To KLR or not?

[marvinsc]

Also got it off the trailer today, it is tall, really tall as in raised. May have to address that ...

[marvinsc]

Licensed and insured, just need a little warmer weather..............

[JamesWhut?]

Don't forget you milk crate.

[marvinsc]

This one came with an "upgraded" milk crate with a lockable lid. New skid plate and crash bars will be the next additions.

[marvinsc]

Better pics.






Looking for suggestions for skid plate/crash bars.

[GS1150Pilot]

Major envy here.

[bwringer]

Looking for suggestions for skid plate/crash bars.

I have repeatedly and seriously abused and can HIGHLY recommend SW-Motech crash bars. Hands-down the best and strongest, period, end of discussion. They're also very well designed for access -- you don't need to remove the bars to work on the engine, exhaust, etc. The one issue is that the left bar makes it a little difficult (but not impossible) to reach the balancer tensioner bolt.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/sw-motech-crashbars-engine-guards-kawasaki-klr650a-07-klr650-tengai

http://www.whitehorsegear.com/sw-motech-crash-bars-for-klr650-all-years

They also make a skid plate that works with their bars:

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/twisted-throttle-aluminum-engine-guard-skidplate-kawasaki-klr650-87-07-black

http://www.whitehorsegear.com/sw-motech-skidplates-for-klr650

JNS Engineering also makes a gorgeous skid plate that works with SWM bars and covers a bit more, but it's a good bit more expensive:

http://www.jnsengineering.com/product/1987-2007-klr650-skid-plate/#

Tim and I are using Ricochet aluminum skid plates that were advertised as compatible with SW-Motech crash bars; they're extremely strong, but it took HOURS of cutting (with metal cutting wheels in an angle grinder) and fitting to get the damn things to work with the bars. If I had it to do over again, I'd just get a skid plate designed to fit.

Order now, because there is very little stock in the US, and it sometimes takes a month or two for SW-Motech stuff to reach the US from Germany.

Rocky Mountain ATV/MC also sells a ton of KLR goodies -- they're the only approved reseller of Eagle Mike stuff, so perhaps you can get everything you need at once and save a bit on shipping:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Parts-Finder/48/-/3735/2002-KAWASAKI-KLR650

The other MUST-DO along with the crash bars is an Eagle Mike drill-through subframe bolt kit -- make sure you get the one compatible with SW-Motech crash bars.

http://www.eaglemike.com/Drill-through-subframe-upgrade-kit-DTSUK.htm

Eagle Mike makes lots of other fantastic KLR goodies as well...


The drilling sucks, but go slow, go straight, and use LOTS of lube. I tried to get away without doing the drill-through, and you may remember that the bolts broke in Kentucky... I had to borrow your truck and visit three of the local hardware stores to get it sorted out enough to get home.


And yes, the famous Eagle Mike doohickey with a torsion spring is MANDATORY if it hasn't been done already... broken levers and broken and sagged springs are indeed real. I've done four doohickeys personally. One stock lever was broken, and all the springs were very loose. You can get a kit with everything you need from Eagle Mike:

http://www.eaglemike.com/Complete-lever-kit-with-torsion-spring-incl-special-tools-clkwts.htm

[marvinsc]

I had been admiring the SW Motech stuff at twisted throttle, think I will go that way. Re the doohickey the original owner told the guy I bought it from it was done. No way to prove that. I would think that the issue would have come up in 69000 miles if it was going to.

[bwringer]

You'd have to remove the side engine cover to verify that the doo's been done. One thing to remember is that it was most likely done long before the torsion spring was available. At some point, it would be worthwhile to pull that cover and see how much tension is left in the coil spring, or just go ahead and install a torsion spring if you really want to make double plus sure. No rush at all, though -- I probably wouldn't bother until I was really bored.


Looks like it's already got decent hand guards and what looks like a Seat Concepts seat, so that's good. Is it wearing any suspension upgrades?

Also, it's quite possible that the drill-through subframe bolt modification has already been done. Instead of two smaller bolts, it'll have a large (10mm shank, 8mm socket head) allen bolt with a nut at the other end. In that case, you could just order the longer Eagle Mike bolt kit that works with the SW-Motech bars and install that when you install the bars.

Does it have a Thermo-Bob already? The older Thermo-Bobs look a lot different -- they use an external thermostat housing that looks more like this. This is certainly optional, but highly worthwhile.


Since I'm just sitting here on the sidelines hooting while watching someone else spend money, I'll also mention upgrading the pitiful front brake.

I'm using the Procycle Warp9 rotor (lots of other cool stuff on that Procycle page too), and Tim is using the EBC rotor. They seem to work exactly the same. There's also a Galfer kit for even more cash. My KLR is also wearing a dual-piston left brake caliper from an SV650 with a custom adaptor bracket, and it is mighty sweet indeed. Even if you keep the stock caliper, a 320mm brake kit (along with a stainless braided brake line, of course) really helps a lot.

[marvinsc]

Per the book he gave me suspension upgrades are : Rear shock completely rebuilt including new Nitrogen, new rear spring and new Cogent Dynamics front springs, fork seals , new steering stem bearings. New brake pads all around as well as new fluid and stainless lines, rebuild rear master cylinder and a new rear brake rotor. Other new parts, Clutch and throttle cables, tires, bars and grips.

[bwringer]

Sounds like it's wearing some good legs already, assuming you and the PO are anywhere near the same size.

Sweeeeeet!

[marvinsc]

One of these days when it warms up (not in the next week they say) I will give it a test run. I'm thinking the raising link is not needed........

[salty_monk]

Cheapest way I have seen to get big brake on the older KLR's...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OVERSIZE-BRAKE-ROTOR-DISC-TWIN-CALIPER-RELOCATION-BRACKET-KAWASAKI-KLR650-/400804685605?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d51d22725&vxp=mtr

[Cassius086]

I have that exact rotor and caliper combination that Mr. Monk mentions above. Works GREAT!

If the Doo has been done, I'd still recommend upgrading to the Torsion spring when you get the time. Get a new rotor bolt while you're at it.

JNS also makes a nice front radiator guard as well.

I have the newer Happy Trails bash plate and it is very stout.

IF, the SW Motech crash bars don't protect the left side of the radiator, I'd recommend just getting an IMS 6.6g fuel tank. This gives you an extra .5 gal of fuel, nearly bombproof protection for the vulnerable left side of the radiator, and looks pretty awesome, too.

Rick @ Cogent makes a couple very nice shocks for the KLR (The MOAB & MOAB Adventure...MOAB Adventure is pre load adjustable only, MOAB has rebound or compression damping (or both).

I would recommend that you check out the thermobob mod. Better/more consistent engine temp management and quicker warm up times. I even noticed a small bump in mpg after install. Side effect of running in optimum temp range, I suppose!

Congrats on the Pig! May she bring you many romps in the mud and endless back roads of Kentucky

[marvinsc]

MSS.08.347.10000.B

SW-MOTECH Black Aluminum Engine Guard Skidplate for Kawasaki KLR650 '87-'0 Got shipping notification this afternoon.