Take the out hub off and look at the inside splines on the outer cage, and look at the splines of the shaft. I would bet the Outer hub is worn. If you could mount it on a lathe or milling machine, you could check the splines to see just how much, you can't fix it, but you would know that you next search on EBAY would be.
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Engine tick/tapping noise only taking off in gear
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Good video, I looked at it, very clear. I'm kind of picky about things. If you could check the hub "radially" with a gauge, and see if when going in a circle, it has play, that compounded with the play on the spline would indicate that is where your problem is. I do think this is where your problem is, it not, you just found a problem. . Under load you don't hear it as it is forced against the surface, and just progressively wears out of round more. IMHO
Take the out hub off and look at the inside splines on the outer cage, and look at the splines of the shaft. I would bet the Outer hub is worn. If you could mount it on a lathe or milling machine, you could check the splines to see just how much, you can't fix it, but you would know that you next search on EBAY would be.
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Originally posted by Suzukian View PostGood video, I looked at it, very clear. I'm kind of picky about things. If you could check the hub "radially" with a gauge, and see if when going in a circle, it has play, that compounded with the play on the spline would indicate that is where your problem is. I do think this is where your problem is, it not, you just found a problem. . Under load you don't hear it as it is forced against the surface, and just progressively wears out of round more. IMHO
Take the out hub off and look at the inside splines on the outer cage, and look at the splines of the shaft. I would bet the Outer hub is worn. If you could mount it on a lathe or milling machine, you could check the splines to see just how much, you can't fix it, but you would know that you next search on EBAY would be.
I'm not sure what my next steps should be. I'm thinking about buying all new parts from Suzuki. (Hub, bearings, etc.) Or maybe ebay, like you mentioned.
Here's another video
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I'd try EBAY first. I've made out really well on EBAY, and from some members of this forum also. Someone here may have everything you are looking for. Replace all the Clutch Springs with new ones. They are old, and being compressed for so long just can't give you the pressure you need. If you have deep enough pockets, get the stuff new, if still available. I tend to buy used, looking at the seller's reputation, and how many miles where on the bike it came off of. Some people drop these bikes at 10 to 20K miles and they sell them for parts, you end up with a good deal.
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Originally posted by Stephenabner View Post
Thanks for the info, I just took the clutch housing/hub completely off and 3 of the springs are very loose. The shaft looks fine, but the splines on the outer hub do look somewhat worn.
1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
1982 GS450txz (former bike)
LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.
I identify as a man but according to the label on a box of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four
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There NEVER should be slop on splines of any sort (inside or outside). That is the very reason splines are used. You have to replace the outer hub, the inner one could be fine, unless that one has any discernible slop. If you don't, it could cause your clutch plates which use these parts to locate themselves, to stick and wear prematurely. The springs have to also be replaced, old age, and the ability to hold the pressure required.
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So here's an update. I installed new OE exhaust header gaskets and installed new clutch hub springs and the noise is still there.
I rode the bike without a helmet on and it sounds like the tapping/ticking is definitely increasing in speed with the RPM, which leads me to believe it's in the valvetrain. Still not understanding why it only taps under load and only when the engine is warmed up.
Sure hope it's not a small end
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Dang, hoped the tick was was gone. I dun'no, My CB1100F has a valve a little loose, it ticks a little when first started cold, but completely quiet after warms a couple of minutes. Under load or not has nothing to do with the tick... Hoping for more ideas.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100
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Originally posted by rphillips View PostDang, hoped the tick was was gone. I dun'no, My CB1100F has a valve a little loose, it ticks a little when first started cold, but completely quiet after warms a couple of minutes. Under load or not has nothing to do with the tick... Hoping for more ideas.
I'm up for ideas, and will do whatever it takes. I want to completely restore this bike. I'm kind of fell in love with it
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Check cam chain for stretch. And tensioner.
also try a stethoscope to pinpoint.
or a hardwood dowel though its more cumbersome.
old cb 550 a friend had sounded like a sewing machine but became quiet at operating temp.
the tappy is happy school of valve lash is lazy and denies the impact of mass x acceleration.
Is .005" is the middle?
could a slightly Ben valve be sticking.?
Is an internal element in the delkevic pipe possible?
maybe try a heavier oil mineral not synth to see if the sound changes or moves.1983 GS 550 LD
2009 BMW K1300s
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Originally posted by Big Block View PostMy 1150 had a strange tick. It turned out to be cracks in the clutch basket. As well the steel center was wearing the aluminum outer a bit. Probably a common issue. Just something to inspect.
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The frequency will tell you if it's a valve. If it goes away when it warms up, you might have a valve in it's guide that is becoming loose, but when hot, seals up. I don't think I'd sweat it until it gets louder, or something affects the performance. the only way to make sure about tics like that is to do the head, and that may be premature, especially if it goes away.
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