Honda 87 CBR600F Hurricane, project

[Burque73]

Well this 87 CBR is 32 years ago tech, so glad I found very good radials that actually fit, that I can trust through the corners.
Would be great fun if there was a vintage bike track day organization, be on the track with similar performance bikes. Get to see many vintage bikes on the track.
AHRMA only comes to my track once a year, and I'm glad for that!!!
This talk has inspired me to register for the AHRMA roadracing school, will be at my track in August.

I saw this ad and thought of you.

https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/d/albuquerque-vintage-track-day-at-sandia/6901213532.html

Last weekend was an AHRMA meet and greet at a local coffee shop here. I saw some cool vintage bikes but didn't get to visit with many riders. I waited to speak with one of them but didn't get the opportunity.

My 850 isn't exactly the type of bike to take to a track, but it would be fun to go this Saturday and see the bikes at least.

[Buffalo Bill]

I saw this ad and thought of you.

https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/d/albuquerque-vintage-track-day-at-sandia/6901213532.html

Last weekend was an AHRMA meet and greet at a local coffee shop here. I saw some cool vintage bikes but didn't get to visit with many riders. I waited to speak with one of them but didn't get the opportunity.

My 850 isn't exactly the type of bike to take to a track, but it would be fun to go this Saturday and see the bikes at least.

The GS bikes are exactly what they want, the 450, 550 & 650cc would be the most fun, small nimble and quick.
The GS850G & 1000G both qualify; pre 1982 & below 1000cc. You can even put 17" wheels and radials on there, or buy Avon 19" & 17" bias ply DOT race tires ($250 each!).
No fairings or frame chopped bobbers.

[Buffalo Bill]

Took a short test ride, no fairings and no mirrors…oops. Ran well but the ride was too short to really judge.
Short because the PO put the clutch cover on without a gasket (WTF???) so it drips.
The PO also gutted the slip-on so it's just too damn loud.
I missed 2nd on the intense 0 to 100 test. I hope it's not slipping out.
Shift point is 11,000 RPM. I had it up to 12,000 with power still climbing.
Nothing below 8,000 just like, and feels just like a 550cc. Flat power slope, no torque. 0 to 12,000 is a LONG power slope.

[GS1150Pilot]

Took a short test ride, no fairings and no mirrors…oops. Ran well but the ride was too short to really judge.
Short because the PO put the clutch cover on without a gasket (WTF???) so it drips.
The PO also gutted the slip-on so it's just too damn loud.
I missed 2nd on the intense 0 to 100 test. I hope it's not slipping out.
Shift point is 11,000 RPM. I had it up to 12,000 with power still climbing.
Nothing below 8,000 just like, and feels just like a 550cc. Flat power slope, no torque. 0 to 12,000 is a LONG power slope.

And yet it will leave a GS850 in the dust down any road.

[Buffalo Bill]

Well, some electrical testing shows the stator is dead.
Decided to buy a salvaged OEM stator from ebay. I've been curious about these since the Ricks stator I put in my GS1100G failed sooner than expected.
It ain't new but they look better made than aftermarket. I can risk $40 to find out.

ebay stator…

[Buffalo Bill]

Ultimate tank dent removal

I've got a few dents in the tank, and I've thought about doing this before, but I'm a shtty welder.
No need to speak Japanese to understand what needs to be done for ultimate results.

[Cipher]

[Buffalo Bill]

Not so much invested in special tools…Harbor Freight sells an English Wheel for just $299!!!

[Cipher]

get one split them seams do it up

[Buffalo Bill]

Stripping the body

This tank is a good candidate for that method…
Aircraft stripper, really works fast!
So many dents, looks like every newbee who owned this bike dropped it on the right side…meh

[Cipher]

its not rougher than some on ebay get that wheel do a rival youtube vid put that japanese artisan to shame.

I wonder what fate befalls the dies used in making tanks. Is some enterprising guy in Japan hording them who jut happens to have no internet connection?

[nvr2old]

That Japanese gentleman is a true craftsman. Notice how gently he did everything. Even with all the hours he put into the tank..I'll bet some people would still complain about charging too much..lol. Most of that work could be done (albeit a bit more crudely) with a slide hammer. Not everyone is going to take the bottom off to get to the inside. I know I never have, mostly because I can't weld. Those metal files work really well for taking down high spots and showing where low spots are. Really nice work.

I noticed on 90% of bikes I've done, if there's damage..it's almost always on the right side. Strange, for sure. Your tank doesn't look too bad. You probably know to get rid of all the old filler before doing anything else. It's always good to see what lurks underneath and go with all new materials. I'll look forward to your progress, Bill.

[Buffalo Bill]

Well Larry, I'm considering those old fills to be stable.
The newer fills have been stable under the orange and black finish. The old fills date back to the original white finish.
I have a gallon of epoxy primer, I'm thinking of using that, this situation is what it's for.

[nvr2old]

I don't know, Bill. Paint stripper softens old filler and contaminates it, too. You even have filler on top of paint. I would hate to see you have problems down the road. It might be OK for awhile, but you might encounter problems in the future. You need to rough up the bare metal before you can do primer anyway and you need to feather out the filler that remains, so why not take the precautionary steps and redo the filler at the same time. Just my opinion is all.

[Buffalo Bill]

I don't know, Bill. Paint stripper softens old filler and contaminates it, too. You even have filler on top of paint. I would hate to see you have problems down the road. It might be OK for awhile, but you might encounter problems in the future. You need to rough up the bare metal before you can do primer anyway and you need to feather out the filler that remains, so why not take the precautionary steps and redo the filler at the same time. Just my opinion is all.

I hear ya, but I judge the old filler to be well done.
No need to fix it again just so it's done my way. I kept the stripper away from the filler zones.
Glad to hear your criticism too.
Wait until you see the side fairings, bike's been low sided a few times, large repairs done.
I'm gonna use a stripper for plastic bumpers on those, but only take it down to the original white paint level. That white paint is really tough, stubborn.
The paint levels from top to base are: orange & black, maroon, red, original white with white primer.