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Clutch will not engage
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Clutch will not engage
Hey guys, today I was ridding my '80 250 when the clutch lever stopped working. At first I thought it might be a broken cable because there was no resistance when the lever was pulled, but the lever springs back, so the cable is good. So I took the cover off and fiddled around with the push rod. I'm not sure how it should be, but the rod spins freely in both directions and will pull and push with ease. So now I'm thinking that the rotating assembly is not activating the clutch properly. Should there be some way the assembly grabs the rod? Mine is loose and I can't see how it activates the clutch. Although I'm not really sure how these clutches work. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.1980 Gs250T- Passed from father to son, also my first build.Tags: None
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Not familar with the 250 actuator/clutch assy but it appears that this should push on the rod and against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch just like my 750 and 550 engines. This also looks similar to the actuator my Katana 750 engine. If the clutch is not engaging, you might want to look on the other side unless the rod is stuck in the open or disengaged position. I've seen first hand how the clutch basket can get notchy, causing the plates to "stick"
Please correct me if I'm wrong here... but this is the breakdown and it shows the rod #11 going through the clutch assy and contacting the pressure plate #8 - sorry tried to make it larger.
suzuki-gs250t-1980-t-usa-e03-clutch_big3IMG00901530_00c5.gif
Current:
1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
1998 Chevy C2500
1999 Rav4
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Originally posted by unfocused View PostNot familar with the 250 actuator/clutch assy but it appears that this should push on the rod and against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch just like my 750 and 550 engines. This also looks similar to the actuator my Katana 750 engine. If the clutch is not engaging, you might want to look on the other side unless the rod is stuck in the open or disengaged position. I've seen first hand how the clutch basket can get notchy, causing the plates to "stick"
Please correct me if I'm wrong here... but this is the breakdown and it shows the rod #11 going through the clutch assy and contacting the pressure plate #8 - sorry tried to make it larger.
suzuki-gs250t-1980-t-usa-e03-clutch_big3IMG00901530_00c5.gif1980 Gs250T- Passed from father to son, also my first build.
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It is possible. However, the only rods I've seen broken have been because of a chain issue. Purchased a 95 Katana 750 and this was what I found. I made a replacement out of a cheap broken screwdriver as it was the perfect size.
Rotate your actuator - is it extended when you do?
Are all the bolts in the sprocket cover?
Is the sprocket cover damaged in anyway ?
If everything is ok and no damage noted - remove the clutch cover and inspect your clutch basket and pressure plate
Current:
1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
1998 Chevy C2500
1999 Rav4
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Also - make sure these aren't damaged and in place correctly.
The pressure plate isn't damaged where the bearing contacts it.
clutch pressure plate.pngCurrent:
1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
1998 Chevy C2500
1999 Rav4
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Not familiar with the GS250, looking at parts diagram I didn't see a adj. screw. which one is that adj. screw? Just so I'll know the next time... Glad you got it sorted out, great to hear a simple fix.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100
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