Question about leaky gasket...

[mothra]

(Oh... Its an '83 GS450L... )
So I have been slowly working my way up on the maintenance of my new bike. But I do have a few questions if I may:

One is the Petcock valve movement, its is completely frozen. I loosened it up a bit with the good old WD-40 trick, and you can adjust it but it still requires a lot of force. Seams to be gummed up a bit, but it does work. I have had zero issues with the valve (good vacuum and it works in all positions). I generally would leave it alone, but I discovered that it was stuck when going on a longish ride to the springs and needing the reserve. Lucky I had some WD-40 and the wrench in the bag to pull off and switch it to reserve. I didn't even think about the distance I had gone and was actually half planing to see what kind of mileage I got on the tank. Pretty good, but I would still have to pull off and use a tool to switch the petcock valve. Is that something that you can pull apart? Anyone loosened it up successfully, and kept it from binding again? Aside from not being able to switch it, there isn't really any problems. I don't intend on using it, but the prospect of having to pull off and mess with it is not confidence inspiring. Minor but something I would like to tackle this winter in the off season. The valve action of the petcock is working fine, in each position.

Also the fuel gauge is a little erratic. Is has the correct reading most of the time, but occasionally it sticks on empty or half full. However so far there is no rust in the tank that is visible, either in the gas in the tank or in the tank itself nor the recently checked carb. So is this an electrical "issue" with the gauge?

Another is the Fork seals. They were somewhat dry but the seamed to have swelled back up. The forks feel fine, they are a little soft, but then again the feel better then the learning bike I rode so better then average? Is it still worth replacing the fork seals? I'd probably need to order just about everything to start to tackle that job. Is that worth doing, I am not really good at judging. I have also not managed to find it a glaring issue while riding like damn these are some soft forks or anything like that. The first week of light riding, some oil did appear around the top of the forks, but after a week of riding, there wasn't much oil lost and the problem went away quickly, and no more oil rings have appeared. Is this something that I should just do anyway?


One last issue cropped up just in the last week. Seams that I blew a seal on the Cam Chain Tensioner? The leak is dripping off of the bottom engine mounting bolt on the assembly. Its not a big leak, but a leak none the less. Is that something that is really tricky (easier or harder then forks..)? Should I do any other seals as well? I saw a rebuild engine gasket kit that included the seal, and also an entire replacement assembly, but not the seal itself. How do you know for sure that you have a cam chain tight, and your tensioner is installed correctly? Here is a picture to confirm that I am talking about the part I am seeing, correctly and of the leak.




Oh and one last thing. I have had a hell of a time getting used to the clutch. The cable was really really stiff, and the guy wrenching on the bike installed some seriously strong clutch springs on the thing, and they were a huge pain, but it was smooth. They were so tight that my hand hurt riding the first time. But I could engage the clutch smoothly. The mechanic adjusted my chain and also lubed the clutch cable. The cable movement loosed up from being so stiff, so it was still stiff but not as bad. Then a few days later, it seems that the clutch cable is binding. The clutch is pretty smooth, but when you are really squeezing the clutch down it doesn't like to go into first, like its still partially engaged. Also when you smoothly let off of the clutch you get a nice smooth start, all the way to about half engaged, then all of a sudden the cable binds up and releases quickly and the clutch responds with a nice jerk motion in your turn. Almost like the slack in the cable is sucked back in to quickly like you poped the clutch, while you are holding it. I can hold it about 3/4 out and the clutch will slowly wind out to fully engaged. In the middle of the friction zone with about 2500 RPM's all of a sudden the clutch will just go from partial to fully engaged and it really takes a lot of effort to smoothly start out as opposed to where it was stiff but smooth. Is that just me being a noob with a new friction zone? Or do I need to adjust the clutch again. I mean it went from I had a handle on it pretty well with a few rough starts to really just stalling the bike every start. And I did use old clutches on dirt bikes and ATV's before with out so much trouble with starting out. Its a full 4 finger death grip squeeze to take that clutch in and out. Even my knee from time to time has hit the tank trying to squeeze that in.

Aside from that I have not really seen any issues. I have commuted to school and work on the bike and went for several joy rides since I got it. None of these issues are so bad that the bike is unridable. The bike seems to be well adjusted, smooth idle and easy starting. A real nice joy to ride around on. I am hooked. Well OK its an older bike, with some minor things to do before the next season. I am pretty positive that the valves are in spec, But I also have no way to check them currently. I am suck a noob. But willing to try anything.

Sorry for so many questions. Thanks in advance.

[tom203]

Wow, long post - I might need more beer! Put your bike model/year in your signature to save us.It's 450L, right? Anyways, working your way up maintenance stuff, you must have noticed valve clearance check, so how can you be sure they are ok, if you don't actually check them? This could lead to a disaster, so get to it! Just buy a new petcock for next season and stop worrying about it; and while you're changing petcock, check the tank fuel sending element- it could be gummed up and sticking at times. The fork seals might be ok. The cam tensioner removal and reinstall has been discussed alot lately- no big deal, probably easy on twin- do a search and/or visit Basscliff's site. I think I replied 3 times last week regarding tensioner!
Others will chime in about clutch- yours sounds ridiculous with the wrong springs- clutch operation should be smooth and NOT reguire such effort!

[mothra]

Yea sorry about my long post!

I had lots of questions in all of my excitement...

Ok ok ok......I will check valve clearance, I have noticed a lot of posts on that topic, and I did pick up a service manual for the bike. It doesn't look quite as daunting as it first sounded, and I would probably have to verify the cam position after changing out the tensioner seal anyhow so what the heck, I will kill two birds with one stone.

I did puck up some new signal indicators in the rear, and a replacement for the front as well as some mirrors. I got the mirrors installed and just discovered where the other turn signal relay was so I am going to get to those next.

I'll post some pictures after I install those if you want.

I took the clutch mechanism apart, and went through the cable adjustment procedures, and found a pinched cable, I replaced the cable with a new one this afternoon and it is stiff but workable. I may swap out the clutch springs (I see them!) later on if its still to stiff. Either that or have a really strong left hand But riding around was MUCH smoother, which is what I was hoping for.

Thanks for your advice. I have done a lot of electronics/electrical work in my day, but have very little mechanical experience (minus an 88 Saab which was more work then fun). So the advice and tips are always appreciated.

[tom203]

If you've worked on Saabs, the suzuki will be a breeze! Good idea to check cam timing while you're checking valves and fiddling with tensioner-you never know what the PO or his mechanix has screwed up.
The tensioner is so simple it confuses some people. In your pic, you see a lock screw held in place by lock nut. The lock screw is there to facilitate removal and reinstall - otherwise it's BACKED off from a sliding shaft so the tensioner can push against the chain. This will all become obvious when you remove it and hold in in your hand. To remove it, just loosen lock nut and tighten lock screw on shaft ( probably will take 1 turn) to hold stuff together while you pull out tensioner assembly.

[mothra]

Ok, so this long weekend I got the electrical sorted out. tested the R/R and Stator, all checked out just fine for the time being. Replaced some of the frayed wiring that I found, and also installed my new lights and mirrors. I went with stock signals and squared mirrors, they were out of the rounded mirrors and I didn't like the placement of the round mirrors any how. The rear lights were tricky because the ground cables were not included, nor were the bolts, so a trip to the hardware store yielded some more connectors, wire, and bolts. The guy at the hardware store found it funny that we were looking for metric bolts for a blinker assembly. I created some new ground harnesses for each rear light, and wired it up to the frame relay ground. After getting it all together, the left side worked, and the right side didn't. Turns out that the bike in fact would like the right front to be grounded to the lamp assembly, and the light I got as a stock replacement had the bulb going straight into the ground inside of the head lamp. This didn't cause enough impedance to trigger the relay, so another lamp assembly ground was fabricated and spliced onto the bulb ground. Thankfully the blinker relay worked. Now all of my lights are installed and they all work

So of course I have to show off my handy work...





Anyhow I think that tires are next.... These tires were obviously under inflated for some time. The front seems OK, the rear has a crack forming on the side wall (yea "fun"). Id rather play it save and just replace both. Plus these have "ripples" in them that love to grab at seams in the road (especially that narrow center one on the cement roads) and tug you in. Very annoying. Tires next for sure...

I have more questions!!!

Where do you like to get gaskets? I can not track down the Tensioner Adjuser Gasket gasket that is leaking. I found a gasket rebuild kit for the entire engine which (hopefully) contains the leaky one I need... Its on Bike Bandit for over $100 thats kind of expensive for jus tone gasket that is leaking, but is it worth it to get the top end gasket or just replace them all. That task seems a little daunting. So far I have not found anyone local to order that from. Also needed, is the shim thing a majig that measure the shim thickness. That's about it for the time being... LOL Thanks for your help and pointing me in the right direction.

[cowboyup3371]

I picked up mine from my local shop but you can check out any of the vendors in Basscliff's mega-welcome. If it's just your cam chain tensioner than no you don't need to replace any others. But, you should be doing a valve adjustment so that gasket is also needed pretty soon as well as the half moons.

And again, throw your bike information into your signature block. It will help us help you better.

[mothra]

Hey,

Thanks for all of your advice on here. I have been reading through the tutorials and threads on how to adjust the shim valves, and I feel a little better about it now. I didn't find the half moons except for a picture of them in the service manual, with of course no indication about what they are. Maybe they have a description somewhere else. In either case, I guess we will find them when we take off the cover. Ordered up a few more parts, a clutch cable, which I find sticky, and a tach cable that was starting to wine a bit, as well as my leaky gakset! WHOOT! Found the shim feeler gauges online, as well as a few odds and ends here and there that I needed/wanted to fix it up. I am preparing for some bike down time to work on those shims and suspect that I may need another gasket and some other seals and stuff which I will order with the shims.

Do you guys use Torqe wrenches? I hear mixed things, but also I have a neanderthal tendency when it comes to tightening bolts :-P

Have been riding around enjoying. Gotten a few complements on my new bike as well. In fact went riding with some friends over the weekend and their newer bikes didn't gather so many complements and attention :-D One has a beautiful R1 and the other a Harley Sportster. LOL Maybe they won't let me go with them on any more trips...

I did sort out my clutch issues, turns out that A, replacing the oil with Rotella as suggested helped tremendously on the noise and clutch slop. Also I adjusted the chain which was tightened in theory, but was in fact loose again after just one day (didn't tighten the axle crown bolt enough when they did it???), saved myself some bucks, and it was easy to do. This actually helped my clutch out a BUNCH. Wow what a difference, and it took 15 minutes. :-P Now I am sad that I paid some one else to work on it. I noticed the chain was too loose when riding around and it actually hit against the frame and chain housing... Yikes. Well needless to say it was time to start working on my bike myself anyhow. And what a difference the chain in spec would make (Keep in mind that I went from way to loose, to semi tight, to wow its about to fall off) carefully going though the service manual and some pointers made a world of difference. That and I am used to the tension springs :-D

I am sure I have more questions. Oh well guess its back to the HW grind YEA Accounting!

[7981GS]

I have successfully sealed the cam chain tensioner with just using Ultra-Copper Permatex. No gasket.

Daniel