'82 GS300L Restore & Timing Adjustment - Complete Noob

[hjacobmiller]

how can you tell? the white tag.. ahhhh i see

[tom203]

Yes, plus corrosion makes me skeptical. If you don't like ebay offerings, PM me. I have a tested R/R (spare off my son's departed ninja 250 ). It's made by Shindengen, slightly smaller to Kawasaki request and has sense wire. Bolt centerline is 56 mm. How big is your present R/R?
Honestly, there are tons on ebay for less than $25.


Update; ebay item #370570156063 ; $25, free shipping; in GA; nice clean unit

[hjacobmiller]

So here is a bit of update on it.

I went to the salvage yard on Friday hoping to see if I could grab a r/r. Ended up having one and I had him test it to see if it worked (according to the service manual). Tested out fine. Then, since I had brought mine I thought I'd have him double check mine. It worked too. Apparently my ohm meter needs a new battery. Thankfully I hadn't paid for the one he had yet!

So, after several hours of going through the wiring diagram and making sure all the connections were straightened out, I decided to see if I could get it going with the jumper cables and then check the output of the stator with my new multimeter. Well, I turned the key and hit the button and the starter motor turned, but it didn't turn the engine. It sounded like it was just spinning. So, I thought maybe somehow the gears weren't lined up correctly, popped the stator cover over (because removing it involves taking out cam tensioner, etc.) and they were fine.

I don't think that my clutch is engaging right. I had taken the clutch cover off last weekend so that I could get the stator cover off to check for any signs of overheating (which there are not) and then I clean out all the gunk that was behind the clutch cover. In doing so I took what I think is called the "clutch rod" out. But I don't think it is going in all the way now and when so the starter motor tries to turn it over the clutch is not in causing it to not start turning the engine.

How far is this clutch rod supposed to go in? And if I have (probably) done something to cause the transmission to be out of alignment so the clutch rod goes in correctly, what can I do to fix?

I just want to ride!!!

[Mekanix]

Well now.

1. I think you have the cables backwards and the starter is spinning backwards.

If this is the case, your Ignitor may have fried, this has happened before.

Everything will work with the cables backwards. Lights, horn , starter... the only things that can be damaged are the ignitor and RR unless they have protection from reverse current.

2. The clutch pushrod goes through a solid shaft straight through to the other side where it pushes on the clutch. Some newer models have a 2 piece unit with a shaft you can pull out like you did. Maybe its just catching on a ledge as your putting it back it. Keep playing with it until it goes it all the way.

3. The starter drives the crank directly through a 1 way clutch, not the main clutch or transmission.

[hjacobmiller]

Wait, like the cables from the battery or within the starter? I thought that maybe inside the starter, but I definitely have everything outside the starter connected correctly...

Do I need to take apart the starter again? It only went back together one way, but maybe I missed something.

Is a fried ignitor guaranteed? Or is there some hope that it may be fine...

[Mekanix]

The cables from the booster battery when you were jumping it are what i thought were backwards.

Its hit and miss with the igniter. It would be just fine if the battery wasnt connected backwards.


What has changed since you last started it ?

[hjacobmiller]

The cables from the booster battery when you were jumping it are what i thought were backwards.

Its hit and miss with the igniter. It would be just fine if the battery wasnt connected backwards.


What has changed since you last started it ?

Yeah everything was connected from the battery correctly. Had me scared there for a bit! I just tested the r/r and it was in spec (5-6 ohms where appropriate).

Since the last time I had it running (last weekend) I took the starter apart and cleaned it. Corner of magnet broken, chunks inside, cleaned, reassembled, etc.

Anything else has just been mechanical, nothing electrical other than cleaning connections, putting new connectors on and routing wiring. I had to take the r/r off to go to the salvage yard but it has been testing fine.

I do think the starter may be spinning the wrong way though. Could it possibly be spinning the wrong way (and subsequently fry up all the stuff) even if the battery was connected correctly? Could I have reassembled it wrong?

Thank you so much. I really appreciate all of the advice!

[Mekanix]

It should be fine then. Its only by reversing the polarity that you do damage.
The starter can't hurt anything if its spinning backwards.

It could be the starter assembled wrong. Could be the gear the starter engages is in backwards. You could take the stator cover off and watch the starter spin. It should be counter-clockwise.

[hjacobmiller]

It should be fine then. Its only by reversing the polarity that you do damage.
The starter can't hurt anything if its spinning backwards.

It could be the starter assembled wrong. Could be the gear the starter engages is in backwards. You could take the stator cover off and watch the starter spin. It should be counter-clockwise.

The starter gear is spinning clockwise from the view point of standing on the left side of the bike. Now what? I checked the battery and it is correctly connected...

[Mekanix]

Ok your going to half to take the starter out and rebuild it by the sounds of it. But while its all together take your meter and check to see if your getting positive voltage on the starter lead.

You can miss align the starter to make it spin backwards. I remember a similar post a while back where this was the case.

[hjacobmiller]

Roger. Took it out and verified it was wrong. Spins correctly now and turns over. Doesn't want to start and starter still doesn't sound strong, and it seems like it really has to work to turn it over. Going to go to the other GS300 thread and see what others have set their carbs to. I don't think the fuel/air mixture is right, which doesn't explain the hard turning over, but maybe why I'm not getting anything.

I really appreciate all of the help.

Wish me luck!

[Mekanix]

Cool , glad you found the problem.


For slow cranking it could be starter still not perfectly aligned. That brush plate is a pain to get it set just right where it fits into the notches.

Or your battery is getting low.


For the carbs, they can be a pain but really they are not that complicated.

Cleaning everything that you can't see is the most important thing.

completely disassembling them and dunking the bodies usually does it.



When you were trying to roll on the throttle what does it do ? Did you have the airbox pushed on all the way?

These carbs will not work without the airbox and airfilter.

By design they need restriction. Even putting a rag over them will usually give some throttle response instead of just dying.




While you have them out and in your hands try this.


Push the throttle slide all the way up and block that long port on the back of the carb on the top.

Then let go of the slide and it won't fall down.

If you let your finger off the long port the slide will fall.

This is what the restriction in the airbox is doing in a way. Its making a slight vacuum in the airbox and pulling up on the slide.
There is more to it but that gives you an idea.


Also here is why it works on the choke.

Do the same thing. put the slide up , plug the port and then pull the choke. The slide will drop.


That's because the choke circuit also diverts some suction from the intake up to the top of the slide and sucks it up a bit.


By the way if the slide just falls down no matter what, you could have a busted diaphragm or the lip isn't in the right place under the cap.

[hjacobmiller]

Thank you so much! Unfortunately I think I am just going to have to take it to the shop tomorrow. I am going to call in a few minutes to see what sort of hourly service rate he charges and then go from there. I think I am doing more damage than I am anything else, and if I am close to getting it running it shouldn't be too much. Certainly less than what I would spend in replacing parts that I break along the way. This is the place I went for the unneeded r/r and they seemed to be trustworthy guys, especially since he tested my r/r and once it was fine didn't try to sell me the other one. Been in business for 25+ years and asked around and people say they're good. I think I definitely have learned a lot and hopefully when/if he gets it running I can do the minor things with help from the forum here.

I'll keep you posted though!

[hjacobmiller]

Update.

Riding! Finally! After a wiring harness swap and a new starter motor running as good as new. Well, almost. Went for a short ride down to the local beach and around the neighborhood and discovered a few things I need to adjust.

1. Clutch/Shifter - really hard to get into first and is touchy between gears

2. DEFINITELY need to adjust throttle cable and carbs. Too much play and it idles really high. I also think that this is causing the engine to run way too hot. It is really hot, to the point I can't even check the oil after letting it run for 10-15 minutes because the dipstick handle is hot. Could also be that the right exhaust is constricted and not letting it "breath" properly. Any suggestions on an inexpensive quiet aftermarket exhaust?

3. Front tire needs replaced. Slow leak.

4. I think I put the rear turn signals together wrong when I cleaned them. Easy fix. Also need to adjust the brake light switch.

5. Random bolts.

All in all with a few more hours of work this weekend I think I'll have a decent little commuter. Cleaning up nice, huh?

[Mekanix]

Download the Motovan catalog and choose a set of slip on pipes you like. 30-80 depending on the style you want. Any shop can get them.

Try and keep them the same length, shorter will cause a slight loss in top end power. I didn't go any shorter than the axle bolt. Mine are the slip on type and I can move them in and out for tuning.

Don't let it run for 15 minutes! There is no safe temperature limit while its sitting there and it can cook itself.

The dipstick will always be that hot.

These air-cooled engines need air passing over them otherwise they will overheat quicker than you think.

When you adjust the cable: Set the idle after a run and then turn all the way left and right to see which way the cable goes tight and loosen the cable until it idles normally and doesn't idle up with turning.

Where are your chrome valve cover caps?


looking good