Overhoned?

[Kara25]

Got my 650 jugs to the machine shop for measurements all checked out within specs with minimal wear and no oval shaped bores but undortunately the techinician thought it will be a waste to use his mildest stone for a small cleanup for new rings bcs he is dealing with construction vehicles and heavy duty trucks in his shop so his mildest stone will eat away 0,20mm from my bores. So after i got those news and searching hi and low for a FLEX HONE and finding none in the whole country i got my self a 3stone honing tool. I would prefered the flexhone due to being more user friendly but you gotta do what you gotta do.. so using the 3stone claw i went for 3 passes in each barrel no more than 5-6 seconds each. Those are the results and as to each first time job i think i screwed up. Whats your opinion?

[Kara25]

[Kara25]

[Kara25]

[Suzukian]

Looks good to me. If it measures up, and at this point, you can't add any of, put on some assembly lube on the rings and put it back together. Some people say do not put assembly lube on rings, but I think running dry metal to metal is a mistake. I always use assembly lube, and my motors run great! IMHO

[rphillips]

Agree with him ^^^^, looks fine.

[Kara25]

Unfortunately still waiting for the STD ring sets to arrive. No morey honey colour in the bores no deep scratches that a fingernail can catch i was lucky and the seller was actually honest thats what the machinist at least said after measuring. Everything now has a rough finish which i think is ideal for ring break-in. As for the assembly lube i will be using it on the wrist pins and all the camshaft lobe/journals but on the rings i will be using the mineral oil i am going to run the motor for the first kms to seat the rings. Engine building is stressful after all. If you wanna do everything right that is. There is no way i am gonna asemble the pistons in the bores dry and not mess up with breaking a ring.

[Nessism]

Not over honed, maybe the other way around. Can't see very well inside the bores with those photos. Key thing is to make sure the entire surface is roughed up. That's why the dingo-ball hones are best, even if there are small imperfections in out of round or taper, the hone will reach the walls. With a straight hone, it's possible to miss areas.

Oh, and agree on regular oil on the rings. You can use regular oil on everything, including the cams. Just fill up the pocket over the bucket with oil. Wrist pins? Assembly lube is okay there, but not strictly necessary. Remember, our bikes use a wet clutch. You don't too much super-slippery additives in the oil. And you should get new springs for the clutch. The extra power may over power the clutch if you still have the original springs installed.

[Kara25]

Yeap all the area top to bottom of the bore has a nice clean rough surface now, used the in-out motion on the cordless drill. Just posted those photos to give you guys an idea of the crosshatch that i achieved.

[Suzukian]

Regular oil, yes, Mineral Oil? I wouldn't run that as it is not going to be able to take the heat. Run regular or assembly lube (which is specifically engineered for this procedure). Mineral Oil is good for pickling an engine, and for spraying on bare unpainted aluminum to keep it from corroding. We did this regularly all all the prop aircraft siting on the line at the FBO I worked at. We sprayed the wires, the whole engine, and had a special drip pan go go around the front wheel for the Tricycle landing gear aircraft, to catch the run off. It was a back pack mister.

[Kara25]

Suzukian i am talking about the Bel-Ray 10w40 mineral oil which is JASO aproved for wet clutches.Normaly i use Castrol power one 10w40 semi-synthetic which is a no go with brand new rings from what i gathered..

[Suzukian]

That's cool. Not all mineral oils are the same. I exclusively use assembly lube. Use what you feel confident in using. Sounds like you know what your doing. Put it together!