Clutch Cable Bracket, mangled?

[mothra]

So I got my bike back today, and while riding it I heard a ping noise just once, then the clutch cable went slack. When replacing it (had a new cable to put on today), noticed this bracket like this...

Put the new cable on and you can actually work the clutch now...Amazing But should I be checking out anything else?

Here is the bracket. Also the cable that was on there had frayed strands on the end near the lever and was very stiff and difficult to use.

So am I good to go, should I replace the bracket and/or check the clutch itself out as well?

The shaft going into the clutch slid on out, didn't seem to have any broken pieces or missing threads... Is it suppose to just come out. Also there was a dab of oil on the end going inside the clutch, but like a drop on the tip. It seamed to move freely and the clutch is working pretty nicely with the new cable in there as of right now. I'd just hat to have to repeat that again for the same problem with the bracket like that. On the plus side I re-oiled my air filter, so that's good to go.

Then finally finally I can crack open the head, replace the cam shaft chain tensioner gasket, shims, and get everything back together. LOL I think I have run out of 30 year old rubber parts on here..

Oh and disregard the OIL, its been leaking from the tensioner chain seal and dripping down into that area. That is the absolute next thing on the list of things to replace. Still waiting on a head gasket to ship so that I can tear the top end off and get all of the valve shims checked and ensure that the timing chain stays on there when taking that off... We also tried to tighten up the bolts securing the tensioner to see if it had just come loose. So experiment one, and then final procedure from BC's list. Also going to order up a petcock valve to install and hopefully I will be done with the maintenance and have everything rocking and ready to go.

One last question? Will removing the carbs from the bike require them to be re-adjusted and synced? The only time I removed them they came completely apart. Mainly I blame the fact that my generation dosn't really deal with carbs to often... Spoiled young fuel injection generation... What can I say.... I suspect so...

[Steve]

Good luck just "crack[ing] open the head, replace the cam shaft chain and get everything back together". Unless your 450 is different than the rest of the GS bikes, you will either have to split the cases to replace the ENDLESS cam chain or grind off one of the rivets and install a new one on the new chain.

Just removing the carbs will not require re-synching them, but are you sure they are correctly synched now?


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[koolaid_kid]

Absolutely replace that bracket. It should still be available from you local dealer or online.

[mothra]

Yea that bracket didn't pass the around the block test... Do you think that the stronger clutch springs wore this bracket out early? Maybe they are to heavy for the clutch and surrounding parts. I might have to swap them for standard clutch springs. Humm... What do you think. Wrong springs? Seems odd to have a bracket fail like that. It is older. But that seems to me that that would point to something else going on down there. The clutch is a lot stiffer then any other clutch I have used... Remember me complaining about it? The cable helped some but the bracket seems like its handling to much torque.

Cam Chain (Tensioner)
I am sure that I don't want to replace the Cam Chain LOL sorry for the confusion... Missing the Tensioner Gasket part of that sentence (corrected). Basically I have the tension plunger assembly leaking. It has a cracked seal, that leaks oil while running. I want to check to make sure that when I take the assembly off that the chain didn't slip and off set the timing, and I will also need to check shim clearances. I hope that that is the only required maintenance inside of that area. I think that's about all I could handle realistically. The gasket on there is pretty old, and I would suspect that once its off, a new one would need to go back on there. Which sums up every other seal I have broken into so far. So Shims and Cam Chain Tensioner are the only two components I want to really mess with in there at the moment. I hate to even crack them open and check shims, but I know that its important to do every so often on these guys. The engine only had 8,000 miles on it hopefully it doesn't need a new cam chain .

My carbs:
I am sure that they are synced, because I took them to a shop with a Manometer and had them adjusted and synced. Less than a month ago actually. He commented on the fact that even with out the tools and stuff I had it pretty close to adjusted and made it pretty easy to finish adjusting. Maybe he was being nice but he got it adjusted pretty quickly. The bike is running great too. I will eventually get a manometer, but as a college student buying tools as I go here... LOL My budget is getting down there at the moment, so that's not going to be a right away item. Its on the list. That's why I would prefer not to take that apart if Its going to require paying to have them synced because at the moment the carbs are running great. I wouldn't touch them. I have so far spaced project with this bike out with pay checks. It would be a shame for them to come off get all messed up and have to go re-sync them after replacing that leaky cam chain tensioner. LOL

They sprayed my apartment for bed bugs. So I hope that they don't wonder into my place. Great, this should be a fun month... Maybe more time ouside is required.... Least I have some bike stuff to work on.

[koolaid_kid]

Go to BassCliff's site and select bwringer's link. He has an excellent tutorial on rebuilding the cam chain tensioner. Takes a couple of seals and gaskets and you should be gtg. IIRC he even lists the parts required.
It's easiest if you remove the carbs, btw.
I would think bug spray would be harmful to Mothra, btw.

[mothra]

LOL yes, well, mothra also dosn't like bed bugs....

BassClef's site has gotten me though a lot of troubleshooting and maintenance, and save me a lot time frustration and headache. In fact, I have his beginners maint list printed and checked off as I go. That's how I found my bad Regulator and how I was sure the Stator was ok, and how I saved another battery from the grave yard, through the site. Actually his site is better then the repair manual I have... LOL I have fixed a lot of stuff already that needed doing. I got two things left, pepcock valve, and valve shim clearance from the noob list. I also did a few other things done that needed attention. Actually his list drew my attention to a lot of things that needed doing aside from the list.... so THANKS BassClef for your time and info!

I did find the bracket part, and ordered one ehhh that was expensive. I also went ahead and got a petcock valve, and a bunch of gaskets for the tank, engine, clutch area, and some CYA gaskets for things that will be taken apart. Hope it fits!

Thanks for your help

[mothra]

Another question...

Got the bracket installed it, didn't tighten the lock nut and adjuster screw down all of the way. OOPS! So I got no cable slack but it stopped working again, no clutch. LOL Realized my mistake, and put some thread lock, and tightened the lock nut down. (I am just glad that another bracket didn't go) Now I have a smooth clutch! The new bracket and cable made a world of difference. I though I was going to have to swap the clutch springs, but the new release screw mechanism and cable made a HUGE difference. I actually can see why the PO wanted those, if you have a good clutch cable that moves freely, and a nice smooth mechanism movement, its actually quite a pleasant tension to it. Its a little firm, but not overly so, and it gets rid of the mushiness. I kind of like it now that its back to normal. New tires, new chains, sprockets a clutch cable and (engagement assembly?). Wow really smoothed out my ride. Its a totally different bike.

My question is though, where do you like to tighten the adjustment screw down (behind the plate with the lock nut where the clutch area is [items 25-26 fig 6 pg 123 of Clymer 400-450 twins M372] ). I put it to just a little after I got some tension back on the clutch rod, it probably is about 1/5 of a turn after the screw started to stiffen up. Is this good? Its is The manual just discusses how to adjust the cable, which Is good but not helpful should you have to adjust your adjustment screw... Seams Ok.... ?

Then wow I will be able to possibly finish up the maintenance this week on the bike. All of the goodies came in today! I am going to have a fun weekend working on it. I even get to go work in a garage if its rainy this weekend. (oh wait, I don't think I'll ever really be done... just realized... )

Thanks for your help. I know that I have some silly noob questions, but you all have been really helpful and allowed me to tackle mechanical issues myself. I have learned a ton, and have found something new that I enjoy doing. I have really enjoyed working on my bike. Its a night and day difference what a little maintenance will to to these bikes.

[koolaid_kid]

First, congrats on getting the clutch in order. Makes a big difference, doesn't it?
The adjustment screw on the side of the engine is a coarse adjustment. The one on your clutch lever is your fine adjustment. Use it this way:
On the clutch lever, screw the adjuster all the way in to maximize slack.
On the side of the engine, tighten per the book as you have done. If that screw is correctly adjusted, you should need to adjust the clutch lever perhaps 1/4 of the way out. If the lever only needs a turn or two to take up the slack you have the side screw too tight. If the lever needs 1/2 or more to take up the slack, you have the side screw too loose.
The goal is to make the side screw setting such that you don't have to touch it for a long time and all adjustments can be made at the lever.
Hope that makes sense.

And glad to see that Mothra survived the bedbug sprays.