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Putting Cylinders on Pistons - Oil or No Oil?
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sharpy
Originally posted by pete View Post
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Cheers for the tip Sharpy, I was going to ask how I should be running it in a little further down the track as I believe what I know to be wrong... which is to baby it the first 1000km's or so.
It'll be interesting to do that as I'll have some tuning to do with the carbs/pods/exhaust when I get there and I haven't ridden it for 9 years so I'll just be doing the on/off throttle thing in straight lines to start with until my confidence is up again I think.1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020
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450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh
Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
I've seen engines being assembled in an OE automotive plant and the pistons/rings/cylinders were assembled basically dry. All parts went though a special cleaning chamber before assembly, and the solution may have had anti corrosion and/or lubrication characteristics, but other than this there was no lubrication used on these parts. Does this mean you have to assemble dry? No.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Thanks Tom... just 5 years late1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020
sigpic
450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh
Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11
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Loads of oil, start up check no leaks and ride the arse off it change the oil after fifty miles and ride it normally, the theory is that it is the first few miles beds the rings in and makes the best matching, bearings just go round and round so nothing to see there.sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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JamesWhut?
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostI have always used oil, but I have heard some engines recently are assembled with no oil at all around the cylinders and pistons. I can't figure out any reason why this would be a good idea but it is apparently done sometimes.
That said, there isn't much point in bothering to assemble a dry hole unless you have a perfectly honed and bored surface and new rings. And with the oil jets on the plain bearing rods it's only going to make a few passes before it gets showered anyway. But I have never heard of a problem ascribed to not having oiled the bores and rings.
It does feel kinda hinckey though, stuffing the rings in the hole dry. I don't like the idea but it works.'82 GS450T
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Originally posted by John Park View PostThe best leak down I ever got was on a new piston and rings fitted to a new bore dead dry. The few passes it makes at low rpm as it starts up take off the high spots and there isn't enough time or heat to do any damage to anything other than the high spots. The motor ran tight and fast and raised eyebrows at the track; sold it with 12k miles on it still running perfectly. I also used to assemble VW motors dry and had no problems, long life, and great seal.
That said, there isn't much point in bothering to assemble a dry hole unless you have a perfectly honed and bored surface and new rings. And with the oil jets on the plain bearing rods it's only going to make a few passes before it gets showered anyway. But I have never heard of a problem ascribed to not having oiled the bores and rings.
It does feel kinda hinckey though, stuffing the rings in the hole dry. I don't like the idea but it works.
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Originally posted by pete View PostThanks Tom... just 5 years late
How are your pistons holding up?
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Hahaha all good
They seem to be just fine... getting close to 50,000km's since the rebuild and been back on the road nearly 4 and a half years now...1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020
sigpic
450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh
Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11
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Originally posted by pete View PostSee that's what I figured, which is why I couldn't understand the whole assemble it dry thing, but probably 99% of posters on here know more than I about this sort of thing, so I must ask...
You turn the engine over relatively slowly for three or four turns, kickstart or starter motor - dry.
Put oil down the bores and do the same.
Then start it up.
I had success with a few engines doing that, and I explained the procedure to a friend.
Next time I met him he complained that the piston rings on his newly-assembled XL500 were like corkscrews after he'd STARTED AND RAN IT UP bone dry.
Hardly surprising, really.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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I think you would get a lot more pressure on the rings with the thing firing; turning it over with the plugs out would be rather useless as the spring pressure of the rings is so feeble. Compression pressure is probably the safest method.
You also don't want to 'run it up' for maybe a minute. I always like to turn it over on the starter until the oil light goes out if it's been sitting or assembled. Your method - especially on a roller bearing engine that has far less pressure and flow to the rods - is safe and easy. The tendency for dirt riders to be throttle blippers seems to be either congenital or a leftover from the two stroke era.
I think the theory is that the cross hatch honing presents a pattern of ridges which are scraped down to a level surface; the remaining valleys are lateral and don't leak, but act as a reservoir for oil droplets. A perfect mirror surface doesn't work as well.'82 GS450T
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