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Anyone ever use the valve shim selection chart??

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    Anyone ever use the valve shim selection chart??

    Hi All, Currently working on an '83 GR650 Tempter...I know, not a GS...but have a shim question. My official GR shop manual has a page with a Shim Selection Chart which shows an easy way to pick and replace the valve shims.

    Basically, it gives an example as such: If your clearance is (X) and your current shim is size (Y) then replace it with shim size (Z).

    Seems easy enough but most posts on replacing shims here say to have a broad range of different shim sizes and go through the process of replacing shims and rechecking clearances until you get the right clearance.

    Is this a good way to do your valve shims? Has anybody ever tried it this way? Going to be checking the valves clearances real soon and just thought if I could do it easier and cheaper, why not. Let me know what you think.
    sigpic

    1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
    1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
    1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
    1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
    1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
    1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
    1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
    1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)

    #2
    Personally shoot for the .05MM at the mid range. I check the clearance on each valve and see what each is at. Then the ones that i feel need tweeked, I pull that shim and see what it is and do the math. For instance..If exhaust 1 reads in at.03 MM and its a .270 shim, then the optimal shim to get it to the .05 midrange would be a .268. But since the dealers basicall sell in incriments of 5 on the shims, then a .265 would put me atthe .08 upper limit. See what i am trying to explain? Youd be best served to check all the clearances, record what each valve is currently at and then check the shims on the ones you feel need tweeked. Have some good calipers or a micrometer handy to check the thicknesses as well. The shim club most likely will have the in between sizes you may need. When you install new shims, place the numbers on them towards the valves..this keeps the cam lobes from wearing off the numbers so they can be read again in the future.
    Last edited by chuck hahn; 01-16-2012, 09:26 PM.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      I have several of each shim size and as all of them have been used, I don't believe that one of them is what it is stamped.
      What I do, is measure the gap, measure the shim that you pull out and then see which one of the used shims comes closest to the desired gap.
      Of the 2.60's, for instance, they measure from 2.52-2.59.

      Daniel

      Comment


        #4
        I always measure them too..some are spot on and some arent. Good mic or calipers are a must for sure.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          Ok guys, I get what you're both saying. And that is the usual way to do it. Thanks.

          I was just intrigued that the shop manual has a chart and a way to pick the supposedly right size shim and was wondering if anyone has tried this before. It seems to make since...as long as each shim you're putting in has been checked that it's the actual size it's supposed to be..and since it's a Suzuki shop manual, I guess the shop technicians did this? Hmmm..
          sigpic

          1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
          1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
          1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
          1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
          1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
          1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
          1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
          1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)

          Comment

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