Help me figure this out.

[Agemax]

if it works as it does now, by hand then it should be fine. if you put the shifter shaft back in and then you find difficulties the problem has to lie with the shifter shaft mechanism.
could be very slightly bent,tired springs or even very slight damage or wear on the fork "pawl".

examine very carefully. if you say you have a spare motor, try swapping shift shafts or comparing both very closely.

[almarconi]

I was hoping to avoid buying parts since they are very pricey, forks are $69 each and the drum is over $350.

Before buying anything you really need to take it apart and see whats going on inside. It may just be a bent fork and the drum is fine. Until you inspect what you have its speculation. Something may be jammed in the gear(s) preventing them from turning.

[GregT]

OK - top has to come off first. Watch the cams as the locating flanges are quite thin - and relatively large diameter - so don't much like coming up angled. Locate the timing marks for future reference. Hard to find dots on the end flanges matching a cast line on the bearing blocks.
Barrel has to come off as there are several case screws under it....Yamaha are masters of the hidden screw. From memory I think there's one under the oil pump too but I may be wrong.
Once you are sure you've got all the case screws they split fairly easily.

While apart check the rod small end clearance - some are known to go oval quite easily. Selector forks bend too....

[spyug]

Well I thought i had this sorted now but a new issue has cropped up. I put it all back together and it is still shifting as it should but now my clutch is not working. It seems that the pushrod is not getting activated by the slave cylinder and that I truly don't understand.

The rod wasn't removed previously and the master cylinder lever was tied off so as not to accidental move the slave when it was off the sprocket cover. The push rod is not bound up and will move in the case, the push rod ball is in position as is the short rod that contacts the clutch housing.

I re-bled the slave and checked that its piston does move but when its bolted down and the master lever pulled in, there isn't any movement of the rod. I just dont get it.

I think this whole weekend with this problem has fried my brain because this just doesn't make any sense.

Thanks for all the input guys its been really helpfull.

[Agemax]

only thing i can think of is you have refitted the clutch incorrectly. have you missed out a spacer or thrust bearing behind the pressure plate?
remove the pressure plate and see if the pushrod moves when you pull the lever. maybe it is not making contact with the plate????????

[spyug]

Well I have the pressure plate off and have been trying to see the pushrod move. absolutely no luck. I've triple checked the function of the slave and pumped its piston just about all the way out then back in again. The master is hard but I squeeze and no movement at all of the pushrod, yet if I take the slave off and push it with my fingers while feeling the other end I can move it all easy peasy. Its truly bonkers.

As I mentioned, the brain is fried right now so after 4 days of farting around and wasting time I'm done. I think I will rebuild the slave tomorrow and put on the new SS clutch line and see if that gets me anywhere.

I'll let you know what I find.

thanks for all the support my friend.

cheers
Spyug

[spyug]

I did change out the old hose for the new ss line and the lever is now rock hard.

The slave still works (piston move out and will push back in by hand) when not fitted to its location on the sprocket cover but once attached it will not activate the pushrod. The pushrod,ball and short pushrod move effortlessly by hand bit don't budge with the slave cylinder in position.

I cannot for the life of me figure this out.

Any ideas my friends?

spyug

[GateKeeper]

something somewhere, is being blocked, or misaligned, or something,,,as per the diagram there is nothing to this system, or so it appears....

[chuck hahn]

Is there a little spacer between the slave and the pushrod that may be missing? Do either ends of the pushrod look chipped? Maybe see if a thin nut or something to act as a "test spacer"between then rod and the slave piston will yields movement..if so, maybe you need to mod it a bit.

No doubled up gaskets or anything that would impose a gap between the rod and the piston???

How does the end of the release bearing where the rod pushes on it look? Deeper looking worn cupping going on there?? My need a new release bearing shaft??? Is 17 and 18 an adjustment nut arrangement? slack properly taken out???

[chuck hahn]

Can we see a picture of the piston side that is supposed to push against the rod? Is there a hole or detent that is supposed to accomodate the rod end? If ther is a detent or cupping on the psiton..is it supposed to actually be there or should it be flat? Is it pushing straight in and not imposing a bind on the pushrod itself as the slave pumps up?

[spyug]

Here are some views of the slave as it sits in the sprocket cover. This combo is off the parts engine not the actual one I'm having trouble with. Note the clearance between the piston face and the cover. That would be the limit of piston travel.



You can see the cup in the piston in which the end of the pushrod rides. The end of the pushrod is rounded to fit the cup.

In this one you can see the distance between the piston face and the cover.


In this final one you can see the valve shaped short pushrod that touches the inner face of the pressure plate to activate it. Behind it are the nut and lock washer holding everything to the main shaft.



I didn't actually take the sprocket cover off the engine and try the slave cylinder in it to see if I can see any obstructions but I will try that next.

Thanks for your continued interest and support.

[GregT]

I did change out the old hose for the new ss line and the lever is now rock hard.

The slave still works (piston move out and will push back in by hand) when not fitted to its location on the sprocket cover but once attached it will not activate the pushrod. The pushrod,ball and short pushrod move effortlessly by hand bit don't budge with the slave cylinder in position.

I cannot for the life of me figure this out.

Any ideas my friends?

spyug

Did you change the banjo bolts ? Got one without a hole ? Are the new lines clear ?
When you bolt on the slave cyl are you putting a bind on the casting which locks the piston ?

[spyug]

Well the mystery has finally been solved.

This afternoon I pulled off the sprocket cover with the slave cylinder in place and unlike the above pictures there was absolutely no gap between the piston and the cover. It was jammed hard against it.That was the Eureka moment.

I realized the piston was not retracting far enough and sure enough while I could move it back by hand about 2 or 3 mm, it wouldn't go back further. Until I put a "C" clamp on it. The piston had gunk and rust holding it at almost the end of its travel and one squeeze brough the piston hard against the case and thus no movement of the pushrod.

So the next assignment is, as I had mentioned, a cleaning and rebuilding of the slave cylinder and the master cylinder too. No point in doing it half-azzed.

A big thanks to all who helped and encouraged me on this. I couldn't have gotten to this with out you.

cheers my friends.

Spyug

[Agemax]

well it had to be something silly in the end, glad its all sorted now.......

[spyug]

I thought all you great guys that supported me in this challenge would like to see the mess:





It all cleaned up nicely and the seals still look ok so I'll put it back together and try it out.

Well Adrian you were correct again and the silly thing is I could have sussed this several days ago if I had looked at the bunged up slave in its cradle as I had with the ones from the parts bin as shown above. It was so darned obvious.

Well I think I'll finally be able to get an uninterrupted nights sleep tonight, finally.

Thanks again guys I couldn't have done it with out you.

cheers yur pal Spyug