1981 Kawasaki GPz550: Restoration

[Nessism]

Why would the sprocket position change just because the cams were degreed?

[srsupertrap]

when cams are degreed....the factory marks are no longer exactly in the same place because of the slotted sprockets and the lobe center changes that was made.

Agreed, I will verify everything when I get to that point but I suspect the builder is off a tooth. I copied this from Corey's GPz550 manual so everyone will have a better visual to compare the pictures with.

[blowerbike]

Why would the sprocket position change just because the cams were degreed?

i should have mentioned "along with after market cams".
throw in chain stretch/different gasket thickness/head milling/chain guide wear.
i seldom had marks line up exactly on modified engines.
once you degree the cam's then you know all is good.
just saying....

[Big T]

So, what you're saying is that the sprocket can be one tooth off and you can "degree" the cam into the correct position?

I know you degree the cams after everything is all lined up

[blowerbike]

i'm just saying things don't always line up exactly...could be a half off front or rear.
if he put's a degree wheel on it and used a positive stop and find's true TDC...
his marks may not be off...if they still are then go a head and check the lobe centers and if they're close to say 102-105 then everything is probably lined up correctly.
being a tooth off changes the cam timing by around 10 degree's give or take.
maybe 8 degree's...maybe 12 degree's ect...

i'm not the best at explaining via typing...
must be an age thing

[daturat100r]

Good score ,should be a better bike with these mods,i had one for a few years but got sick to death of its narrow powerband and havin to rev it to death and changing gear constantly.
Dont change anything you dont have to ,so far it seems full of the choice stuff,but I prob would have(from experience, doh) degreed up the engine prior to disturbing the cams to get a base point to start from,too late now but goodluck and keep us all posted on progress

[srsupertrap]

I will work on my Z-1 order tomorrow, next I move the Mikuni Flatslides onto the workbench and spray all the linkages & screws with PB blaster to soak overnight. Looks like the none of the screws were ever disturbed.



Installed a new battery in the Mitutyo D/C so we can see the readout again and the intake measures 26.89mm.

[srsupertrap]

So, what you're saying is that the sprocket can be one tooth off and you can "degree" the cam into the correct position?

I know you degree the cams after everything is all lined up

I suspect that is the case with the exhaust cam considering it's current skewed position.

[srsupertrap]

Mikuni RS27

Made good progress yesterday taking apart the RS27. I carefully took things apart since I know of no source of supply for the gaskets. I will need O-rings but I will be able to run these Carbs. So lots of photos and if anyone has good stock of O-rings let me know.



The carbs were never drained. . . varnish in the bowls & main jets. Plastic floats probably none adjustable right?


Remove the plastic floats, looks pretty good. I break out the magnifying glass standard N100 mains (107.5) & VM pilot jets (32.5). The pilot is probably way too BIG



These were pretty stubborn but with PB Blaster they broke free.



After I remove the four main jet holders, I look at the throttle linkage



As I hoped the varnish had merely fused the jet needle and needle jet together. The photo below shows full travel . . . enough said.



NICE


Remove the float needle & seat assembly . . . O -rings still look ok



Take of the top covers, Carb #3 appears to be the master.



Remove the throttle shaft, remove the slides & mark them.

[srsupertrap]

This Primo impact driver always breaks loose screws easily and never screws anything up



Choke plungers were removed next



Top and bottom brackets along with choke linkage removed


Carb separation


Removed throttle linkage, spacers etc



Check out the needle bearings visible in this photo . . . Safe to Dip?


This cover facing the engine had tamper proof Torx screws which were Loctited in place. Lucky to get them out undamaged.



Got them off w/o damaging the gaskets. I will need new O-rings on that carb body below the choke tube (wrong term)



What a good mess

[srsupertrap]

Removed the idle air screws and they were all set at 3/4 turn out . . . this is after clean up.

[azr]

Good god. Those aren't like rebuilding a set of VM's, that's for sure. Looks like you're doing a top end rebuild on an engine I can see why you're taking all the photos. Sure enjoying the thread so far, thanks.

[srsupertrap]

I want to thank Peter (madmito) a brand new member on The GPz550 forum for posting the Moriwaki KZ550 Cam Installation Instructions. That gives me the valve lash to set both my GPz550 cams to (.005 to .007"). Second he still has the cams in the box (See Below).

If he measures the cam lobe lift I can compare that measurement to the 8.25mm reading I measured on the Moriwaki Cams installed in my GPz550 which eliminates the need to measure cam duration & determine opening & closing numbers. Then I can focus on degreeing the cams.





That's madmito . . . looks like Dainese Leathers

[srsupertrap]

I keep forgetting which way do DOHC valve/bucket shims wear over time? Looking at the photo can I expect the Ex .007" to become tighter/looser over the next thousands of miles?

Thanks

[Ghostgs1]

Hi Steve, The clearances will get tighter as the seats wear. Ray