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KZ650 Broken Engine Cover Bolts

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    #16
    In that case, if it was mine, I would have them make a stud out of aluminum round stock, clean the rest of the boss area off so its flat, and have them weld the round stock directly to the case. Take the cover with you so they can locate the new piece. They can also use the cover to set the overall height of the new boss so the cover sets clean against it....follow me???

    EZ outs are very brittle and once they break you cant drill them out as they are too hard. Ever see one of those wood splitters with the screw that screws in and the displacement force tears the wood open?? Look at an EZ Out...same conical theory except in this case the side force fractured your case. Just plain junk regardless of the material or application in my opinion.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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      #17
      Chuck and I gave you two ways to rectify the situation, but you ignored us and walked straight into disaster. Bummer. Can't say we didn't try.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        He wont be the last to experience the EZ OUT flucking Ed. I hate the things with a passion.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Chuck and I gave you two ways to rectify the situation, but you ignored us and walked straight into disaster. Bummer. Can't say we didn't try.
          Yeah, you're right Ed. I drilled a nice small hole with the right hand bits I had and since I'd used the extractor before, I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to try before I bought the left handed bits. This isn't the first lesson I've learned the hard way since I started working on my bikes and it probably won't be the last.

          Thanks again for the advice gents. I will see if the machine shop can weld the stud on there like you say., Chuck. Maybe they can thread it for not much extra while they're doing it so I don't screw it up again

          Comment


            #20
            Thats why i suggested take the cover. They can set the cover on and if it stands off the case a bit they can grind the new boss down till the cover is flush. Then once that is accomplished, a transfer punch thru the covers hole will mark center for drilling and tapping. Take the bolts too!!! I was a die maker for 22 years so I am familiar with the process....LOL
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #21
              The welder at the machine shop said it would be a little tricky, but he can do it. Relatively cheaply too. He wants me to drain the oil because he's going to lay the bike on its side to weld and tap. Stupid question from a noob: will draining the oil for a week or so cause any problems? With seals, etc.

              Thanks guys!

              Comment


                #22
                Good to hear he thinks he can fix it. I'd still like to know where you go and how it turns out/what it costs, if you're ok with that. You could even send me a PM if you don't think it's right to publicly plug or slam a local shop...

                As for being without oil for a week, you'll be fine. Our bikes sit all winter with oil only down in the pan but you could fog the cylinders if you're at all concerned about it. I like the Stabil fogging solution personally.

                Rode my ES this morning - 34F at 8AM, but it'll be a nice ride home at 5 when its 50!
                ----------------------------------------------------------------
                2014 BMW F800GSA | 1981 GS850GX | 1982 GS750T (now the son-in-laws) | 1983 GS750ES | 1983 Honda V45 Magna (needs some love) | 1980 Yamaha GT80 and LB80 "Chappy" | 1973 and 1975 Honda XL250 projects

                Comment


                  #23
                  Wont hurt anything with the oil drained.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I'm late to this party but wanted to toss in my two cents. Like many, I have never had any luck with easy outs and my success with welding on a nut had not been successful either. That is until I watched a Youtube vid on the subject. The presenter made a really good point, which I tried recently and it worked lickety split. He suggests drilling a hole into the stud first, then filling it with weld, then placing the nut in position and continue to fill in the center of the nut. The weld is then much stronger and you are less likely to torque off the nut.

                    He also suggested using a torch to heat the metal around the stud (which I know to do), using a penetrating oil and easing out the stud with a back and forth motion to break up the adhesion in the threads. The tendency for most folks is to try and power it out once it starts to move.

                    It worked for me and will be my go to stud extraction method from hereon. No more crappy extractors.

                    Good luck with the repair.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Got the bike back from the machine shop today. Forgot to take a picture before I put the engine cover back on, but he did a fine job welding my mistake back up. There was also another broken bolt in there that I had him remove, and he told me he used an EZ out to do it...

                      Anyway, the cover is secure, the clutch is working, and I will count this as a learning experience. Thanks again for the help.

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