What puller to remove the magneto flywheel on a gs450?

[dennco2]

The service manual says part 09930-30102 ... which is a sliding hammer type puller. People in this group have stated that type tool wasn't effective on their rotor covers and also not the 3 jaw puller types. On ebay I see vendors selling a 38 mm threaded puller claiming it will work for the gs450 ... among many others. Also, I have heard users say they used a hardened bolt to pop the magneto flywheel cover. This part seems to have several names! Some Suzuki's can use the rear axle (or swing arm bolt?) as a puller. I can never find specific information for the GS450. My preference is to find the correct puller for MY bike and order it ... and then pull the stator left side cover off to start my investigation of the starter clutch intermittent problems I have with locking up and driving the starter motor to dangerous high rpms. I have watched repair videos for the one-way steel rollers to the crankshaft and I am pretty sure that will be my problem when I finally get in there to inspect.

So if someone here has a proven type puller to get the magneto flywheel off .... please share that part number with me and how to order it?! Thanks in advance.

[tom203]

Your setup should be like my 650......you need a 16mm bolt that threads into the rotor (after you remove the rotor bolt) and pushes on end of crankshaft to pop rotor off. I would not use a sliding hammer type puller...the plain crank bearings might object
something like this eBay item...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27mm-28mm-16mm-Flywheel-Puller-Magneto-Stator-Engine-Repair-Tool-Motorcycle-/254671003289?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[dennco2]

Your setup should be like my 650......you need a 16mm bolt that threads into the rotor (after you remove the rotor bolt) and pushes on end of crankshaft to pop rotor off. I would not use a sliding hammer type puller...the plain crank bearings might object
something like this eBay item...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27mm-28mm-1....m46890.l49292

I ordered the puller bolt recommended above ... but it was too large. 14mm was the correct fit. First, I struggled to get the center 17mm mounting bolt off. With chain vice grips to hold the outside of the flywheel, the bolt finally came out. Today I attempted to pop the rotor flywheel off by threading in the 14mm puller bolt ... but no luck so far. Using a breaker bar, I am afraid I will strip the inside threads of the flywheel if I apply more force. There appears to be 3 screws attaching the flywheel (from the inside out!) I can NOT get to .. until the flywheel is removed. Are those 3 screws holding the flywheel on the shaft and preventing removal of the flywheel??

I just want the flywheel off .... so I can inspect, clean or replace the 3 bearings called the starter clutch ... which seems to grab the shaft intermittently.

[tom203]

Those 3 screws go to starter clutch....leave them alone . You need to buy/borrow/steal an impact wrench ....the twisting blows from impact will slowly drive the 14mm bolt into crankshaft and pop the rotor free..eventually

edit: best to use a 6 point socket

[dennco2]

Finally had success popping off the rotor flywheel off the tapered crank. It was very stubborn and we tried impact wrench, banging with a rubber mallet, a breaker bar. It finally gave up. Anyway, for an 85 GS450. a 14mm hardened metric bolt is all that is needed ... plus a impact wrench, breaker bar and lots of patience. Thanks to John Park and Tom203 for great suggestions. When the parts don't come off with reasonable effort, one starts to get nervous and think your screwing up somehow!

[dennco2]

So after finally popping off the rotor flywheel, I was able to inspect the stator windings and starter clutch parts. The stator coils looked quite dark indicating it has gotten very warm during it's life time but no windings seem burned or out of normal. Last time I checked the charging voltage, it was very low .... but I will check again when I get the engine running again today hopefully. Also, 2 of the 3 steel starter clutch bearing had fallen out of their position .... but looked in pristine condition.

When attempting to reinstall this assembly back to the crank, I ran into another problem. My 12mm rotor bolt would not thread back on the crankshaft. Somehow the threads had been buggered up. So I had to get a 12mm tap with a 1.25m thread size to clean up the crank threads .... then the bolt went right on. Finding the correct thread size on the internet to get the right tap ... proved to be difficult. Also, the correct rotor flywheel puller bolt size is 14mm x 1.5mm ... for the 450.

[tom203]

If your stator windings appear toasted, I’d opt for replacement...especially if you noted low voltage readings in the past. Here’s my previous stator...note the small cooked section. This was enough to prevent a charging voltage greater than 13.5 at any rpm.
4FE47BFA-D112-44BA-986C-FEAE26E2D990.jpg

edit: hopefully you noted the preaching about getting a SH-775 r/r

[dennco2]

If your stator windings appear toasted, I’d opt for replacement...especially if you noted low voltage readings in the past. Here’s my previous stator...note the small cooked section. This was enough to prevent a charging voltage greater than 13.5 at any rpm.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]62709[/ATTACH]

edit: hopefully you noted the preaching about getting a SH-775 r/r

I took a picture of the stator when it was off. Do you see anything abnormal in this pic? stator4.jpg

[tom203]

No it looks ok....But testing it while running it is the only way to be sure

[dennco2]

What is the best source to get the SH775 part at a good price? Any clones knockoffs to be aware of?

[Grimly]

What is the best source to get the SH775 part at a good price? Any clones knockoffs to be aware of?

Ebay seller powersportsnation is a good source of genuine used ones.
There are several more though, just be sure you can see the genuine Shindengen markings on the pics.
This one here is selling off New Old Stock genuine ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SH775-regulator-rectifier-Bombardier-Sea-Doo-Can-Am-Ski-Doo-Kawasaki-710001103/264150184887?epid=1128258501&hash=item3d8093f3b7:g:FmwAAOSwm~1cQ2u2

Here's a good used one...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shindengen-SH775-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Can-Am-Polaris-Harley-Davidson/274762923511?hash=item3ff9257df7%3Ag%3AWQ8AAOSwwrhgeuRZ&LH_ItemCondition=4

[tom203]

This appears genuine with the correct Polaris part#.....but doublecheck with seller that it’s marked sh-775

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Polaris-Ranger-800-Crew-Cab-Voltage-Regulator-4012941-/324548503859?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

[John Park]

No it looks ok....But testing it while running it is the only way to be sure

I'd at least test the leads for resistance to ground and for continuity across each other. You can't always see a broken wire or a short.

But it looks healthy and will be on easy street with an sh775.

[dennco2]

I put all parts back on the bike I had removed to pull the rotor flywheel and inspect the stator and starter clutch. I installed the charged battery and the engine started immediately. I kept the rpms low and at idle especially there was a clattering noise. I then turned off the ignition .... and the engine kept running with the starter still ON and cranking! ... I tried the kill switch and the starter kept turning over the engine but not firing. The starter motor kept cranking the engine until I finally unscrewed the ground side of the battery. I used a loose fitting rubber boot over the + side of the battery which can make contact with the top of the battery box just sitting there.

I checked the starter button, and it seems to operate properly with the coil spring contact release. So it appears I have starter motor that keeps running all the time and also the starter clutch doesn't release the starter to the crankshaft ... so the starter motor gets driven direct drive by the engine!

This time I also traced the stator wires past the R/R on the left side and loops back to it. I pulled those (5) connectors apart and cleaned best I could. Tried to be super careful to mate the same color wires back together. Back at the starter relay, I wasn't 100% positive the green/yellow wire in on the right .... and the black and white wire to the left?

It appears my clutch lever has been disabled as a deterrent to starting. As I recall, I don't have to pull the handle to get a start. Anyway, does anyone reading this know why my starter motor keeps cranking .... and my starter clutch doesn't release the starter after engine start? When I tested the starter clutch operation by turning the big gear in clockwise rotation ... it also spun the starter motor. Are those starter gears supposed to disengage or stay connected teeth to teeth all the time?

[tom203]

First: the green/yellow wire at starter solenoid is the trigger wire from starter button. The black/white is the ground wire for the solenoid frame. For now you better disconnect the green/yellow wire till you find out why the starter motor keeps cranking.....it’s possible that solenoid is staying locked on internally.

Second: when you press starter button , the starter motor spins the big gear, which spins the rotor thanks to starter clutch grab rollers. But as engine speeds up, the starter clutch “releases” the big gear which stops revolving with the rotor.....but the big gear,idler gear,and starter motor all stay in mesh...but they no longer revolve.