1985 GS450 starting issues

[dennco2]

So yesterday I pulled the carbs, tensioner and starter motor off the bike. Pulled the starter apart and looks like it just needs a good cleaning with 3/4 length brushes left.

Before I pulled the tensioner off I loosened the locknut and tightened the left setscrew ... then re tightened the locknut. Did nothing with the right side spring adjuster. However when I pulled the unit off the engine ... the tensioner in the center extended to full out. I thought the setscrew was supposed to prevent that tensioner from moving? I'll make sure I don't move the engine and put it back in as soon as I finish the starter motor.

[tom203]

No worry, you can reset and reinstall tensioner correctly later. When you put starting motor back in, leave carbs off till you are sure that starting motor has enough umph to spin motor.

[dennco2]

Carb bodies are soaking in a can of Berrymans cleaner and will for a couple of days. I printed out 77 pages of Ed Ness' tutorial on carb cleaning/rebuilding and this time everything has been removed for a complete job. Previous efforts to clean skipped over a couple of fine but important passage ways.

Cleaning of my starter motor helped the power and rpms. Some sludge has gotten on the com so I cleaned and polished it while spinning on an electric drill motor. Only minor grunge elsewhere internally. I cranked the engine with it and it is way better than before. The tensioner is also back in and adjusted.

I'm starting to think this old bike might actually run (well) after getting everything put back on this time. 10 month ownership and haven't rode it yet.

[dennco2]

I have finished cleaning the 2 GS carbs on my 450LF. Somehow I managed to lose a 5 mm float bowl screw and trying to find a new or used replacement. Also would like to find 2 replacement fuel bowl drain screws (or same size 6mm bolt) so I can drill a hole and test the fuel level through clear tubing. Stopped by a Suzuki dealer and no luck. The 85 carb uses a screw, not a cap ... if someone on this forum has any spares to sell.

Then again, I was methodical about setting the float height ... so maybe a fuel height check is not essential.

During the 2 carb RE-clean, I found flow restrictions in the pilot and choke plunger small passageways. I am not too happy with the Berryman's carb and parts dip ... as I dipped the carbs for 48 hours and many parts and passageways still clogged. I put all the jets and important small parts in a dish after dipping and left them there, only to find days later they had all gummed up again from the dip solution. So I shot them with WD40 and blew them out with compressed air at 115 psi. I still had to poke all the little holes in the pilot jets and emulsion tubes with various size piano wire to get all holes to their full size. I had to blow into the pilot jet hole and cover up and release the air and jet screw openings to verify all was flowing well. Same with the choke system all the way down to the float bowl. These carbs were PLUGGED! .... but now I believe will flow fuel and air like new.

Can someone tell me if I should bother to test the float system and fuel height with modified test drain screws? Or just re-install the 2 carbs back on the bike and fire the engine to see how it runs after everything gets reconnected?

[Gorminrider]

.

I still had to poke all the little holes in the pilot jets and emulsion tubes with various size piano wire to get all holes to their full size.

Me too. none of these magics work any better than paint thinner or kerosene and some little wires and dowels and air etc... for me either.

You can test the operation of carb floats "outside" (or "beside" the bike ) bike before the nuisance of installation. Basically, fuel level comes to just below bowl gasket.
On the bike, I do this (link below) on the occassions I feel I need to know -it's primitive and not exact but if you haven't already been bending on the float tang, it is probably ok as to factory setting.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?245634-CV-Carb-float-level(s)-height&p=2378677#post2378677

[dennco2]

Yahoo! The old Suzuki GS450 fired up with some added choke and sounded good from idle to midrange rpms. Vibration is more than I am used to compared to my 4 cylinder Blackbird. Valves sounded quiet and normal ... but I will check them soon.

Thanks to all guys here who added their fine knowledge and suggestions! Now for the test ride. Bike odometer show about 21,000 miles so chances are I have more challenges ahead in this restoration. I feel in good hands tho ... with this group.

[whkrems]

I had this " The battery read 13.2 after charge but the next morning it went down to 12.6".
I had 'start only with ether'.
Started shutting down with kill switch, leave kill switch off til restart.
Problem 'start only with ether' is gone. Anyone else ever have this? Any explanation why this would work? Wiring diagram shows kill switch between one side of starter button and the igniter with taps for coils on the way.
Update, Start only with ether problem is back after bike not run for a week.

[tom203]

"Wiring diagram shows kill switch between one side of starter button and the igniter with taps for coils on the way."

The kill switch cuts off power to both the starter button and the ignition system. Are you sure that turning off with kill switch is not a placebo effect, masking off problems?
What bike/mdel/year are you having this issue with? Consider starting a new thread- you'll likely get more action.

[whkrems]

Thanks will start new thread.
You might be right. After a week or so not running problem is back. No start without ether.
1982 GS650G