Ultrasonic cleaner solutions

[chuck hahn]

Seems there was a thread many moons ago and people posted solutions they used for doing carbs and how effective they thought it was. I searched a ton and cant find it. Anyway, i got a Chicago Electric ( Harbor Freight ) unit at a garage sale for 20 bucks, Figured what the heck...may as well give it a go at that price.

I was thinking simple green might be a good sauce?? I know its been hashed and rehashed but just once more to discuss sauces and effectiveness....especially ones that really darkened or otherwise caused damage to carb bodies.

[Nessism]

Simple Green Pro is what I use. Well diluted. The regular Simple Green is corrosive to aluminum.
Carb bodies will turn dark if cooked for too long. I'm not sure but it may be temperature related along with time. Most ultrasonic's have a heater feature so I'd turn that down some.

[chuck hahn]

Whats different between the two Ed?

[1978GS750E]

FWIW, I used diluted Pine-Sol (about 4 oz. of cleaner per tank) in mine and it worked well. I found that a stainless steel brush helps bring the color back. It's easier with a long bristle brush too! Be prepared to spend some time with them. My Harbor Freight cleaner took about 45 minutes on each carb.

[wymple]

My dealer just uses soapy water, a little on the warm side. Works for him.

[Big T]

I don't know the difference between Simple Green and Pro, except that Pro won't cause the carb bodies to change color after a long soaking

I use 1-2 tablespoons Pro in my 4 liter cleaner. Run 15-20 minutes, inspect, repeat until solution stays clean. Rinse well in hot water and blow dry with compressed air

The hotter the water/soap,the better. Mine has a heater

[Nessism]

Aluminum carb bodies do turn dark in my ultrasonic w/Simple Green Pro. I dilute quite a bit too. It might be due to the heat (about 150F.) Not sure. I just know it happens.

[roeme]

That would be this thread here, methinks: clicky. We've discussed some machines, and then some solutions.

I'm using the same solution as wymple's dealer; distilled/demineralized water with some soap, and around 50°C temperature. Never got around to experiment with other solutions/products, as this always was more than good enough for me: fire-and-forget for about 60mins, doesn't darken aluminium, and doesn't require much "pre/post-processing".

I've got a bank to clean soon; I'll post some current before/after pictures in this thread here then.

[Nessism]

Lime-A-Way is Sulfamic acid. Be careful with acids because they can remove anodize off steel parts if you are not careful.

Edit: not "anodize", zinc plating. My bad...

[Kiwi Canuck]

I have a 3L Stainless Unit, (should have got the 6L size.)
I use distilled water and Franks Special Cleaner, about 125 mil per tank and run it at 50C (120F)


After 45 minutes or so I take them out and rinse in very hot water, blow them out with air and then spray with Gibbs Lubricant.



The carbs do not darken and usually come up very nicely.

[steve murdoch]

Never heard of Gibbs Lubricant.
Pricey, but Amazon reviews certainly say it is a great product. Looks to be $25.00 or so on Ebay.

https://www.amazon.ca/Gibbs-Brand-Lubricant-2-12oz-cans/dp/B00AFJXIJQ

[Kiwi Canuck]

Never heard of Gibbs Lubricant.
Pricey, but Amazon reviews certainly say it is a great product. Looks to be $25.00 or so on Ebay.
https://www.amazon.ca/Gibbs-Brand-Lu.../dp/B00AFJXIJQ

Steve, I bought a case of 12 about two years ago, worked out to be about $16 CAD per can IIRC, a bit pricey but a little goes a long way.

Love the stuff, it's so universal, I even use it on my cereal when I run out of milk.

David.

[Spyder]

WAY back in the day, we would soak carb parts and bodies in acetone. It eats up everything but the metal. I would think it would do really well in a sonic cleaner. I am contemplating buying one JUST for that reason. I still use acetone to clean my carbs (LET THE RIDICULE BEGIN ! ! !). I would think the sonic unit would take any effort out of the equation.

[LAB3]

WAY back in the day, we would soak carb parts and bodies in acetone. It eats up everything but the metal. I would think it would do really well in a sonic cleaner. I am contemplating buying one JUST for that reason. I still use acetone to clean my carbs (LET THE RIDICULE BEGIN ! ! !). I would think the sonic unit would take any effort out of the equation.

Pine Sol works too and (reportedly) won't attack rubber. It will darken the metal a bit, old timers have been using it forever.

[roeme]

(...) we would soak carb parts and bodies in acetone (...) I would think it would do really well in a sonic cleaner. (...)

Not sure if I'm telling you what you already know, but you must take utmost care when doing that; also, if you plan on using a cheapo cleaner, prepare for fire. There are special EX-protected ultrasonic cleaners - but even then, a lot of the acetone will gass out and may find other sources of ignition.

Edit: To reiterate & cite another source (Materials Today; https://www.materialstoday.com/metal...ing-process/):

Q: We have a small ultrasonic tank, and we have a small-scale process. How long should we ultrasonic clean in acetone?

A: How quickly can you leave the assembly area? DO NOT ultrasonic clean with acetone or other flammable liquids, not even for experimental purposes, not even once in awhile, unless you use a system specially designed for low-flashpoint solvents. Acetone is above its flash point at ambient temperature. Most ultrasonic systems are not designed for use with flammables; the transducers are an ignition source. Playing “Russian roulette” is not advised.