.png "Powered by vBulletin")
I've had a minor oil leak on this bike ever since i purchased it. Nothing major, a few drops every time i'd ride. I'd typically do anywhere from 150-200mi a week, sometimes more, oftentimes highway. It took a quart every few weeks.
A couple weeks back, something apparently went very wrong. All the oil blew out pretty much at once, best as i could tell from somewhere high on the engine. I have the Clymer manual, all the necessary tools, and some mechanical experience, so i ordered a new valve cover gasket, head gasket, and some of the minor parts i knew i'd have to replace (half moons and such). I was able to tear down the engine head and replace the head gasket, then reassemble the head and replace the cams. The valves were not removed at any point. I washed most of the inside in parts cleaner, but carefully wiped out the pistons. I found no evidence of cracks or scoring in the cylinders. I have not yet removed the pistons to inspect the rings.
While replacing everything, i'm pretty certain i put the timing marks back correctly ("T" for right piston to top-dead-center it, then the "1", "2", and "3" marks on the camshafts according to the manual), got the cam chain tensioner in correctly, and had the head seated over the new gasket snugly.
I have no compression in the right cylinder, and only about 30psi in the left. I checked those numbers with two compression testers. I have not done a wet test, but will try to do one tomorrow and post the results.
I noticed something else, though- when replacing the camshafts, the shims now have well under the specified clearances. They're all 2.50mm's and higher, so i'm gonna swap in some 2.00s on Tuesday when the local parts shop opens and get some actual measurements, but for now, the spare 2.20 i have around has almost no clearance on any of the cam lobes (<.025mm). Could these be the root of my problems?
Also, i have a sneaking suspicion i may be one link's worth of turn off timing, but i'm not 100% certain about that. According to the manual, the "1" arrow should point just under the gasket surface, but i have it aligned pretty much even with the edge. If i keep the "T" mark in line, should i rotate that "1" arrow another link down until it truly is pointing below the edge of the head, even though that makes it noticeably lower?
A couple weeks back, something apparently went very wrong. All the oil blew out pretty much at once, best as i could tell from somewhere high on the engine. I have the Clymer manual, all the necessary tools, and some mechanical experience, so i ordered a new valve cover gasket, head gasket, and some of the minor parts i knew i'd have to replace (half moons and such). I was able to tear down the engine head and replace the head gasket, then reassemble the head and replace the cams. The valves were not removed at any point. I washed most of the inside in parts cleaner, but carefully wiped out the pistons. I found no evidence of cracks or scoring in the cylinders. I have not yet removed the pistons to inspect the rings.
While replacing everything, i'm pretty certain i put the timing marks back correctly ("T" for right piston to top-dead-center it, then the "1", "2", and "3" marks on the camshafts according to the manual), got the cam chain tensioner in correctly, and had the head seated over the new gasket snugly.
I have no compression in the right cylinder, and only about 30psi in the left. I checked those numbers with two compression testers. I have not done a wet test, but will try to do one tomorrow and post the results.
I noticed something else, though- when replacing the camshafts, the shims now have well under the specified clearances. They're all 2.50mm's and higher, so i'm gonna swap in some 2.00s on Tuesday when the local parts shop opens and get some actual measurements, but for now, the spare 2.20 i have around has almost no clearance on any of the cam lobes (<.025mm). Could these be the root of my problems?
Also, i have a sneaking suspicion i may be one link's worth of turn off timing, but i'm not 100% certain about that. According to the manual, the "1" arrow should point just under the gasket surface, but i have it aligned pretty much even with the edge. If i keep the "T" mark in line, should i rotate that "1" arrow another link down until it truly is pointing below the edge of the head, even though that makes it noticeably lower?
Comment