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how to check valve clearance?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Steve View Post
    If you enter that 0.03 reading in your spreadsheet, it will tell you that it is "OK", but when you enter your shim size, it will suggest a change to the next size smaller.

    This only happens when entering 0.03 as your clearance, and is due to the way I had to round some of the computations. The good news is that with a clearance of 0.03mm, you should be changing the shim anyway.

    Just to verify, though, ... you have actual METRIC feelers, not INCH feelers with metric approximations printed on them?

    .
    If I am right at .03 (and I really had to work the feeler in) with a 2.7 shim, the calculation tool suggests a 2.6mm replacement. Would you suggest I go a little smaller such as a 2.55mm or 2.50mm?

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      #17
      Also, can I remove all of the shims with the engine in the same position (I mean with out turning the engine/cams)?

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        #18
        If this is your first time checking it, I'd go one size at a time, seat it, and then recheck. You go too much at first and you'll be asking for trouble.
        Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

        1981 GS550T - My First
        1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
        2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

        Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
        Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
        and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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          #19
          Originally posted by ruler7171 View Post
          If I am right at .03 (and I really had to work the feeler in) with a 2.7 shim, the calculation tool suggests a 2.6mm replacement. Would you suggest I go a little smaller such as a 2.55mm or 2.50mm?
          If you have a 2.70 in there with a 0.03mm clearance, the sheet is going to suggest a 2.65, not a 2.60. If you put in the 2.65 that is suggested, your clearance will go to 0.08mm, which is right at the upper limit. DO NOT go with a 2.55 or 2.50.


          Originally posted by ruler7171 View Post
          Also, can I remove all of the shims with the engine in the same position (I mean with out turning the engine/cams)?
          The ONLY way to safely remove all the shims without rotating the engine is to remove the cams.

          Just in case you have not seen it anywhere else (it is in the spreadsheet instructions #10):
          DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE UNLESS THERE IS A SHIM IN EVERY POSITION.

          It is allowable to move the engine if you put a "placeholder" in place of a shim. That "placeholder" can be a coin (quarter, silver dollar, etc.), but be SURE to get it out of there before hitting the starter button.

          .
          Last edited by Steve; 03-02-2014, 12:48 AM.
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          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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            #20
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            If you have a 2.70 in there with a 0.03mm clearance, the sheet is going to suggest a 2.65, not a 2.60. If you put in the 2.65 that is suggested, your clearance will go to 0.08mm, which is right at the upper limit. DO NOT go with a 2.55 or 2.50.


            The ONLY way to safely remove all the shims without rotating the engine is to remove the cams.

            Just in case you have not seen it anywhere else (it is in the spreadsheet instructions #10):
            DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE ULESS THERE IS A SHIM IN EVERY POSITION.

            It is allowable to move the engine if you put a "placeholder" in place of a shim. That "placeholder" can be a coin (quarter, silver dollar, etc.), but be SURE to get it out of there before hitting the starter button.

            .
            Your right, 2.65mm is the suggested. I took out one shim and stopped. So I would be safe to put a quarter in its place and then rotate the engine to allow access to another shim and so on? Would the textured surface of the coins not cause any harm to the cams?

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              #21
              Originally posted by ruler7171 View Post
              Would the textured surface of the coins not cause any harm to the cams?
              The metal in the coins is far softer than the cams, there will be no damage to the cams, but be sure to squirt a little oil in there, too.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #22
                Steve,

                I was able to easily remove three shims from one engine position and I replaced them with oiled quarters so that I could rotate the engine just enough to easily remove the last shim and replace it with an oiled quarter. I put my numbers into your spreadsheet and it popped out what I needed I will be sending them out tomorrow morning to the GS Valve Shim Club (Ghostgs1) for the smaller shims.

                • Out of curiosity, and no I did not do this, what would happen if you were to rotate the engine without the shims installed?

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