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    Clutch disengagement issue

    I've got a '79 GS400 and the clutch has been fine for the past 6 months. I've just recently noticed an odd problem with the clutch.

    With the clutch lever pulled all the way in and a gear selected I start the bike but the bike act's like the clutch isn't fully disengaged because there is a slight amount of drive wanting to move the bike forward. I can easily hold the bike back with my feet on the ground but you can feel it wanting to move and dropping the revs. If I ride for a bit it sorts itself out and the clutch feels fully disengaged when I pull the lever in but next time I go to start the engine the symptoms come back. The cable is only a few months old and I've adjusted it so there is no slack in the cable so I presume I'm getting enough throw to disengage the clutch plate.

    Any ideas?

    #2
    Did you adjust the adjustment screw on the helix?
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      worm gear!

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        #4
        Yes back the clutch cable all the way back in so you have a slack , then adjust the clutch properly with the helix. Then you can fine tune with the cable adjustment.Your new cable is just stretching and seating it self.
        1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
        80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
        1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
        83 gs750ed- first new purchase
        85 EX500- vintage track weapon
        1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
        “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
        If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

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          #5
          Originally posted by brettule View Post

          The cable is only a few months old and I've adjusted it so there is no slack in the cable so I presume I'm getting enough throw to disengage the clutch plate.
          Another more sinister idea is that without any slack or freeplay in the cable the clutch has been slipping, if it slips too much it burns, plates get warped, the clutch will then act exactly as you are describing.

          Hopefully that's not the problem, but whatever it is, when you do figure it out make sure the cable has the proper amount of free play.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            Originally posted by hjfisk View Post
            Yes back the clutch cable all the way back in so you have a slack , then adjust the clutch properly with the helix.
            Any tips on how I adjust the helix properly?

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              #7
              Look in the service manual. Super simple to do.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                Look in the service manual. Super simple to do.
                I've looked in the Clymer manual and there is no reference to "helix". Under clutch adjustment I can only find the cable adjustment.

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                  #9
                  OK, aparently your Aussie models were different that ours. We only had a 425 in 1979, it had a helix type clutch release built into the countershaft cover. On your bike, where does the clutch cable go into the engine case?
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #10
                    I'm getting ready to install my new clutch cable...looking at my Clymer Manual...how bout OP post some pics?


                    Ed
                    GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                    GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                    GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                    my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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                      #11
                      grabby clutch.

                      Too thick or just cold engine oil. because it gets better when hot. normal

                      improper adjustment (cable or helix) effects inner air gap and will get better and worse with various adjustment settings. no difference hot or cold - if it disconnects power ok,,,, if not - not ok

                      warped plates -- can't hold bike back / shutters at friction point - damage already done. no difference hot or cold , no difference in adjustment settings.



                      Constant mesh will always have a little pull thru the driveline. as long as you can easily stop the rolling you are in the normal zone. the oil always has drag - sometimes more .
                      SUZUKI , There is no substitute

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