81 GS450 new noise Cam chain/tensionser or other issue?

[tom203]

pulled off the cam tensioner again.... seems to be stuck. Quick rebuild and its moving again.... hopefully this is the issue, it had a "sticky spot" that I took care of.... started her up and no noise...

Let's be annoying sure here regarding tensioner..... You saw and understood this link?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/engine_odds-n-ends.html#A05

After correctly "resetting" tensioner, you reinstalled it,and backed off the slotted screw holding plunger shaft,etc etc.

[Blue Falcon]

Let's be annoying sure here regarding tensioner..... You saw and understood this link?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/engine_odds-n-ends.html#A05

After correctly "resetting" tensioner, you reinstalled it,and backed off the slotted screw holding plunger shaft,etc etc.

Read the OP "BikeCliff style" on the tensioner. Anywho...I'm pulling it off again today to slide a new gasket on.

Edit: actually had that page opened on my phone while I installed it yesterday.... I was griping about the 1/4 turn and 1/2 from the two posters..someone make up their mind lol.

[Blue Falcon]

Had to do some work to the tensioner.. my sticky spot was and actual.. "I'm not moving anymore" spot.... caught something I did not see the first time around. see pic... all those little gouges and nicks were enough to keep the shaft from rotating in and out. Thankfully my landlord is a retired Rolls-Royce mechanic and has an awesome set of tools.... I can fix it. Was able to smooth the nicks out and groove the area right... should have taken an after pic... I am not taking that damn thing off again. This got rid of the "tin can" rattle clack-a-clack-a sounds... currently I can't make the bike make the sound again.... will see later

I am searching for another tenisioner just in case.

[tom203]

Get a another tensioner and install it - used two bolt mount units are plentiful and maybe $20. It's critical that plunger can slide out easily!

[Blue Falcon]

Get a another tensioner and install it - used two bolt mount units are plentiful and maybe $20. It's critical that plunger can slide out easily!

The plunger wasn't the issue, sliding out was easy..sliding back in is where the stoppage was... I could not rotate the gnurl enough to set the plunger all the way in....it was the spring loaded rotating shaft had a catch on it...I guess too much tension is better than none at all in this case..... The not rotating out explains why it only happened at around 4500rpm and when loaded... tension on the chain was greater and the shaft would not rotate back out any further.

I already ordered two off ebay.... total of less than $30 for the pair shipped.

My timing is still money at this point... no skipping... YAY!! The tensioner works like a champ now, but I am still replacing it.

[OldTwin]

Hmm, I've noticed mine tends to get stuck as well when I attempt to manually rotate the knurled knob ccw. Haven't had my motor running yet, so thought it might not be an issue once the motor was running at operating temp. Glad you uncovered the problem, I'll have to keep an eye on it when I get it on the road.

[John Park]

If you manage to get a 'pretty' one out of the pair, it's still a good idea to replace the seal on the 'camshaft' as the shaft inherently wobbles a bit and the seals harden up for a leaky combination.

I prefer a Honda seal to the Suzuki one - assuming you can still get the OEM - as it's more flexible and seals better, especially if you've taken the shaft down a bit to get rid of the grooving and such.

It's a Honda ATV part number 91259-VMO-000 [or old bike part 91206-333-003] and should be about $4 - $5. Because it is a higher interference fit on the shaft you will need to chamfer the edge of the shaft a bit to slide it through. It's also a tighter fit in the housing which seals better, plus it's still in production which suggests fresher stock.

[jsandidge]

..... The not rotating out explains why it only happened at around 4500rpm and when loaded... tension on the chain was greater and the shaft would not rotate back out any further.

I didn't think they are supposed to rotate out unless done manually.

[John Park]

I didn't think they are supposed to rotate out unless done manually.

Maybe by rotating out he meant the plunger moving out of the tensioner. Regardless, having smooth action both ways seems to have fixed it. But I hear you, rotating the knob CCW or 'out' isn't a good idea when it's running. As the Germans say, 'nicht fur gefingerpoken' .

[Blue Falcon]

I didn't think they are supposed to rotate out unless done manually.

you are correct, I could not get it past that point, it would lock, it would not move either way from the notch in it.... needed a new one regardless. I could not turn it far enough back to get the plunger all the way down.

[Blue Falcon]

Update,

No noise... was the cam chain tension causing the main issue. I had to put 1.5 turns on it... I will be replacing it next week when the other ones come in...will take them apart and see what condition they are in before installing.

[Blue Falcon]

Update: Chasing noises. Got "new" tensionsers in, rebuilt them, installed best one, chain noise gone. The plunger spring was gone on my old one, I could easily close it between thumb and forefinger...just lost it umph. Ping sound was loose engine guard mount and motor mount. Now for the latest..

My unknown noise, I think it is a loose clutch basket. Thank you John Park for the post and I double checked everything as the noises were silenced one by one.

1. Only makes noise when rolling, clutch in or out and engine warm.
2. No noise at idle or when stopped regardless of RPM
3. Identified in the "clutch basket" area of engine.
4. Noise is harmonic around the 3500-5000 rpm range
5. Noise comes and goes, I could be doing 40 for 10 minutes and no noise then all of the sudden..noise.
6. When taking dipstick out and checking tightness, clutch basket has very slight play in it.

I am going to order a new gasket and check out the issue. I have one bolt that is stripped I could not swap to SS...I have been looking for a reason to take the cover off to get it off anyway.

On the brightside...apparently this is a common noise in a lot of bikes and does not usually cause issues...other than extreme annoyance.

You mentioned earlier that the sound went away when you pulled in the clutch. Could the nut that holds the clutch on be loose? Usually that's problem only on the big motors, but maybe somebody had it apart and didn't get it done up or there's too much endplay.

Might be able to lever it about through the oil filler. ??

[Blue Falcon]

Took out the mechanics ears...stethoscope... before you ask if I know what I am listening for.... I used to do this on jet engines... very distinct sounds... but then again.. I also had a frequency analyzer if I could not "hear" it. Anyway.. no griding, no scraping, NOT coming from cylinders or crank, cam walk - yes ( #1 noise ) , not bearings, coming from clutch basket or area of basket - yes ( #2 noise sounds like hitting an aluminum muffled bell, when I have the dipstick out, the bell sound goes away a little and I am able to localize to the clutch side area...go figure ). Either the basket is loose or something is loose in the basket. My clutch push rod is bent but not bad enough to effect functionality.

Any way about it.... nothing performance wise is affected...is it worth cracking open the sides to take a look. Or should I just live with the noise, can't hear it at 40+ mph lol.

[chuck hahn]

Maybe the bent push rod is vibrating enough to be making the sound??? Maybe pull the clutch left side cover and straighten then rod as well as you can and try it again. Doesnt hurt to crack the clutch cover off and ensure bearings are solid and the clutch hub nut is tight too. But that also requires a new gasket..as the rod straightening first doesnt require a gasket.

[Blue Falcon]

Maybe the bent push rod is vibrating enough to be making the sound??? Maybe pull the clutch left side cover and straighten then rod as well as you can and try it again. Doesnt hurt to crack the clutch cover off and ensure bearings are solid and the clutch hub nut is tight too. But that also requires a new gasket..as the rod straightening first doesnt require a gasket.

I'm gonna order a new push rod...if I am cracking it open...it's going to be for something.....and also to take out that stripped bolt on the case. I can have the clutch pulled in and it will tink a little bit as I am rolling. I honestly would swear it's the exhaust if I didn't narrow the sound area down.