2000 bmw r1100rt

[dpep]

I've posted about my recent purchase in Meeting Place and Off-Topic, but this is clearly the forum I need to post if I want answers to life's troubling questions like what kind of tires, batteries, oil, and gasoline to use?, what vendors are best for parts?, or which internet forums are the most informative and helpful? Another one would be if I need to assume a catastrophic final drive failure is in my future?

If anyone owns or has owned one of these model bikes, I would love to hear your experience on any of the above topics or any other you think a rider should know about.
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[marvinsc]

Can't answer any bike specific questions Don but it is 530 miles from here to my employers headquarters in Pella IA. We have several engineers and support people at the plant now gearing up to start a couple of new lines for a new product. One of the engineers passed on the company ride and rode his R1100RT here. Says plenty to me.

[tkent02]

I don't think the 1100RT has the final drive failures, the later bikes did, some of the earier K bikes had shaft problems. I never had any trouble at all with any of mine. The only parts I have ever bought are oil filters and tires. No cables, no gaskets, nothing. You could probably omit the oil filters, I look at my old ones and they never get any metal or anythng in them.

I run Rotella and regular gas, although at sea level I'd probably run premium like the manual advises.

It's not sensitive to tire choices, I have run Pilot Roads, something else before that, and just the other day mounted up some Dunlop RoadSmarts. They all work well when they are still round. The radial tire traction will be a lot better than you are used to, but they won't last much longer. Do not go past the wear bars, radial motorcycle tires are VERY thin at that point. Like paper thin. Both tires seem to wear out at the same rate. I always replace them as a pair, the fronts are just almost as worn as the rear.


Today:

[GelandeStrasse]

Another one would be if I need to assume a catastrophic final drive failure is in my future?
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I don't think it happens as much the forums suggest and if it does, it's an easy fix. Can be mildly expensive though.

[Buddy]

I have an 03 R1150RT and really like it. Betting you'll like that 1100 also.

The PO of mine used Amsoil 20W50 so I'm sticking with that for now but would run non-synthetic otherwise. I would go with a 20W50 in our southeastern climate though.

I tried a set of Continentals on mine and found the rear to be noisy. Handle good though and mileage seems ok.

I run 93 octane and non-ethanol when I can find it. Could probably get away with 91 and maybe 89 but no lower.

I buy parts online from Bob's BMW or Max BMW with good results. Max is usually a little less expensive but Bob's has lots of other stuff.

Don't know about the 1100 final drives but I have had to replace one on mine at about 36,000 miles.

Does yours have ABS?

Buddy

[Baatfam]

I use Mobil 1 15w50 in the engine, with Mobil 1 75w90 in the trans and final drive....

Ditto on Max BMW for factory parts...and most times you get a bag of M+Ms in the package...

Also BeemerBoneyard is a good source for maintenance items and sometimes used parts...
They sell filters and such of the same quality as the BMW parts without the high price.
This set of feeler gauges are very handy when doing the valves....

You'll want to bookmark this site: http://www.ibmwr.org/
Lots of good tech articles, including valve adjustment and throttle body sync.

Here is another instructional page for valve adjustment that I'll throw in just because it is so amusing...

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/download/OVADv2.1.pdf

Have fun!

[srsupertrap]

BMW Motorcycle Owners of America is still going strong and here is the website. Lots of services as I recall members will sign up to rescue stranded riders, house them in a pinch etc

Have a look below

http://bmwmoa.org/

[dpep]

Does yours have ABS?

Buddy

Yes it does, and it is giving me the alternate blink that indicates the system is inop EXCEPT when I am running on the interstate. I have not tried any of the suggested methods of resetting it as yet, but since it does not seem to be a problem at steady high rpms I am wondering if it is due to a weak battery which is one of the possible causes listed.

Service records indicate a new BMW maint free battery (175.89) was installed in March, 2010, three & 1/2 years ago. I figure the safe thing to do would be to replace it. I could then see if the ABS warning thing goes away. From what I read the battery is an absolute bitch to get to. I thought my 1100E was bad.
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[tkent02]

Yes it does, and it is giving me the alternate blink that indicates the system is inop EXCEPT when I am running on the interstate. I have not tried any of the suggested methods of resetting it as yet, but since it does not seem to be a problem at steady high rpms I am wondering if it is due to a weak battery which is one of the possible causes listed.

Service records indicate a new BMW maint free battery (175.89) was installed in March, 2010, three & 1/2 years ago. I figure the safe thing to do would be to replace it. I could then see if the ABS warning thing goes away. From what I read the battery is an absolute bitch to get to. I thought my 1100E was bad.
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Battery, I'd say it's a semi bitch, which is OK because they last years and years. Unless the PO bought a Walmart Special it should still be good. The entire charging system is like that in a car, like that in a BMW car actually, which means it should work fine for a really really long time. Seven BMW bikes now (and more cars) and I have still not had a single charging issue, not even a bad battery. They just use good stuff. Do the rolling ABS reset where you restart the engine with the clutch and not the starter, the sudden voltage drop from the starter draw is what takes the ABS computer off line. The reset should fix it. You should only have to do it after the bike has sat a long time, but not always.
In any case, you should go out and skid a little bit in a safe place, to get used to how the ABS feels. It is not like the smooth buzz in the brake pedal of a car, or the smooth buzz of the ABS in a late model bike, more of a wham wham wham of the brake releasing and coming back on in big chunks. It is much slower and more violent in it's action, and it would be really disconcerting if the first time you felt it was in a serious braking situation.

[Nessism]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R-1100-RT-low-miles-/380700335102?pt=US_motorcycles&hash=item58a3821bfe#v4-36

Bike is local to me. $4150 BIN or Best Offer. No idea when I'd have time to get out on this thing but like the idea of owning a long distance BMW.

What do you guys think?

[tkent02]

Mine is in better shape cosmetically and it comes with a free road trip.

[dpep]

Battery, I'd say it's a semi bitch, which is OK because they last years and years. Unless the PO bought a Walmart Special it should still be good. The entire charging system is like that in a car, like that in a BMW car actually, which means it should work fine for a really really long time. Seven BMW bikes now (and more cars) and I have still not had a single charging issue, not even a bad battery. They just use good stuff. Do the rolling ABS reset where you restart the engine with the clutch and not the starter, the sudden voltage drop from the starter draw is what takes the ABS computer off line. The reset should fix it. You should only have to do it after the bike has sat a long time, but not always.
In any case, you should go out and skid a little bit in a safe place, to get used to how the ABS feels. It is not like the smooth buzz in the brake pedal of a car, or the smooth buzz of the ABS in a late model bike, more of a wham wham wham of the brake releasing and coming back on in big chunks. It is much slower and more violent in it's action, and it would be really disconcerting if the first time you felt it was in a serious braking situation.

Thanks again for all the good info. The battery is a BMW one put in at
Daytona BMW. I certainly don't want to change it if I do not have to. But I don't want to ever have to horse around that 630 lb machine bump starting it either.

In your opinion, would I be just as well off to leave the ABS off? If it operates that crudely and I have 50 years or so experience braking bikes the old fashioned way.........?
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[tkent02]

I am pretty good with the brakes too, used them once or twice before, and I like having the ABS on and working in most circumstances. The thing is that you don't always notice the very beginning of a skid, the ABS does. The wham wham will wake you up before you even know you put the brake on too hard. If you are planning on braking it's easy to get it right. It's the unanticipated braking where it really is nice to have the ABS cover your butt. Overall I think it's a good idea on a heavy bike with powerful brakes, especially riding on roads with rain/slush/mud/broken pavement/wet leaves/snow/chicken grease/gravel/diesel oil/ cow**** or whatever other contaminated surfaces you may choose to ride on.

[tkent02]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R...a3821bfe#v4-36

Bike is local to me. $4150 BIN or Best Offer. No idea when I'd have time to get out on this thing but like the idea of owning a long distance BMW.

What do you guys think?

Ed, after looking more closely, I don't believe that's a low mileage motorcycle at all. Probably 115,562 miles, or maybe a lot more than that. It's just too beat up, way more little scratches and overall wear than mine with 78,000 miles. The discoloration around the engine, little impact chips on the leading edges of everything, faded plastic everywhere, the look of the exhaust pipes. The guys who buy these new don't tend to abuse them, don't park them out in the sun, they tend to be experienced riders and they are very easy to ride so they rarely get dropped. Most any new BMW will almost always stay very nice for a LONG time. This one isn't.
Be careful.

[GS ace]

If there is no record of the alternator belt being replaced, it would be prudent to go ahaead and do it. The belt is an automotive type and can be purchased at nearly any parts store for about 12-15 dollars. It takes about two hours.