My Norton is taking shape

[oldGSfan]

The head is on, pushrods a bit tricky to line up. Timing side is done with the chains that drive the camshaft and magneto adjusted. Magneto is now replaced with a dummy housing that contains an electronic ignition.

Wheel building a bit tedious because of lots of misinformation about the spoke arrangement. I figured it out. There's a very slight offset for the disc side, and that side has very thick 8 gauge spokes. Trueing it will be fun.

I found some paint at the local Autozone that simulates stainless steel very well. It's made by Seymour. OMG where has this stuff been hiding? I really didn't want to spend $125 per wheel for new spokes, given that all mine were sound but tarnished. They really looked ratty but I think they came out great. I will do a final touch up with a brush after trueing.

[steve murdoch]

Hats off to you for tackling Norton disc wheel lacing.
Remember the woes my friend went through.

http://vintagebikemagazine.com/technical-articles/lacing-norton-front-disc-rim-06-1951/

Spectacular cracks on that K81.

[oldGSfan]

Hats off to you for tackling Norton disc wheel lacing.
Remember the woes my friend went through.

http://vintagebikemagazine.com/technical-articles/lacing-norton-front-disc-rim-06-1951/

Spectacular cracks on that K81.

That's a very good article and helped a lot. I got a bit sideways after reading "The Central Wheel Norton disc front rim (06-1951) is dimpled 3×1 and is handed." (my italics). Mine's an original Dunlop rim and it is that same part number, but the Dunlop has symmetrical dimpling, 1x1 I think it would be called. The hardest part awaits, aligning and trueing. I think I'll need a spoke torque wrench.

[steve murdoch]

I know he did both wheels on his Commando and even with a second set to copy from it was a very difficult job.
I was lucky enough to ride it about 10 years ago.

[oldGSfan]

Well, his instructions made it a heck of a lot easier. It's all good just need a tire and a new disc rotor. I was about ready to get my old disc 'Blanchard' ground at a shop nearby but it would cost 3/4 of what a new replacement floating rotor costs, so I ordered this one. With new Ferodo pads, a proper ratio MC and stainless lines, and rebuilt caliper (new seals and pistons) I am really hoping for a good result in the stopping dept. My old CB750 is similar tech and does OK, but the lever effort is high and it feels wooden. But it beats a drum, regardless. I had a single leading shoe on my '66 '66 Bonneville and riding 2 up was iffy.

[oldGSfan]

Mounted the disc and the 'bobbin' or rivet fouls the bottom of the caliper by just a tad. Disappointing, trying to find out the facts. Worst case I could trim about 1mm of aluminum off the caliper, it's not a critical area and is out of view. But jeez.

[Cipher]

Chamfer the caliper bit

[oldGSfan]

Chamfer the caliper bit

Yeah been chatting on a Norton forum and a guy did that, as I sort of suspected. Also need to shave the tang off the disc pad, since when it wears down it could also interfere.. Shouldn't be so but well, that's life. I'll post a pic on what I mean when I get a chance.

[Grimly]

1968 bumps against 2022 and doesn't like it.
Bobbins? They'll never catch on, new-fangled nonsense.

[Rob S.]

My condolences. I must have missed this post, but I have been following your current conundrums with the front brake. Pics of the spokes and new disc are neat, but shots of that custom Norton paint with a certain turbo big bore in-line four in the background take the cake.

[oldGSfan]

My condolences. I must have missed this post, but I have been following your current conundrums with the front brake. Pics of the spokes and new disc are neat, but shots of that custom Norton paint with a certain turbo big bore in-line four in the background take the cake.

Thanks Rob. Hey I have some goodies you might like. I will message you.

The seat has new foam and the base is patched with some sheet steel, rivets, bubble gum and baling wire. Well JK but it's fine, the bottom of the seat had cracks all over since Nortons rattle like that paint shaker at the old hardware store. I used 50-something firmness foam and cut up a yoga mat for the bottom inch. It's too soft, the place I went had 70 firmness and I blew it. It's OK but dang.

The gearbox is mounted to the engine, plates had to be trimmed a bit due to a special stubby electronic ignition housing taking the place of the magneto. It's all good, what a gorgeous lump.

[oldGSfan]

OK now we're getting somewhere. The engine plates and bolts are a ship in a bottle exercise and I messed up the order and had to back out a couple times. First timer blues. But having the frame on a chain hoist and supporting the engine on a furniture dolly on its side made it tolerable. I just can't imagine doing it in an upright bike, putting it in from the side. Much dinner for the knuckle meat gods!

[oldGSfan]

I've decided to go with air suspension

[steve murdoch]

Don't forget the nitrogen in the tyres.

[Rob S.]

I've decided to go with air suspension

I get it. But, truth be told, I was looking at the shocks at first, to see what 'air shocks' look like.

I've always been insecure, and needed an 'alpha male' type of bike, whether it was my Kaw Z1 or my Suzi 11E. But I would be grinning ear to ear if I rode that old vertical twin in any group of bikers.