(Cam Chain Tensioner) What are these bolts for??????

[Gorminrider]

aha-so I got away with it!--my incident -the cam chain took a leap (involving a valve adjuster nut come adrift) and the bike merely coasted to a stop without any particular noise I remember... after a ride-of-shame in a pickup home, reset cam chain, and it has been going ever since.

[Alexxxx]

Thanks All for the input . However, when I did a valve job I checked the timing not was good checked the teeth n there were 18pins between 2&3 . So that's all good . And yes TDC was where I was at . So the only thing I can think that's causing that sound is that I had to leave the RIGHT EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE a bit large due to lack of variety of shimm sizes . So al of the rest of the VALVE clearances are within .03-.08mm except the R EX which is at .102 mm. But I was under the impression that leaving the exhaust a bit wide would be okay ?

[Nessism]

Yes, .102mm is fine. The KZ1000 engine, which was the "inspiration" for Suzuki when they created the GS engines, runs .05 - .15mm.

[Alexxxx]

Yes, .102mm is fine. The KZ1000 engine, which was the "inspiration" for Suzuki when they created the GS engines, runs .05 - .15mm.

Then what is the cause of the sound ?

[Gorminrider]

Then what is the cause of the sound ?

is that I had to leave the RIGHT EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE a bit large due to lack of variety of shimm sizes . So al of the rest of the VALVE clearances are within .03-.08mm except the R EX which is at .102 mm. But I was under the impression that leaving the exhaust a bit wide would be okay ?

With valve play, I to stay WITHIN the manual's parameters......I'd try get a shim that does that.
Or read more like this

http://dannysengineportal.com/valve-lash-setting-and-adjustment/

[Alexxxx]

So I purchased a new shim for the R Ex and all valves are within spec now. I replaced the VHC and ran the bike and still still getting that slapping sound. I resolved the valve sound but still have a chain slap sound, like its too loose. I am going to remove the piece of crap tensioner again and reset it. But my question is if my Timing is correct when at TDC do i need me to to lift the chain still to remove any slack from the front(intake) of the chain before installing the tensioner. There is the chain seems pretty snug all around soo not sure thats necessary but the manual only explains how to remove/reset the tensioner in the middle of explaining a top end rebuild so hard to determine what parts i need to do exactly. I have read the Bwringer website, fyi, Thanks yall

[Nessism]

No, you don't need to lift anything. Just wind up the tensioner as much as possible, push in the plunger, lock the plunger, install the tensioner, and then release the set screw. The plunger will spring out to the correct amount.

[GSXR7ED]

I actually thought there would be a great tutorial on BassCliffs site. Didn't find one. There is a short blurb here.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ds-n-ends.html



Edit: Here it is from Mr. bwringer
http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

Good instructions with photos...thanks bwringer!


Ed

[fastbysuzuki]

As Nessism says, just make sure after installation when you release the setscrew you turn it out 1/4 - 1/2 turn out ( no more than 1/2 turn) tighten the locknut whilst holding the setscrew.
to test the tentioner is functioning correctly using a 19 mm spanner or socket on the end of the crank slowly turn anti- clockwise whilst simultaneously turning the thumbscrew on the tentioner anti- clockwise then release the thumbscrew and slowly turn the crank clockwise the thumbscrew on the tentioner should rotate clockwise freely and smoothly whilst it takes up the slack in the cam chain.
if it does not rotate correctly then it requires investigation.
i have just renewed the seal and setscrew oring in mine could not undo the 30 mm on the body even with a battery impact gun, I got a viton oil seal and I tried to follow the workshop manual and put one turn on the thumb spring but it would not turn the shaft I ended up with 1 1/2 turns then it worked ok, I note in bwringers tutorial he ended up with 1 1/2 turns he also used a seal that was not Oem I wonder if the Oem seal is a softer material.

[Burque73]

On installation, the RHS piston is at TDC and firing position is established then. Afterwards, the RHS piston can be at TDC and on the off stroke. Quite what would happen if you're 360 degrees off of firing and the CCT is removed I don't know. I've just put my finger over the plug hole while turning the crank so I know which stroke I'm on.

On a Four, there are twice as many valves so cam kickback isn't as much of a problem, but it's still wise to go to the position in the sequence for assembly.

Valve to piston contact is usually more than just a light tapping. More like a clank and no more rotation.

My newly acquired KLR650 has two plastic plugs on the left side of the crank case. After removing them the crank can be rotated to reveal a series of marks in the top hole. TDC is easily attained. Oh, the cam chain tensioner is so simple too. One bolt with a spring under it. The down side to the valve adjusting was no zip tie method or motion pro tool to push the bucket down. Just remove the cam caps and lift them up to pull shims. Still a pretty easy job, just different.

[John Park]

As Nessism says, just make sure after installation when you release the setscrew you turn it out 1/4 - 1/2 turn out ( no more than 1/2 turn) tighten the locknut whilst holding the setscrew.
to test the tentioner is functioning correctly using a 19 mm spanner or socket on the end of the crank slowly turn anti- clockwise whilst simultaneously turning the thumbscrew on the tentioner anti- clockwise then release the thumbscrew and slowly turn the crank clockwise the thumbscrew on the tentioner should rotate clockwise freely and smoothly whilst it takes up the slack in the cam chain.
if it does not rotate correctly then it requires investigation.
i have just renewed the seal and setscrew oring in mine could not undo the 30 mm on the body even with a battery impact gun, I got a viton oil seal and I tried to follow the workshop manual and put one turn on the thumb spring but it would not turn the shaft I ended up with 1 1/2 turns then it worked ok, I note in bwringers tutorial he ended up with 1 1/2 turns he also used a seal that was not Oem I wonder if the Oem seal is a softer material.

I use Honda part #91259-VMO-000 for the shaft seal. It's way better than the OEM ever was; they leaked pretty early way back when the bikes were new. If your shaft is wobbly, as they all are, the extra elasticity of the Honda part will deal with it. It's made for sloppy Hondas....and $4 and fits a current ATV.

The 'big nut' o ring has never leaked for me; I never bother replacing it just to make a point.

[John Park]

My newly acquired KLR650 has two plastic plugs on the left side of the crank case. After removing them the crank can be rotated to reveal a series of marks in the top hole. TDC is easily attained. Oh, the cam chain tensioner is so simple too. One bolt with a spring under it. The down side to the valve adjusting was no zip tie method or motion pro tool to push the bucket down. Just remove the cam caps and lift them up to pull shims. Still a pretty easy job, just different.

Those simple ratchet tensioners seem like progress except they disregard block expansion. The GS tensioner is a two way device. More complex, but far easier on the cam drive system. A ratchet system may have appealed to the accountant, but doesn't deal with a steel chain in an aluminum block.

The other option is to use a fixed one and set it hot and let it slap a bit when cold. The early Honda singles had a spring loaded fixed one which you loosened and retightened at idle to adjust. Brilliant, except that shop monkeys disregarded the manual and set them up cold and took the cam bearings and guides out.

Once you avoid the overtensioning of the chain, it's amazing how long they last.