Handheld diagnostics scannrs

[chuck hahn]

Anyone have recommendations on a good scanner to plug into newer bikes with all the EFI and other computer supported functions?? I was looking at some on Ebay but you need to plug them into a laptop tom use as the viewing screen..which is not what I am interested in. I want a walk up to a bike, plug it in, and look at the units screen to see what it says. Much like they have at Orielleys and Auto Zone when they come out to the parking lot and plug into your cars port.

[Downs]

As far as I know there is no standardized motorcycle diagnostics hookups like there are with cars (OBD2 for example). So basically what I'm saying is you're SOL unless someone knows of something I don't. Standardization just hastn't occured in the 2 wheeled world like it has the 4 wheeled world.

[Fjbj40]

Well, that sucks! Probably all proprietary also?

[bobgroger]

Well, that sucks! Probably all proprietary also?

And expensive. The one for my C14 is $1700.

[chuck hahn]

Sure would like to have one for the newer metric bikes...in some sort of configuration. Just a pain if i gotta unplug the laptop and lug it around

[bobgroger]

I might try the $98 Kawasaki one. Looks like a clone adapter and original pirated software "Use on computer not connect to Internet Try to update you break"
I need to replace both the $217 TPMS sensors and code them, although I will try cutting them open and replacing the battery first.

[gsrick]

They're out there, but they are costly. The shop I work at is thinking of getting one. Chuck check this out.

https://www.nhproequip.com/strategic-ms5950-motorcycle-atv-diagnostic-scan-tool

[chuck hahn]

Yeah..... 2G plus will not likely EVER be in my wheelhouse. Just one that would do the major Japanese brands would do for me. Maybe i could get a cheap laptop at a pawn shop to use as the platform?? First though i guess I need to understand what all the acronyms in the descriptions mean. Maybe you could call me sometime for a little Q and A. I would like to expand the horizons on what i can confidently diagnose and work on.

[gsrick]

Here's the rub. These aren't really needed unless you get into really late model bikes like '12 and later. Most newer bikes, you can use a paperclip in the diagnostics connector to draw out the codes if there is an FI light. I remember in Suzuki at MMI we used the SDS(Suzuki Diagnostic System) to perform a few things you couldn't do manually, like the later C90 you had to use SDS to adjust the idle. They can allow you to pull up a code history and reset parameters in the ECU to a point. It seemed to me it was just a tool Suzuki could use to impress the customer. You can print out the results in different graph forms that look really cool.

I just had an 06 GSXR 750 that would shut down after the fast idle did it's thing for 3-10 seconds. I did some internet forum searches and this seems to be a problem that others have had. Under 100-120 degrees and it will not hold an idle and when you restart it, you have to twist the throttle. Above it to full temp and it idles but on the high side and if you try to set it to 1,300 it would die. It showed no codes, except COO with a high dash, which usually means the TPS is out of adjustment. I tried adjusting it and no change, still COO with a high dash. Also once it's warmed up it runs like a BOH. No missing and no stumbling. If you shut it of, it will refire with nothing but the push of a button.

I have an 07 GSXR 750 I'm parting to part out, so I tried everything under the sun. I even changed the whole harness. Before i changed that i found out i wasn't getting the right ohms readings from the TPS, so I changed the pin connector out with the one from my harness. That allowed me to finally set the TPS to COO with a center dash. Still didn't fix the problem. Many of the forum ides were to increase the fast idle screw, "and that will fix it". No it didn't, all it did was make it idle higher then shut off a few seconds later. The bike I'm parting out started and ran smooth before I disassembled it and threw no codes, so I know all the sensors, relays TPS and secondary TPS and actuator worked perfectly on my bike.

Well after changing everything, but the engine, it still has the same problem. The boss is thinking about getting something like what I showed you, but one of the forum responses had one guy taking his bike to 4 different Suzuki dealerships and none of them could figure it out even with Suzuki's own SDS. I'm getting close to opening my own shop and I might get one eventually, but I don't think it will be a priority.

[chuck hahn]

This bike I got is a 2013 Honda CB500X. Guy unhooked both battery terminals last fall ( why I don't know). So this spring he goes to hook up the cables and he hooks POS cable to the battery NEG. Soon as he touches the other one it throws the big spark and everythings dead. He changed a bunch of fuse and now everything works except its not getting fuel to the jugs. Cranks,fuel pump comes on, took plugs out and theres park, etc etc. So Im thinking the PGM-FI unit has fried and isn't sending a signal to the injectors to open. But seeing a new I unit is $309.00 I would rather e able to 100% verify it and no just be throwing parts at it.

It will be old soon as I can get it to start like it should.