'82 GS300L Restore & Timing Adjustment - Complete Noob

[Guest]

Hello All,

I recently purchased an '82 GS300L for a summer commuter back and forth to class, etc. It was in OK condition and ran when put in storage last year but had some electrical issues that I have sorted out thanks to the wiring diagrams provided by Bikecliff. Also have cleaned the carbs, changed the oil, changed the battery, currently cleaning the exterior of the engine and other minor repairs (spark plugs, headlights, etc).

So here is where I am at. I removed the cam tensioner so that I could remove the starter and clean the well that the starter sits in. Unfortunately I think I may have turned the crank with the cam tensioner removed since I was cleaning the rear wheel while waiting on parts. I spun the rear wheel while cleaning and I am not sure if it was in gear when I spun it. From what I understand, since the cam tensioner was not in place when I spun the wheel, if it was possibly in gear I could have turned the "crank" causing there to be a potential timing issue if the crank had in fact been turned. I also understand that if this timing adjustment is not correct I can do a lot of damage to the internal components of the engine (piston, valve, etc.)

My questions are the following:

1. How do I check the timing? From what I can tell in BikeCliff's manuals (pg. 265/317 of GS300LZ manual), I need to remove the cylinder head and align the intake and exhaust sprockets with a specific number of links between the two. Is this what I am looking to do? I am nervous because, again, I am a noob. I don't want to do any damage obviously and I don't want to have to replace the head gasket if I don't have to because it isn't exactly cheap.

2. If I do have to remove the cylinder head, what is some general advice?

3. Are there any other maintenance items I should check before giving it a shot at starting after I have ensured the timing is correct? I'm anxious to get out on the road but I want to make sure the engine and its components are working and that I won't do any damage to it by trying to start it.

I really appreciate any advice and from what it looks like this site is a great place to learn.

Thanks!

[tkent02]

Not remove the cylinder head, just the valve cover which sits on top of the head. No big deal, it needs to come off once in a while anyway to check the valve clearances. Do both jobs at once, and it would only take an hour not counting your newbfulness. For a newb give it an entire afternoon. There's really not much to it. The hardest part is going to be removing the old gasket if it's been on there thirty years, and don't over tighten the valve cover bolts, they don't need to be very tight at all. The gasket is something under $20. Get it from Suzuki, grease it up before use and you can reuse it several times.

[hjacobmiller]

Awesome!

I had another question. When I drained the tank I noticed some sediment, although it was not interior rust. The tank is actually in great shape and the gas was not discolored so I'm not worried about an acid treatment or anything. I do want to get that sediment out of there and possible put an in-line filter between the petcock and the carbs.

Thoughts?

[7981GS]

You might find this thread quite useful: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=187284

Eric

[hjacobmiller]

This may be a dumb question, but what component of the electrical system is on the right side of my engine and has a gray (6 point I believe) wire harness coming out of it that goes underneath the bike, comes back up between the motor mount and the swing arm and then plugs into a connector on the main wiring harness on left side of the junction box? Whatever that wiring is, it needs to be replaced because there is a huge break in the casing and all of the wires are exposed.

That is probably a very vague and non-technical way of describing what I am looking at, and I would post pictures but I still haven't taken the time to upload any.

Any clue what I am talking about?

[hjacobmiller]

If anybody is interested here are some pictures of it.

[tkent02]

How about a pic of that broken electrical doodad?
Maybe the ignition on the end of the crankshaft?

[hjacobmiller]

Will do as soon as I get home! In class for another hour and then rushing home to see if parts arrived.

Starting the cam adjustment tomorrow. Someone mentioned checking valves while I have the valve cover off. What tools do I need? I know I need shims, but I didn't know if there was anything else. Anything tools specific to the bike?

[hjacobmiller]

Actually, if you look in the side picture of the engine/carbs below, you can see the connector I am talking about. It is the one all the way on the left next to the silver component (r/r?).

I am not entirely sure what the components are as the service manuals don't show any actual pictures of the signal generator, ac generator, r/r, etc. and my 'newbfulness' is overwhelming.

[mike_of_bbg]

You'll have to take a closer-up picture. 6 wires sounds like either igniter or R/R.

If it's the igniter, that would probably be quite difficult to find a replacement for...

[hjacobmiller]

Is there a specific torque requirement for the valve cover? I have looked in the service manual but all I see is for the cylinder head...

[hjacobmiller]

And I lucked out and found out a picture and it looks like what I am talking about is the Signal Generator and Oil Pressure Switch lead wires. Now, I haven't googled a signal generator so.....

[Ghostgs1]

Is there a specific torque requirement for the valve cover? I have looked in the service manual but all I see is for the cylinder head...

I believe it is 6-7.5 ft/lbs. , not much as Tom says, don't over tighten.

Signal generator = points set in older generation engines. Not a cdi, but an upgrade over points. Ray

[hjacobmiller]

Timing was fine and checked the valves while I was in there. Scraping the old valve cover gasket off was a pain! The last one was put on with perma-gasket or something like it and it took a long time to get it off.

Tensioner went back on easily once I figured out how it worked. There is not a lot of space between the starter cover and that bottom bolt thought.

I checked the valves although I didn't have the tool to adjust it, but they were in tolerance for the most part. Going to run fuel lines today and hopefully get a battery that fits underneath the air box so I can give it a try tonight!

More pics soon!

[Mekanix]

It helps with the starter cover off to get that bolt in.

Instead of using that tool for adjusting the valves I used a 9mm wrench and a pair of small needle nose vicegrips and feeler gauges.

You don't want tight valves.

Back off both nuts and loosen the screws. Clamp onto the square end of one of them and turn it until you get the spec you want. (0.003" to 0.005")

Then while holding the vicegrips straight, tighten the nut.

Repeat for the other one and recheck/ adjust several times until your happy. Then rotate the crank and move onto the next set.


That motor looks just like the GSX400's. I wonder what is common in them.




Your right about the signal generator and oil pressure switch.


How about a picture of the damage?

Its not that hard to rewire if its just a bit of damaged wires.

Check out this manual as well:

http://www.mtsac.edu/%7Ecliff/storage/gs/GS_GSX_250-400-450_Haynes.pdf

Its probably very similar if not the same information in the 300 manual.