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Valve Stem Seals, or maybe throw in the towel

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    Thanks Ed. That’s a much better deal at $52.15 than the OEM head gasket, which partshark has for $90.44 I’ll be shopping for valve stem seals, base, head, valve cover, stator cover, clutch cover, and oil pan gaskets for this whole engine soon enough. Guess I know what to ask for for Christmas. Hmm, rebuild bits for the GS, or a top box for the Tiger.
    Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 10-19-2023, 06:13 PM.

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  • Nessism
    replied
    This gasket seems like a good deal. I can't find any OEM ones for cheap...

    SIZE: UP TO 71.00mm or 816cc. TO FIT: 1980 1981 1982 1983 GS750 4v PER CYLINDER ENGINES. It is ideal for head gasket use. CFM-20 allows heat to be drawn evenly across the gasket surface while still providing maximum sealing characteristics when exposed to coolants and / or oil.

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    And so it begins. Since it’s intact with all its parts, l decided to work on the spare 82 head. It appears to be in really good shape. I ran a bolt through all exhaust bolt holes. All good there. Spark plug holes all good too. Valves have only a bit of carbon on them. I started using the HF compressor tool I bought on the springs and that was getting me nowhere fast. So I tried a method I’d seen in a video putting a socket over the valve spring retainer cap and whacking it with a hammer. Worked like a charm. Managed to keep all 32 keepers, both eyeballs, and nine of my fingers aren’t bleeding. I do intend to spend a good bit of time cleaning the head, measuring everything and trying my hand at lapping the valves. Haven’t bought new seals yet. No hurry. Got a shiny new red thing to ride.

    I have a question. The valve spring seats are still in place (second picture). They spin, but my weak magnet wouldn’t pick them out. And I didn’t want to try prying. I suppose if I’m careful not to lose them while cleaning, couldn’t they just stay there? Probably just answered my own question. As long as I’m careful.



    Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 10-18-2023, 09:12 PM.

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  • KiwiAlfa156
    replied
    Just Google 'burnt exhaust valve' and look at the images. Or look at this



    A serverely burnt valve, is the point they lose bits, the combustion pressure blows the edge of the soft (but not liquid) metal instantaneously out the exhaust port. It is a very sudden failure. A metal fracture will have sharp edges revealing the crystalline structure, or show evidence of tearing, the damage on a burnt exhaust valve if you look closely is rounded.


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  • rphillips
    replied
    I dun'no, It sure don't look like my burnt valves. I've got a CB1100F head out in the garage, with 2 burnt valves. It's still completely assembled and just looking you can't see anything wrong with it...

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  • 93Bandit
    replied
    Wow! Too me it looks like a chunk of valve broke off, rather than burning off.

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    In case anyone wanted a better look at the broken valve. Everything is now bagged, tagged, and waiting for the snow to fly.

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    I've read-up some on this. For right now, it's a bit TMI all at once, a bit overwhelming. I will be seeking guidance when I'm ready. Want to do it right this time. Never lapped valves before. But I'm up for it if necessary.

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  • KiwiAlfa156
    replied
    Originally posted by pdqford View Post
    Rich, check the valve seat width.
    Too wide a seat width and those carbon deposits to get stuck into the seat and keep the valve from sealing properly.
    Too narrow a seat width will prevent valve head from transferring heat into the block.
    Seat width should be about 0.040”

    And a worn valve seat leaves the valve margin too thin and invites high temps that can melt the valve edge, much like yours looks.
    Valve margin should be at least 0.02”.
    Say, how far did you leave those HDs behind?
    Engineers blue or even a marker pen works for checking both seal continuity and seat contact width.

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    The Tiger comes in lots of cc configurations and road/dirt biases. The one I’m looking at is 1215cc road biased but very dirt capable. Specs here.

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  • Redman
    replied
    Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
    .
    .
    If I get the Tiger, that will fulfill my liter bike jones.
    Oh Oh!
    Tiger 1050
    Liter bike, yes, but 3 cylinder, so low end torque.
    What my son has (and had before). I rode it and learnt to have it pointed straight down the road before crank the throttle (cuz I didnt know how to steer without front wheel on pavement).
    But that is another story.

    Seems like you made quick work on the diagnosis and dissasembly.

    .

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    My garage is attached to the house. I've added an electric heater in the wall. It takes the chill off. It's not bad.

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  • 93Bandit
    replied
    Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
    And now back to our regularly scheduled program:
    Had a few hours in the garage tonight to pull valve cover, exhaust, airbox, and finally, the head

    Tadahhh! # 4 exhaust.



    Ayo! Called it lol. Glad you found the issue. Now you have a fun winter project. Hopefully you have heated shop space?

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  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    Originally posted by storm 64 View Post
    Rich, just give a shout out if you need anything.
    I have a valve spring if you need it.
    I even have a 1100e engine if you're interested in the 7/11 swap! ...
    Oh, buddy. Don't tempt me!
    Thanks for the offer.
    If I get the Tiger, that will fulfill my liter bike jones.

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  • rphillips
    replied
    OOhhh, that's dirty...

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