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    #16
    Originally posted by willman View Post
    It's a new computer and i haven't gotten around to finding my old install discs, when i find Microsoft office i should be able to see it.
    I would consider trying openoffice.
    I used to work for a company that switched all their computers over to openoffice since it was compatible with MS office and free. Something about saving over half a million dollars or something...
    The official home page of the Apache OpenOffice open source project, home of OpenOffice Writer, Calc, Impress, Draw and Base.

    I'm pretty sure you can just get rid of it later like I did if you don't like it.

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      #17
      I used the zip tie method worked like a charm!
      ok so they are:
      front right: can't get gauge in, and the shim is not marked, miked in at .1018"(2.5857mm)
      front left: could not gauge, shim marked 2.60, miked in at .1029in(2.6137mm)
      rear right: could fit a .002in(0.051mm) gauge in, shim marked 2.60 miked in .1024in (2.6001mm)
      rear left: gauged at .0015in(0.0381mm), shim marked 2.55X miked in at .1014in(2.5756mm)
      any suggestions?

      thanks guys,
      willman
      Last edited by Guest; 09-25-2011, 12:32 PM.

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        #18
        Alright, i'm downloading it, but i wouldn't hold my breath if i were you. I live out in the middle of nowhere and the internet is slow.

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          #19
          do you have a measuring caliper so you can check the unmarked one? I recommend buying a digital one if you don't have one already. they are $15 or so at Harbor Freight (or elsewhere). Inaccurately marked shims is the only reason I jumped up two sizes at once(replacement was marked 2.55 but was really 2.59)
          also, I've noticed that at least two of the shims I came across were mis marked or unlabeled, and I have heard that story from others on these boards.

          I recommend the shim club for two reasons.
          1. if you get one and the size doesn't work you'll be able to swap it for a new one.
          2. how many extra spare shims do you need to have that you will probably never have use for again? Maybe someone else will have a use? It's called recycling. and at $5 per shim or more, I would say that this is a perfect candidate.

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            #20
            Yes, i have some dial calipers but i used a 0"-1" mike and it read as .1018"(2.5857mm)
            I also listed the readings for all the other ones as well to make things easier.

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              #21
              Haha, you had me confused for just a second there. Sorry for the lengthy reply, let me know if any of it is stupidly garbled and unintelligible.
              I'm going to recommend that we keep all measurements in metric from now on. I forget who, but someone recommended it to me a while back since these are metric cruisers.
              Any boy I sure do agree about the zip tie method.

              Originally posted by willman View Post
              I used the zip tie method worked like a charm!
              OK so they are:
              front right: can't get gauge in, and the shim is not marked, miked in at .1018"(2.5857mm)
              front left: could not gauge, shim marked 2.60, miked in at .1029in(2.6137mm)
              rear right: could fit a .002in(0.051mm) gauge in, shim marked 2.60 miked in .1024in (2.6001mm)
              rear left: gauged at .0015in(0.0381mm), shim marked 2.55X miked in at .1014in(2.5756mm)
              any suggestions?

              thanks guys,
              willman
              So both of your exhaust are to small to measure.
              Try this so see if you would possibly need to go down two steps (I doubt you will since you said they spin freely)
              I believe it was mentioned earlier that a dollar coin fits, so get one of those. If you don't feel a coin can be a spacer then don't try this and just put .01mm in the spreadsheet. I have to mention, it's alot easier to just put this in the spreadsheet rather than going through the hassle.
              and remember to keep track of which shim is which to you don't have to spend forever figuring that out later.
              Remember spec is .03mm to .08mm
              remove the left rear shim and replace with a coin spacer. place this shim into the front right and try to measure. if you can get your .04mm feeler in there I would show a clearance of .03mm just at the bottom of spec. meaning a step down of .05mm will put you to the better .08mm end of spec. if it doesn't fit put .01 in for the reading in the spreadsheet for a worst case scenario. now replace the original shim in the front right.
              again using the shim from the left rear (2.5756mm) place this into the front left. try to measure this one with the .07mm feeler and if that fits you will be at .03mm if the .06mm fits you will be at .02mm .05mm will be .01mm.
              now replace the shims where they came from. you have all your measurements.
              Fill out the spreadsheet and it will tell you what you need. remember if you have two or three out of spec, you can possibly reuse one shim in another bucket
              Last edited by Guest; 09-25-2011, 01:37 PM. Reason: typo

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                #22
                OK, i'll keep it in metric from now on, sorry for the confusion.
                Oh, and what you said makes perfect sense
                I had a box of about 20 of those $ coins and have been searching for them; can't find them anywhere
                Since the buckets spin so freely i think I'm going to go down 1 1/2 sizes, so instead of going from a 2.60 to 2.50 i'll go 2.50X. Does that sound OK?

                thanks again,
                willman

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by apopleptic View Post
                  I'm going to recommend that we keep all measurements in metric from now on.
                  I would recommend staying with metric measurements, too, but is sounds like he has INCH feeler gauges with metric approximations also printed on it.
                  In that case, please use the INCH measurements in the spreadsheet.

                  If you splurge later and get metric feelers, no problem. Just continue as before, but put metric measurements in, it will keep working. You can switch back any time you want, as many times as you want, it will just tell you what your clearances were last time, in the units you used last time.



                  Originally posted by willman View Post
                  Since the buckets spin so freely i think I'm going to go down 1 1/2 sizes, so instead of going from a 2.60 to 2.50 i'll go 2.50X. Does that sound OK?
                  That sounds good, except for one small item. Not sure about the shim club, but you can not order "X" shims from any retailer.

                  It will not hurt to run your clearances a bit large, out to .09mm, some will even go .10mm, and that will easily allow for that half-shim size.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
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                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                    #24
                    Correct, my feeler gauges, mike, and calipers are all inch.
                    In that case, please use the INCH measurements in the spreadsheet.
                    Will do.
                    And yes, I believe the shim club has X sizes for most of the common shims, look at what they have in inventory http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=122394

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                      #25
                      Out of curiosity, since I'll be doing a valve adjustment in the near future, does anyone know the diameter of the shims?

                      I've got a bunch for my 4AGE engine, and if they're the same diameter then I can just use them.

                      --sarge

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by SgtRauksauff View Post
                        Out of curiosity, since I'll be doing a valve adjustment in the near future, does anyone know the diameter of the shims?

                        I've got a bunch for my 4AGE engine, and if they're the same diameter then I can just use them.

                        --sarge
                        29.5mm is the diameter

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                          #27
                          I got the shims from the club, the valves are now:
                          Ex. 1, shim size 2.50, with .09mm clearance
                          Ex. 2, shim size 2.50x, clearance .063mm
                          In. 1, shim size 2.55x, clearance .076mm
                          In. 2, shim size 2.50x, clearance .076mm

                          I swapped the Ex. shims and it just moved the clearance from one cylinder to the other, so I could have gotten away with 2.50 on both of them

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                            #28
                            That'll do nicely methinks.
                            79 GS1000S
                            79 GS1000S (another one)
                            80 GSX750
                            80 GS550
                            80 CB650 cafe racer
                            75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                            75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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