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GS450 Low Compression after rebuild
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GS450 Low Compression after rebuild
I've been rebuilding a GS450 for the past 2 months. I finished (or so I thought) rebuilding the top end of the engine, and now I have bad compression. I don't know what it was like before, I never saw the bike run. I swapped the valves from my old head into the new, and I'm wondering if that could be my problem. I replaced the cylinder gasket, head gasket, stator cover gasket, cam cover gasket, breather gasket, replaced valve seals and shims, and cleaned and painted the cylinders and head. I put it all back together and had a leaky carb, so I drilled and tapped for bigger screws on the bowls and that solved that problem, but the bike still wouldn't start. I just rented a compression tester and found that the left cylinder managed to put out 70PSI, while the right put out only 40. How can I easily go about troubleshooting this, and could timing be an issue? I had to move the crank forward and then back just the slightest bit to get the chain unbound when I reassembled, and now I'm wondering if that threw off my timing.Tags: None
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gs45082
Are your valves adjusted to 0.03-0.08 spec? I had terrible compression on my 1000 caused by tight valves.
Did you lap the valves in when you installed them?
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JRHemmen
Yea, they're all within spec now. I didn't lap them. I hope I don't have to take them back out, I'd give anything to not have to deal with advance auto's valve compressor again. Swapping valves took me over 6 hours.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
You don't sound very confident about the cam timing so I'd start there.
You should have lapped the valves at minimum, and possibly replaced the rings and honed the cylinder. The second part depends on whether you knew for a fact that the engine had good compression before the teardown. That's the only way I wouldn't change them.Ed
To measure is to know.
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JRHemmen
Originally posted by Nessism View PostYou don't sound very confident about the cam timing so I'd start there.
You should have lapped the valves at minimum, and possibly replaced the rings and honed the cylinder. The second part depends on whether you knew for a fact that the engine had good compression before the teardown. That's the only way I wouldn't change them.
Will lapping have some affect on the shim clearances?Last edited by Guest; 02-22-2016, 08:06 PM.
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JRHemmen
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostBefore you take it apart, ride it a while and see if the compression comes up. Hard to say with old rings in an old bore, but it might help.
And, you didn't mention it, did you hold the throttle open while you did the compression test?
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jdvorchak
You should have lapped the valves anytime you remove and replace them.
We can guess at this all day. When I'm stumped I drop back and pretend I've never seen the bike before and begin trouble shooting from square one. The only way to diagnose the problem is with a leak down tester. I built one for under $20 with a Harbor Freight air regulator some air fittings and a pressure gauge. You may be able to get a loaner from O'Reilly, Autozone etc. Do some searching on youtube for instructions on how to build one and how to use it. But first make sure your cam timing is correct.
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JRHemmen
I took the cam cover and cams off this morning before class. I'll be lapping the valves and redoing my timing, two birds with one stone I guess. Hopefully after this I'll finally be able to start the bike. I wanted to at least see it run before I poured more money into lights, bars, and everything else.
Do I need the specific valve lapping compound, or will any regular lapping compound do?Last edited by Guest; 02-23-2016, 01:09 PM.
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gs45082
Originally posted by JRHemmen View PostI took the cam cover and cams off this morning before class. I'll be lapping the valves and redoing my timing, two birds with one stone I guess. Hopefully after this I'll finally be able to start the bike. I wanted to at least see it run before I poured more money into lights, bars, and everything else.
Do I need the specific valve lapping compound, or will any regular lapping compound do?
I used "valve lapping compound" from autozone I think. Lap them in until the seating surfaces are smooth and the correct width (I think a mm or so, ninja manual has a spec). When they're all done, wipe every last bit of compound off the head and valves. Check your work by installing valve springs and a spark plug, lay the head upside down, and fill the combustion chamber with oil and letting it sit on your bench overnight. If one of the ports is wet from oil re-lap that valve.
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Originally posted by JRHemmen View PostI don't think I'll be doing too much riding without having started it first, hahah.
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JRHemmen
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostWhy not put it together, check the camshaft timing, start it up and ride it? Something I'm not understanding here.
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