Clutch Oil Seal ID on 1980 GS450

[snark]

The chutch push rod seal will normally drip right under the shifter lever...right onto the ground. You don't want the flange type...that has to go in from the back. You want the service replacement Suzuki pn 09285-06011 which can go in from the front. You may want to change the shifter seal while you're at it...also very easy to do.

Use a thin drywall screw and pull the seal. Almost as soon as the screw gets a bite it will pull out.

Put the new seal in place and use a piece of pipe with the old seal on the end (to protect the new seal) to drive it home. It is super easy to change.

[apopleptic]

Are these pictures from before you cleaned up this area? If not, clean it up real good and then run it for five miles or so. Then you can see where the leak is coming from.

I'm still degreasing. The gunk was more than an inch deep in quite a few spots. actually scrubbing it but hard to get the nooks and crannies. Hopefully all cleaned by tomorrow.

[Barneycanoe]

Clutch pushrod problem

Ok, 1979 425E. Clutch pushrod is worn where it comes through case, Got a groove round the shaft of probably 1-2mm. I replaced the seal but when you activate the clutch pushrod with the engine running oil comes out at a fair dripping rate.

Bike Bandit does not show the pushrod as being available.

I think my options are these:

1 try JB Weld on the grooved part and then sand round.
2 remove pushrod and get someone to weld metal on and then turn down to proper diameter.

But it looks like I have to take the pushrod out of the right side of the engine. Is that necessary? - I can do it but I hate to muck with the points of a perfectly tuned bike.

Cheers

Dave

[apopleptic]

OK, 1979 425E. Clutch push rod is worn where it comes through case, Got a groove round the shaft of probably 1-2mm. I replaced the seal but when you activate the clutch push rod with the engine running oil comes out at a fair dripping rate.

Bike Bandit does not show the push rod as being available.

I think my options are these:

1 try JB Weld on the grooved part and then sand round.
2 remove push rod and get someone to weld metal on and then turn down to proper diameter.

But it looks like I have to take the push rod out of the right side of the engine. Is that necessary? - I can do it but I hate to muck with the points of a perfectly tuned bike.

Cheers

Dave

Wow, this needs it's own thread. An entirely valid question that deserves more attention than it will receive in here.
If you are talking about part 20 below it looks like you would need to remove the right cover since the end of the rod is threaded.
hopefully someone else will have more to chime in, but again I suggest you start a new thread. worst case scenario you get answers in two places you need to read.
BTW, Alpha Sports http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm says they have this part in stock for 29.50 plus shipping. and through google I was able to find out the part number was superseded by another 23110-44003 which may help you find the part you need.

[snark]

Ok, 1979 425E. Clutch pushrod is worn where it comes through case, Got a groove round the shaft of probably 1-2mm. I replaced the seal but when you activate the clutch pushrod with the engine running oil comes out at a fair dripping rate.

Bike Bandit does not show the pushrod as being available.

I think my options are these:

1 try JB Weld on the grooved part and then sand round.
2 remove pushrod and get someone to weld metal on and then turn down to proper diameter.

But it looks like I have to take the pushrod out of the right side of the engine. Is that necessary? - I can do it but I hate to muck with the points of a perfectly tuned bike.

Cheers

Dave

Here is the parts fiche from the dealer I go to. They have the rod listed as "call for price". They also ship. I hope this helps.

http://www.xroadsmotorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=92074&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1979&fveh=2091

BTW...I have had nothing but bad luck with Bike Bandit...which is why I use Dennis Kirk and my local dealer first.

[Barneycanoe]

Fixed my oil leak!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59327578@N05/6209085502/


See my oil pushrod with a groove in it. I finally took apart the right side of the engine so I could get it out.

As I was pondering what to do next, my wife said to me "Didn't the guy at the bike wreckers say you could reverse it?"

Sure enough, the rod was symmetrical. It had a spring brazed onto one end which must be simply to keep the rod in the centre of the clutch plates. I knocked off the spring, used some wet sandpaper to smooth the rod, tweaked the spring a little tighter so it wouldn't move on the rod, and re-inserted it the back way round.

Success. No oil coming out. Hurray. My dear wife saved me probably close to a hundred bucks as well as a lot of time.

Of course, when putting everything back together I put the part the rod presses onto on the clutch side OUTSIDE the last clutch plate which holds the springs. Got everything buttoned up and then realized my mistake as the rod was too short on the other side.

The only benefit is once you've figured out what and how to take everything off it's a lot easier the second time around.

Dave

[apopleptic]

The chutch push rod seal will normally drip right under the shifter lever...right onto the ground. You don't want the flange type...that has to go in from the back. You want the service replacement Suzuki pn 09285-06011 which can go in from the front. You may want to change the shifter seal while you're at it...also very easy to do.

Use a thin drywall screw and pull the seal. Almost as soon as the screw gets a bite it will pull out.

Put the new seal in place and use a piece of pipe with the old seal on the end (to protect the new seal) to drive it home. It is super easy to change.

Very true about not wanting the flange type. The original is a flange type.
I ordered a non flanged replacement and a new retaining bracket to match.
My problem is that I can't get the old flanged seal out. I tried the screw trick and the screw broke. Then I tried caving in the side with a punch but it seems to be a pretty big lip on there and I'm afraid I'm going to damage the engine.
So how do I get to the other side of this so I can take the seal out?

[Mekanix]

Split the case

The flange is holding it in the engine. Its installed from the inside-out.

You might be able to pick away at the seal and remove as much of it as you can.

Then there may be enough room to install the new seal with the flange still in its place.

[apopleptic]

OK, the old seal certainly put up a fight.

I basically had to tap it with a punch until it completely came apart. Then I pried it out oh so carefully.
Now I have no idea what happened but the rod slid in beyond my reach. I'm also hoping those two holes belong there
Now what do I do?

[Mekanix]

Well...

The impossible has been achieved

good job

[apopleptic]

OK, here is how to tell how hard of a time you are going to have doing this job.
Examine this picture and figure out which bracket you have.

The seal next to it is how it will look after you take it out.
If you have the top type of holder, I would not do this job unless you really have a bad leak there.
Here's how it looks now. I'm not going to bend the tabs on the plate until I test it and make sure it isn't leaking.

[Mekanix]

Notice the oil delivery for that area comes out in between the bearing and the seal. I'm guessing it finds its way into the bearing through those little holes in the bearing you noticed.
This is why they leak so easily I think .