Cable Tie method of replacing valve shims

[Guest]

Has anybody used this method as documented on Basscliff's Webite (Mr Matchless post).

My question is:

If you insert a cable tie through the plug hole to hold the valve open while you remove your shim - do you just pull the cable tie out (without rotating the motor) - or do you rotate the motor the correct way until you can remove the cable tie.

In other words - do you run the risk of clipping the piston with the valve that is held open or do you rotate the motor in reverse to remove the cable tie ?

[Brendan W]

I have and I turn the crank in the normal direction to get the tie out. Haven't clipped anything yet and I'm sure if I thought about it for a bit I could show it was impossible. Dragging the tie sounds risky, not only letting a valve snap back but also dislodging something on the valve that was helping seal it.

[Steve]

I do it ALL THE TIME. I have not yet been shown how "easy" it is to use the "proper tool", so I continue to use my zip-ties.

It has been a while since I have read those instructions, but the basic concept is: rotate crank to open the valve. Insert the end of a folded (and secured to itself) zip-tie under the valve. Rotate the crank one full turn, remove the shim. Inspect, change, do whatever you need with the shim, put it back in. Rotate the crank one full turn, pull the zip-tie out. Move to the next valve.

Yeah, it's a lot of crank turning, but the only time you have to do very much of it is the first time you check your valves and need to inventory them. Next time around, the only time you will need to use the zip-tie is for any shims that need to be changed, which might be just one or two.

Here is a picture that might help illustrate what you are trying to do:


This is also a good time to point out the offer in my sig.

.

[tkent02]

Just did tho the other day with the Suzuki tool, I can't imagine anything easier. The zip tie method isn't, I have done it when I didn't have my tools, didn't like it.

[Allie]

I always turn the crank to release the zip tie to avoid dislodging material from the valve and/or losing a piece of the zip tie into the engine.

[Sandy]

Just did tho the other day with the Suzuki tool, I can't imagine anything easier. The zip tie method isn't, I have done it when I didn't have my tools, didn't like it.

Yeah well...... I'm curious with all the turning of the motor how much oil is puked down the front of the motor. I too, have tried it once a long time ago before I bought my shim kit and can't remember if it was a problem.

[Allie]

Yeah well...... I'm curious with all the turning of the motor how much oil is puked down the front of the motor. I too, have tried it once a long time ago before I bought my shim kit and can't remember if it was a problem.

Not a single drop actually. You're not moving a whole lot of oil with those crank turns.

[Steve]

I will agree. At hand-cranking speeds, no oil gets "puked" down the front.

And, ... it's only a short turn of the crank, not constant spinning.

.

[Allie]

You're turning it with a wrench by hand Sandy, not with the starter motor.

[Sandy]

You're turning it with a wrench by hand Sandy, not with the starter motor.

Yeah, I realize that. I just thought the pump would still push a bit up top and overflow at the front.

[pete]

I also only use this method and haven't had any problems, I find it nice and simple... mind you I've never had the opportunity to try the factory tool so I can't compare.

I also always rotate the crank to remove the cable tie.

[8ball]

I replace the shims with quarters. They are thick enough to keep the cam lobes away from the ridge of the bucket, and it reduces the amount of times you have to turn the crank. And you can have all 8 shims out to swap them around, or as I do take them to my local mechanic friend and swap them out for the ones I need.

[Syko]

Great - thanks for the info guys

Steve - I have a copy of your spreadsheet, thanks mate