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Snapped stator bolt,Gpz750

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    Snapped stator bolt,Gpz750


    Being down inside the cover makes it hard to get at
    So far I've tried:
    Heating with propane torch then PBBlaster.
    Slotting with a dremal and a impact driver
    And of course a few sets of vice grips all to no avail
    Thought about doing
    Left handed drill in my drill press.Don't think it will fit in the vice and I'm horrible doing it with a hand drill
    Having something welded on.
    I have an exposed stub,it really shouldn't be this hard.Other suggestions?

    #2
    If you could get a nut started (Properly on the treads or otherwise) You could weld it on the inside to the broken bolt. Let it cool of on its own and carefully back it out with a socket.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Oldman99 View Post
      If you could get a nut started (Properly on the treads or otherwise) You could weld it on the inside to the broken bolt. Let it cool of on its own and carefully back it out with a socket.
      No room for a nut with the lip let alone a socket,remaining threads are trashed now to.

      Comment


        #4
        Weld a bolt to the remaining screw to elevate the head in order to get a socket on it. Worst case is you'll have to grind it flat, center punch it and drill it out. Either you can collapse it in and save the original threads or re-tap it.
        http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
        1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
        1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
        1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

        Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

        JTGS850GL aka Julius

        GS Resource Greetings

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          #5
          friendly local machine shop
          20 bucks an an extra large double double
          1983 GS 550 LD
          2009 BMW K1300s

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by JTGS850GL View Post
            Weld a bolt to the remaining screw to elevate the head in order to get a socket on it. Worst case is you'll have to grind it flat, center punch it and drill it out. Either you can collapse it in and save the original threads or re-tap it.
            I think your first suggestion's worth a try for sure.I really am terrible drilling out bolts so that really is my last resort

            Comment


              #7
              If option on doesn't work and you find yourself having to drill it out, then the suggestion of taking it to a machine shop is best.
              http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
              1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
              1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
              1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

              Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

              JTGS850GL aka Julius

              GS Resource Greetings

              Comment


                #8
                There is enough nub there to grab with vice grips. I'd hit it with PB Blaster and then heat the nub with a torch until it approaches red hot. Hit it with more PB Blaster and try to turn the nub out, turning both directions until it busts loose.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                  There is enough nub there to grab with vice grips. I'd hit it with PB Blaster and then heat the nub with a torch until it approaches red hot. Hit it with more PB Blaster and try to turn the nub out, turning both directions until it busts loose.
                  Isn't that going to make the bolt bigger than the hole? I would think you would heat the aluminum or alternate and cool to break the oxidation on the threads?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have drilled a hole down the center and used a left handed tap and bolt. The left handed bolt will screw in and tighten..thus removing a right hand thread bolt.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                      Isn't that going to make the bolt bigger than the hole? I would think you would heat the aluminum or alternate and cool to break the oxidation on the threads?
                      It's about breaking down the oxidation. Lots of times when guys weld a nut onto a broken bolt nub the heat from welding does the trick and the broken shank turns right out.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        It's about breaking down the oxidation. Lots of times when guys weld a nut onto a broken bolt nub the heat from welding does the trick and the broken shank turns right out.
                        Yes, done that. Got 4 for 4 exhaust bolts out with my trusty HF welder(another guy's bike). Just don't recall trying to twist it out when it was red hot.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I don't think my propane torch will get it hot enough Ed.Don't know if it makes a difference but screw appeared to be a stainless Allen(hex head).

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by SVSooke View Post
                            I don't think my propane torch will get it hot enough Ed.Don't know if it makes a difference but screw appeared to be a stainless Allen(hex head).

                            Use MAPP gas. When you weld the metal gets pretty hot

                            Comment


                              #15
                              At this point I'll skip the MAPP gas and keep soaking it in penetrating oil for a few days.If that doesn't work and I don't really think it will it will be going to work to have a bolt MIG welded on.

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