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    #16
    I never had an issue with this but I knew someone with a 450 that did and I've heard why it's annoying.

    I have 2001 GS500 cams in my 450 now and they come with the shim. I had 1.1mm shims with the cams and it wouldn't fit, just a smidge too wide, so I dropped to the 1mm shims and both were pretty much a perfect fit so still no cam walk.

    If you want to get rid of it, then yes the 500 shims will do it, but they will need to be machined down quite a lot to fit with the 450 cams.

    Of course you could just get some 500 cams and get a little tweak to your performance at the same time
    1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
    1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020

    sigpic

    450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh

    Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11

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      #17
      Originally posted by pete View Post

      Of course you could just get some 500 cams and get a little tweak to your performance at the same time
      As long as you're in there, might as well throw in the 500 pistons an cylinders that come with the cam.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #18
        Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
        As long as you're in there, might as well throw in the 500 pistons an cylinders that come with the cam.
        I've seriously considered that, but I don't think the 500 jugs cool as well as the 450 and I think they might look dorky with the 450 head. I've got just enough power with what I got and have 450 jugs a plenty. But I agree with your suggestion if one is in a buying mode.
        '82 GS450T

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          #19
          You can at least do the cams without disturbing the head though...
          1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
          1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020

          sigpic

          450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh

          Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11

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            #20
            I have the same thing on my GS450 - at idle until the bikes warmed up nicely. It happened on my old engine, too, so I figured it was harmless. That being said I definitely understand finding it irritable!
            1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
            1977 GS550
            1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

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              #21
              Originally posted by sam000lee View Post
              I have the same thing on my GS450 - at idle until the bikes warmed up nicely. It happened on my old engine, too, so I figured it was harmless. That being said I definitely understand finding it irritable!
              It's a mystery to me why the noise would be less when it's hot. The endplay must be getting greater because the aluminum expands considerably more so you'd think the opposite. The only explanation that makes sense to me is that the buckets become easier to rotate thus putting less side thrust on to the cams.

              If you put your finger on the cam cap at idle, you can feel it tapping away. My exhaust cam hardly does it but the left intake is whacking away pretty badly. Silent once it's fully warm.
              '82 GS450T

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                #22
                gs 750 cylinder head.jpg
                I did this to my 750. Bolt two cam caps together and make one end flat and square, then measure end float to work out the shim thickness. I made mine with brass plate and drilled and tapped 2 holes to mount them to cam caps. It seems to be working after 10k miles.
                My bikes 79 GS1000 1085 checked and approved by stator the GSR mascot :eagerness: and 77 GS750 with 850 top end, GS850g, and my eldest sons 78 GS550, youngest sons GS125. Project bike 79 GS1000N

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by uk gs nut View Post
                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]46519[/ATTACH]
                  I did this to my 750. Bolt two cam caps together and make one end flat and square, then measure end float to work out the shim thickness. I made mine with brass plate and drilled and tapped 2 holes to mount them to cam caps. It seems to be working after 10k miles.
                  That seems to be a very interesting approach, and inexpensive too. How did you square the ends?
                  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
                  1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
                  1981 HD XLH

                  Drew's 850 L Restoration

                  Drew's 83 750E Project

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                    #24
                    Both caps clamped together with a steel bar in bearing faces and mounted in a pillar drill. Squared up with a dial gauge, and 80 grit orbital sander disc stuck to a board on drill table. finish off and polish with finer grit.
                    My bikes 79 GS1000 1085 checked and approved by stator the GSR mascot :eagerness: and 77 GS750 with 850 top end, GS850g, and my eldest sons 78 GS550, youngest sons GS125. Project bike 79 GS1000N

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                      #25
                      Just happened on my 850 this year. Happened after my first ever do it yourself valve adjust. Slipped the tool off the one bucket 50 times. Hope this had nothing to do with it. It is exactly as described for cam walk. The sound is annoying and embarrassing though. Decided to live with it!
                      83 gs850
                      07 vtx1300c

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                        #26
                        You can turn the rubber 1/2 circle gaskets around backwards and they will stop the cams from walking. I learned this from a pro.
                        1981 GS 1100e turbo, 83 motor, turbo pistons, new head, new turbo, backed and welded clutch basket, Dyna S ignition, cbr 929 front end, gsxr 750 rear end with 190 tire, all carbon fiber covered bodywork.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by turbojonn View Post
                          You can turn the rubber 1/2 circle gaskets around backwards and they will stop the cams from walking. I learned this from a pro.
                          I was about to suggest doing something like this. There are aluminum billet plugs available, or at least they used to be, that could be used along with a shim of some sort to keep the cam from moving too much as well.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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                            #28
                            What is the spec for end play? I've seen 0.0015 for runout, but I think that's how straight the shaft is. Tom

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by thebusdweller View Post
                              What is the spec for end play? I've seen 0.0015 for runout, but I think that's how straight the shaft is. Tom
                              Given that the head will expand way faster than the cam, I'd think anything above binding at the lowest temperature you're likely to start the engine would be enough. You also want the oil from the bearing to spray out over the cams so about .001 would be fine.
                              '82 GS450T

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