'82 GS450 Engine Chatter - Cam Related?

[GregT]

Locking it via the screw on the side is effectively a poor man's manual tensioner.Same constraints as using a manual tensioner. Adjust when it gets noisy. Lock again after adjusting.I tend to adjust manual tensioners with the cam cover off. That way I can ensure it's not over-tensioned.You should be able to move the camchain sideways on the sprockets fairly easily once tensioned.If you can't, it's too tight.VGplay, unlock it and see what happens. If the bounce is back your tensioner needs a rebuild.

[VGplay]

I loosened the set screw and the chatter didn't return, I'll roll with it as is for now. Might be too soon to say the problem is eliminated but if it happens again at least I know the tensioner is the source. Might be a good idea to strap a 12mm wrench and screwdriver somewhere in case I need to lock the tensioner on the side of the road.

[VGplay]

Bah, had the chatter return last night. When I had the tensioner disassembled to replace the oil seal the spring and push rod were in fine shape, the problem must be in the knob assembly. That isn't listed as a separate part on the fiche so I guess a complete replacement is in order.

The complete tensioner is still available from part vendors. Any thoughts on staying stock or going with one of the manual tensioners off eBay?

[VGplay]

Hopefully this is the last update on the matter. I replaced the tensioner with a decent looking one from eBay. Immediately I could tell the knob had more spring tension than mine. I'm guessing I missed a turn of tension when replacing the oil seal, which didn't give the tensioner enough resistance to hold the cam chain in place.

I've ridden the bike almost 300 miles with the new tensioner and it seems to be holding. So hopefully it is all good to go now!



The replacement is on the bottom, compare the tightness in the springs.

Thank you everyone for your help with this. I wasn't thinking tensioner so I appreciate being pointed in that direction!

[Gorminrider]

First time a video has helped...You really don't need to ever lock the shaft unless you are removing the tensioner from the bike. They work ok as is and save the trouble of "adjusting cam chain tensioner" at tune ups that other bikes without it don't have. That said, there are those out there that consider setting tensioner manually is best and you CAN do that too. Turn the big knob slightly, release just til the bike is quiet, and lock it...that duplicates the way you would do a manual tensioner- tighten, then loosen a smidge and finally lock it. It's a chain on sprockets so just like all chains on sprockets, it needs a tiny bit of slack so the oil on the chain can get between the links and their shafts but never so much that the chain can flop about or ever get off the spockets...just like a bicycle chain, really.