ZX10 -88, info where art thou?

[Guest]

Hi guys,

Since my GS1000G is kinda turning into a long term project ... and my BMW is for sale ... and the light of my life seems to want my VF400F for herself ... I bought a 1988 Kawasaki ZX10.

It is a nice bike. There are parts on ebay. I've found the shop manual for it.

But other than that, there is very little indeed in the way of information. I've searched. I am spoiled with this place.

(I found a promising forum, then found a sticky where a self proclaimed guru and electrical engineer "debunked" that jumpstarting an old bike from a running car can do harm because "volts are just volts, yo, and you can't push them into someting, yo" or something along those lines...)

I'm thinking smart upgrades and good tips'n'tricks. Anyone stumbled on anything of the sort? Or am I doomed to experiment on my own?

I know, I know, I should have bought another GS. I tried to! But the season started and the urge to ride got the better of me.

[GregT]

They are a nice bike. Not a lot of known problems with them either in street use. Kawasaki progressively widened the morse chain which - one way, drives the alternator,and - the other way, is the crank drive from the starter. because it has high loads in different directions, the tensioner is a good one to watch. The ZX10 still uses a narrow chain which doesn't give many probs. The later 1100 and bigger ones use a wider chain which does give tensioner problems...bigger is not better.
In race and heavy duty use, they can use oiling system upgrades. Street use not usually a problem.
It's probably worth looking at later 12/1300 brakes and discs too.

Enjoy.

[ART]

They are a nice bike. Not a lot of known problems with them either in street use. Kawasaki progressively widened the morse chain which - one way, drives the alternator,and - the other way, is the crank drive from the starter. because it has high loads in different directions, the tensioner is a good one to watch. The ZX10 still uses a narrow chain which doesn't give many probs. The later 1100 and bigger ones use a wider chain which does give tensioner problems...bigger is not better.
In race and heavy duty use, they can use oiling system upgrades. Street use not usually a problem.
It's probably worth looking at later 12/1300 brakes and discs too.

Enjoy.

Thankyou. I do enjoy it. And I will keep an eye (or ear more likely) on the tensioner.

Currently I have a mystery grinding noise in the front end. Will try to diagnose this weekend (but methinks it might be something not obvious -- brakes looks like they have been overhauled very recently, such supple rubber simply must be new, wheel bearings seem ok and steering bearings also feel real solid). Gah. Only when warm. In the morning when cold nothing in the city, nothing on the freeway. In the afternoon I do the reverse, freeway then city traffic. And as it gets warm, hey presto grind-klunk-grind-klunk-klunk while in the city. Can feel the klunks in the handlebar, and it is getting worse.

Ah well, dismantle-inspect-measure-replace until it goes away I guess. Front wheel has been bumped into something sometime and a new used one in good condition (with a better tyre to boot) was cheap on the bay, so maybe I'll just swap my trouble away...

[GregT]

Thankyou. I do enjoy it. And I will keep an eye (or ear more likely) on the tensioner.

Currently I have a mystery grinding noise in the front end. Will try to diagnose this weekend (but methinks it might be something not obvious -- brakes looks like they have been overhauled very recently, such supple rubber simply must be new, wheel bearings seem ok and steering bearings also feel real solid). Gah. Only when warm. In the morning when cold nothing in the city, nothing on the freeway. In the afternoon I do the reverse, freeway then city traffic. And as it gets warm, hey presto grind-klunk-grind-klunk-klunk while in the city. Can feel the klunks in the handlebar, and it is getting worse.

Ah well, dismantle-inspect-measure-replace until it goes away I guess. Front wheel has been bumped into something sometime and a new used one in good condition (with a better tyre to boot) was cheap on the bay, so maybe I'll just swap my trouble away...

Almost certainly a wheel bearing IMO.

[Maddevill]

I had an 86 Ninja 1000. Great bike. Mine warped the front rotors and blew a clutch basket. What killed it was a failed new riveted master link. Threw the chain and it broke the crankcase at the oil filler. Hope you have better luck with yours.

[ART]

Almost certainly a wheel bearing IMO.

Let's hope it is.

[ART]

I had an 86 Ninja 1000. Great bike. Mine warped the front rotors and blew a clutch basket. What killed it was a failed new riveted master link. Threw the chain and it broke the crankcase at the oil filler. Hope you have better luck with yours.

Ouch. Well, I guess it could be worse. I've always preferred shafts, so I've never actually had to replace a chain. Is it something a slow but steady home mechanic should leave to the pros?

[SVSooke]

Without an impact gun the front sprocket nut can be a pain to remove.Other than that replacing a chain is fairly easy.

[ART]

I'll have a go at it on the Honda. Changing chain, that is. I think I can borrow a fairly decent impact gun, and know I can borrow a rivet tool.

Once again thanks, guys!

[trippivot]

I had a couple of these bikes. loved them from the start. 88,89,90 ZX1000B 77 lbs lighter than the previous zx liter bullet.

intricate and elaborate body pieces . I love the trunk. balancer tensioner is adjustable and where they make noise and leak oil from. ( lwr rt side) it is a simple seal to replace - and you will replace it if you like a clean garage floor. I had to cut a piece off of the oil pan/cases when I installed a SS2r system.

one had a rear shock that went limp -- crappy air ride - has a fuel pump that you need to take care of also. I had an intermittent issue that left me stranded -- until I swapped it out -- faster than ever.

my 89 made 126 on the dyno. mostly stock just a pipe and jet kit