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Can't get the Front Sproket Off

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    Can't get the Front Sproket Off

    Is there a trick to this? I bent the tab down and can't get the f-ing thing to come loose. Brake on, got a 2x4 in the wheel, too. I tried putting the socket on my impact driver and that didn't work either.
    I heard somewhere that the manufacturer might put some kind of locktite compound on it.

    Also, if its this hard to get off - do I need to mega tighten it when it goes back on?

    Tips/suggestions appreciated.
    1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
    1977 GS550
    1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

    #2
    Impact Wrench always works for me. Just zips it right off.

    Comment


      #3
      5th gear, have someone apply the rear brake, that usually works. A piece of wood under the rear wheel works as well. But #1 method for me is my impact. There is a torque value in the manual somewhere for that bolt but I just impact it back on and bend the tab over and be done with it.
      Rob
      1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
      Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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        #4
        IIRC correctly I had to use a 3-4 foot pipe as a breaker bar.

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          #5
          I have no air tools. Heres what I did a few short days ago. A piece of 2x3 thru the wheel resting on either side of the swingarm( had to move the brake hose), and a breaker bar with a long pipe added to help sommon my friend Mr Leverage.
          sigpic
          When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

          Glen
          -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
          -Rusty old scooter.
          Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
          https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
          https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

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            #6
            Hit it with some PB Blaster and put just a little heat to the out side of the nut going around it evenly not to much or you will melt the seal then put some more PB Blaster on the threads put the breaker bar on it and get a big guy to turn it off while you steady the ratchet and extension.
            My stable
            84 GSX1100EFG-10.62 @ 125 mph 64'' W/B.
            85 GS1150-9.72@146mph stock W/B.
            88 GSXR1100-dragbike 9.18@139.92mph/5.68@118mph.
            98 Bandit 1200-9.38@146mph/6.02@121mph.
            90 Suzuki GS 1425cc FBG Pro Stock chassis 5.42@124mph
            06 GSXR750 10.44@135mph
            00 Honda elite 80 pit bike

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              #7
              Harbor Freight sells an electric impact for about $40. It works wonders on sprockets, rotors, clutches, etc.

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                #8
                Lock that will go thru the slot on the rear sprocket and around the chain will seize it from rolling once the tention is against the locks bail. Remove the chain guard and the lock will be at the top of the sprocket. Few rags to protect the shock spring. Breaker bar, cheater pipe, and socket and she comes off. To tighten the nut, put the lock at the bottom of the rear sprocket.
                Last edited by chuck hahn; 09-26-2014, 10:04 PM.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks all, got it off with a pipe and both my parents holding the brake and socket in place!

                  Another question:
                  I'm going for the oil seal behind the clutch pushrod and there's a plate keeping me from getting to it. Now that I have the sprocket off it looks like I can't even get that plate off from this side because there's tabs keeping the bolts from turning.
                  Anybody know why this is even here? It's seeming to look like I'm going to have to go in from the other side (i.e. not going to get to it until next June because I want to be riding for another few weeks).

                  Heres a pic for reference:

                  1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
                  1977 GS550
                  1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The tabs are just locks to keep it from loosening once tightened..bend them down just enough to get the socket on..remove plate. Retighten when repairs are done and bend tabs back against the head.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Youll notice the same safety tabs on the bolts for the brake rotors and sprockets ( if a bike has one ) too.
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

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