76 KZ 650B1 ( AMF auction bike ) part 2

[chuck hahn]

Put 16 miles on the clock yesterday. Guess running on the bench is rather different from actually going down the road though. Carb 1 seems to have developed a periodic peeing of fuel out the overflow and no amount of float resetting cures it. Tap the carb and it will stop but starts up again later which leads me to bad float valve seats. Got 4 new ones on the way and will replace all of them while the rack is again off the bike.

More will be revealed.

EDIT..pulled the plugs to see what they could tell....REAL rich across all 4 jugs. Gonna be some tweeking going on.

[SVSooke]

Had that kind of leaking problem with the VM's on my 78 1000.The tabs that limit the float travel needed to be bent to where they worked again.No leaking since I did that and it was still doing it with new float valve seats and needles.

[chuck hahn]

The tabs are only in effect for the floats to not drop too far and let the needles fall out far as I know of. The floats should rise unimpeded and shut off the fuel flow if the seats and needles are meshing right...which is the problem here.

The manual says float HT is 30MM +/- 1mm. I TRIED 31, 30, AND 29 and they still fill so full the fuel comes out then overflows. And a tap stops it ( when the bowls are full ) but if driving and the fuel goes down, they wont reseat again and it starts all over again...see what I mean???

And the float hts getting too high may be the overwhelming factor as to why all 4 plugs are sooted up. 1 Even is so bad the carbon is bridged across the electrodes. This in just 16 miles of riding too!!!

[SVSooke]

Yes the tabs are to stop them from dropping to far but if they aren't set right they can jam down,then the carbs will overfill.Ask me how I know.Something to check while you're in there.If they are good then it's not a problem.

[Nessism]

Yes, sometimes those tabs get bent and cause the float to hang up.

If the spring in the needle is weak you can get some leakage.

I like to use a piece of worn out gray scotchbrite down into the float needle seat recess to clean out any roughness. Check fuel level using the clear tube method too before installing the carbs too.

[chuck hahn]

Did the fuel level tube Ed. Made lines the specified 3MM apart and that had no effect as far as the overflowing goes. Im on the shop computer right now and am gonna yank the carbs and bend the tabs as well as verify the needle and jets sizes as are stated in the manual. I am assuming the clip is on the enter groove just as is the case with the GSs default position???

[Nessism]

I'm not following you on "clip in center groove" unless you are talking about the needle clips (which I know nothing about).

Don't forget to clean out the float seat with scotchbrite. Some guys like to stuff a piece in there and spin it around with a slow moving drill motor.

[chuck hahn]

Im not even gonna dickk with the seats and needles. 4 new sets on the way so they will just be swapped out and then there is no doubt with them from now on.

[chuck hahn]

This is the specs page in the manual. It also says "IF" the jet needle is a " -4" that the 4 indicates the C clip position. These do not have the -4, but they are the correct ones according to the stamping and hat the manual says. Pilot jets are the right ones as well.

The mains are 102.5 instead of the stock 100. The needles have 4 grooves and the C clip as on the rd from the top so I moved it up to the 2nd from the top to drop the needle to a leaner position. No I am wondering if I should try it with the needle dropped 1 spot or also get the 100 size mains ordered as well???

[chuck hahn]

New float seats and float needles installed in all 4 carbs tonight and set float HTs at 31 MM. Service manual states 30MM +/- 1MM so I went the 1 over in hopes the overflow goes away. If its a tad lean when I ride it, I will know easily enough just by adding a little choke.

I did move the C clip up 1 groove on the jet needles so that should also induce a little leaner running condition. If it runs well and seems to be responding right the plugs will for sure tell the tale. Once this rich condition is solved the bike will for all reasonable purposes be done.

[chuck hahn]

With the assistance of Ed Ness, the clutch basket rebuild is underway. Thought maybe the hub nut had loosened a tad and the sound changed with the pulling of the clutch lever so I investigated it today. Outer basket had a lot off play. drilled the rivets and opened it up and the dampeners are shrunk up badly. Got everything else sorted though.

Thanks for the links and the email for the guy that sells the replacements Ed.

3.5 MM of travel on the gear......ouch!!

[Cipher]

Makes the myth of planned obsolescence seem viable.
Did they make a rubber cushion on the clutch hub instead of the suzuki final drive cush?

[chuck hahn]

Suzuki uses dampener springs that are on the back of the basket externally. Kawasaki used this rubber internal set up. Theres a cover that goes over the rubber pucks and was riveted on. I will replace the pucks and reinstall the cover.

[chuck hahn]

Ed...Got a confirmation email from that Turbosteve guy. My set of pucks will be here middle of the week.

[chuck hahn]

Using the screws mod for reatatching the cover plate. I have the tapping, countersinking, and cutting of the bolts done. Got some allen head countersunk bolts for the job.