortunately.

Nic

[still_bluenoser]

Have you pulled apart the EXUP valve yet?