Shifting Issue - Hard when running but easy when not, clutch issue?

[Guest]

Hey there GS twin fans!

I'm having a new issue today where halfway to work the bike became hard to shift. I was able to make it safely to work, but I had to powershift for the last mile or so. It was running fine yesterday and for the first half of my ride this morning. I have not changed anything on the bike since I put on a new chain/sprocket set a couple months ago.

It feels like the clutch isn't fully engaging, as when I come to a stop the bike tries to roll forward or dies. When moving and I pull the clutch lever the shifter is very difficult to move, as in I pretty much have to do something with the throttle while kicking the shifter to change gears.

When the bike is off it has no problem shifting between gears.

Any insight would be much appreciated!

[steve murdoch]

It might be worn/warped clutch plates or fibers.
First i would try adjusting the cable.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?198275-GS-450-clutch-adjustment-issues

[Dogma]

Sounds like a failing clutch cable to me. Is the 450 one of the bikes with a plastic cam in the clutch linkage? I seem to remember reading of those failing too. I don't know how the plates can have a sudden change, but I haven't seen everything.

I hope you weren't really kicking the lever. That can bend things internally.

[Gorminrider]

add my vote for clutch cable fail....Sounds exactly like my GSX400T when I first got it......If it seems indefinite as to cable, (one symptom of a bad cable or linkage would be that handlever is too easy to squeeze-it's not moving against the clutch)...you can fairly easily take the cover off where clutch cable goes in and see if the helix cam doofunny linkage has power to push on the rod ... no gasket to replace but there's going to be a greasy mess from chain oil ......

or even take off the clutch cover on the other side to watch the clutch being "pushed" and plates loosen but that's a bit more involved being in the oil and gasketed. I've found clutches to be pretty trouble free but a look at the "plate cage" for deep grooving and hangups is interesting if you do go so far as to take the clutch cover off.

add: it's often pretty easy to move the gears when the bike is stopped and on the centre stand without the clutch where the transmission gears happen to mesh and likewise when you are riding in midrange...don't need a clutch upshifting! or down, sometimes! gear boxes around 1st- neutral - second can be sticky in these WITH a clutch at stops)

[earlfor]

Clutch cable probably has frayed off a couple of strands and the cable is now stretching which means all it is doing is getting longer when you pull the clutch lever in and doesn't activate the clutch mechanism fully.

I can't say that is the only possibility, but it is by far the most likely cause.

[Nessism]

It feels like the clutch isn't fully engaging, as when I come to a stop the bike tries to roll forward or dies.

Something wrong with this comment; sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. Which is it? Most of the symptoms you describe sound like the clutch doesn't have enough cable freeplay.

[cowboyup3371]

I would recommend re-adjusting your clutch cable by starting from scratch.

[herostar]

Thanks for the comments everyone!

Lots of comments about a bad cable, but... Where are the most common failure points of the clutch cable? Where specifically should I look? Is there any chance it would be failing inside the sleeve where I can't really see it?

I made sure things were adjusted correctly when I put the new chain/sprockets on, but now I'm wondering if maybe something was rubbing the cable... checking the adjustment was the first thing I did when this started happening.

I'm planning on taking off the left cover to check the mechanism (hopefully it's still pretty clean from when I scraped all the gunk out a couple months ago) and will report back with findings and pics if necessary

[Gorminrider]

Thanks for the comments everyone!

Lots of comments about a bad cable, but... Where are the most common failure points of the clutch cable? Where specifically should I look? Is there any chance it would be failing inside the sleeve where I can't really see it?....

Since this symptom is "happening" to you (going from working to non-working) the obvious is the clutch cable....if you can't satisfactorily test it,(ie: take it off and compare length with another known good ...or see if you can stretch it- it should NOT stretch) get a new one of the correct length or slightly longer.... they are common and inexpensive and old ones are bound to fail sooner or later anyways....
wear? Somesay most common is up at the handle where it leaves the adjustment sleeve at a slight angle but for me, it's always been inside the cable - the OLD UNOILED RUSTY cable grinding on the cables wound-metal housing...rustdust is actually a really good abrasive I think!


These particular bikes have lots of feed back at the handlever . I can really tell I'm pushing on that clutch! so "too easy" is not a subtlety.
,IF the cable is Good. Is the clutch rod engaged by the helix thingie? It needs care when replacing cover...
If the lever feel hasn't changed, then you will want to check the clutch itself...

[herostar]

Ordered a new cable yesterday after all the external inspections turned up ok. I'll post back with results when it arrives!

[herostar]

Install of the new cable fixed the problem!

I would like to take this opportunity to remind everyone to measure cable lengths and get the correct sizing when ordering new cables. Too short obviously won't work, but too long can also have issues with binding if you end up needing to get creative with cable routing.

I also checked the oil, and it was a little low, which may have had some effect on clutch engagement as well.