1981 bmw r100rs $4995 al

[srsupertrap]

BMW's have become more fangled, farkled and faster over the years but for me this is still the one. Love the factory two tone paint jobs.

This will be gone quick

http://dothan.craigslist.org/mcy/4235971047.html

[winfield]

love the paint

[850 Combat]

On my RT, you had to remove the right side lower fairing to change the oil filter. This required the right head pipe to be removed. I sold the bike over that. Nice bike, except for the fairing. I'll have another, but it will probably be an R100S

[FLHGSRay]

I am far from being an expert on these, but I think that is an RT fairing, not an RS. Looks like a repaint, also. Trying to match the factory two-tone. Nice bike, either way. Always wanted an early RS.

[SVSooke]

Looks like a RS fairing to me.I've always loved the look of the old RS

[steve murdoch]

This one near Buffalo looks to be a good deal, imho.
Looking at the other hardware in the pics it doesn't look like he needs the cash.

http://buffalo.craigslist.org/mcy/4178848764.html

[FLHGSRay]

This is a '77 RS. On my bucket list, but the experts tell me I should go with a later year to get the improvements they made. The fairing is different, but that may be a model year change.



Edit: After taking a good look, I think the fairings are the same.

[850 Combat]

It is an RS Fairing. It has the same brilliant style over ease of maintenance though.

It isn't different - This is from ADV rider:

"It's a LOT easier if you ...

1. Remove the fairing lower

2. Disconnect hoses to cooler from the thermostat (need 4 new crush washers).

3. You'll know when removing whether exhaust header needs to be removed. (This means entire exhaust system.) Put back together with antiseize.

It's pretty tough to get the thermostat remounted when fighting attached cooler hoses and all the small clearances.

Understand about the "assembly screw" required to manually open thermostat so new oil circulates to cooler. Just start motor at idle to accomplish this, as all the "spin starter with plugs removed" stuff isn't required and risks damaging ignition system. This is why it's good to do this job with the motor warm, so the engine will indeed start at idle and not the faster rpms required when cold. This thermostat only ever opens at high load, probably highway speeds, and you don't want the cooler filling to occur at 5000 rpm.

Remember it's all aluminum, so don't crank down the filter cover/thermostat screws like they're farm equipment.

If all this seems a PITA, use synthetic oil and don't change as often. Try also to appreciate the "Zen" of it all.

Best bet, of course, is to join your local BMW MOA club chapter and find someone within that's done it before to come help.

PS: For those that haven't experienced it, this is all vastly simplified on the '87-on models, as the frame is just different enough that it's all really easy in comparision and removal of fairing lower may even be optional."

The oil filter is inside that right lower fairing. I'm not doing it that for routine maaintenance. I laugh at that, frankly. I sold my RT over it.