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changing shims is not a pure science...

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    changing shims is not a pure science...

    One would think that if the gap is .03 and you decrease the shim size by .05mm that the new gap would be .08. This is not the case on my bike? I had to jump down two sizes to get a .05 clearance.

    Do others find this too? Weird!

    By the way, the zip tie method works beautifully!

    #2
    Hmmm yes, i found this too.
    What is the zip tie method?

    Xxx

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Seana23 View Post
      Hmmm yes, i found this too.
      What is the zip tie method?

      Xxx
      See the link below. I found it on some guy's very informative web site regarding all things GS

      Comment


        #4
        http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ol_zip_tie.pdf Courtesy of MR BassCliff

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by vtskier View Post
          One would think that if the gap is .03 and you decrease the shim size by .05mm that the new gap would be .08. This is not the case on my bike? I had to jump down two sizes to get a .05 clearance.

          Do others find this too? Weird!

          By the way, the zip tie method works beautifully!
          Are you sure you are measuring correctly? You must go exactly by the book or you will get wrong measurements.

          Did you measure the shims or just go by what is says on the back? Shims are not always what they say they are. I've been caught on that one.
          -Mal

          "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
          ___________

          78 GS750E

          Comment


            #6
            Not an exact science is a very appropriate description. Some times it takes a few shims to get your gap to be correct. I also found this to be true, but..think of the extra shims you'll have laying around for next time!
            sigpic

            1974 GT750 ...done, running and sold
            1974 GT550 .... under construction (done and sold)
            1978 GS550........all stock, running (going to do 550/650 build with it)
            1978 GS1000...another project (Given to son #2)
            1982 GS750EZ ...daily driver(given to son#1)
            1982 GS1100G...completed and traded to son #2 for the 750 back
            1982 GS750EZ...daily driver (got it back in trade with son #2)
            1983 GR650 Tempter.... engine rebuild completed (and sold)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by vtskier View Post
              One would think that if the gap is .03 and you decrease the shim size by .05mm that the new gap would be .08. This is not the case on my bike? I had to jump down two sizes to get a .05 clearance.

              Do others find this too? Weird!

              By the way, the zip tie method works beautifully!
              Something is wrong if you are seeing so much difference.

              Did you rotate the engine a couple of turns after installing the new shim to make sure it's fully seated in the bucket? Are you using the Suzuki instructions on how to position the camshafts before measuring? Another thing, using a tie wrap may dislodge a piece of carbon, trapping it between the valve and seat, and skew the clearance reading on subsequent checks. Not saying a tie wrap is bad, just that there may be some short term consequence.

              Another thing to be aware of is the shims themselves vary. Suzuki labels the "thick" shims with an X after the number. For example, a 2.55X is thicker than a 2.55. Aftermarket shims don't have the same marks though. When changing shims I like to measure the old shim first using a micrometer, then hand select the new shim after measuring my stock of possible replacements. I've found that shims vary up to .025mm so it's best to account for that variation (if you have the correct tools).
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                It might not be pure science, but it is basic math.
                Something doesn't sound right...
                Last edited by Guest; 07-05-2012, 05:30 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1_v8_merc View Post
                  It might not be pure science, but it is basic math.
                  Something doesn't sound right...
                  I thought the same thing when I first starting re-checking, only to find out, the oil film was causing my inconsistency, make sure you properly seat them by rotating them by hand a couple revolutions as stated earlier. You may have even mis-read them at first due to oil on the shim.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks for all the responses. I will rotate the engine a few times and recheck.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I don't know what the other guys (and gals) do, but after changing shims, I will push the starter button for about 5 seconds. This will turn the engine enough for the cams to press the shims into place a dozen times or so.
                      Then I will line up the cams properly and check clearances (and record them in that handy spreadsheet that some guy offers).

                      .
                      Last edited by Steve; 07-20-2012, 03:11 PM.
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        hi all...
                        Maybe im being a bit blonde but i still dont get exactly what the zip tie is doing...
                        Is it just showing that the piston has risen to its fullest extent or is it being pushed under the valve head?

                        Please enlighten me oh wise ones from the West.

                        Xxx

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The zip tie method is a way to hold the valves open without the special tool. The zip tie goes between the seat and the valve to hold the valve open while changing shims. Ray
                          "Nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded" -Yogi Berra
                          GS Valve Shim Club http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=122394
                          1978 GS1000EC Back home with DJ
                          1979 GS1000SN The new hope
                          1986 VFR700F2 Recycled

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Seana23 View Post
                            hi all...
                            Maybe im being a bit blonde but i still dont get exactly what the zip tie is doing...
                            Is it just showing that the piston has risen to its fullest extent or is it being pushed under the valve head?

                            Please enlighten me oh wise ones from the West.

                            Xxx
                            We don't really care about your hair color, just ask the question.

                            I though I had saved a neat little diagram showing a zip-tie in use, but will have to settle with giving you the link to The Zip-Tie Supplement that is found in Mr. BassCliff's "little" library.

                            In a nutshell, you rotate the engine so the cam is fully opening the desired valve. If you look through the spark plug hole, you can see the edge of the valve sticking down. Insert the folded end of a zip-tie under the edge of the valve, rotate the crank a full turn to get the cam lobe pointing away from the valve. The valve is being held slightly open by the zip-tie, giving you the clearance that you need to reach in and pull the shim. when the new shim is in place (make sure it's FULLY in place), rotate the engine one turn so the cam is pushing on the valve again, pull the zip-tie, move to the next valve.

                            A word of caution for those who, like me, are too cheap to throw anything away.
                            Yeah, zip-ties are relatively cheap, but I keep mine for several adjustment sessions. Because of the 'victims' I find while out on my travels, I have done DOZENS of valve adjustments. I have found that a folded zip-tie only lasts for about 5 or 6 full inventorying sessions before breaking. Because I also use shrink wrap around the zip-tie to keep it folded, no pieces fall into the cylinder. Note also that an "inventorying session" involves doing EVERY valve to be able to pull the shim, read the value and enter it into my spreadsheet. If shims need to be moved around, the zip-tie is used a few more times that session. On subsequent adjustment sessions on the same bike, you would only need to use the zip-tie on a few (if any) valves, not all of them, so it would last longer.

                            .
                            sigpic
                            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                            Family Portrait
                            Siblings and Spouses
                            Mom's first ride
                            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                            Comment

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