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Valve Stem Seals, or maybe throw in the towel
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5590
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
I've read-up some on this. For right now, it's a bit TMI all at once, a bit overwhelming. I will be seeking guidance when I'm ready. Want to do it right this time. Never lapped valves before. But I'm up for it if necessary.
Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5590
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
In case anyone wanted a better look at the broken valve. Everything is now bagged, tagged, and waiting for the snow to fly.
Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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I dun'no, It sure don't look like my burnt valves. I've got a CB1100F head out in the garage, with 2 burnt valves. It's still completely assembled and just looking you can't see anything wrong with it...1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100
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Just Google 'burnt exhaust valve' and look at the images. Or look at this
A serverely burnt valve, is the point they lose bits, the combustion pressure blows the edge of the soft (but not liquid) metal instantaneously out the exhaust port. It is a very sudden failure. A metal fracture will have sharp edges revealing the crystalline structure, or show evidence of tearing, the damage on a burnt exhaust valve if you look closely is rounded.
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5590
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
And so it begins. Since it’s intact with all its parts, l decided to work on the spare 82 head. It appears to be in really good shape. I ran a bolt through all exhaust bolt holes. All good there. Spark plug holes all good too. Valves have only a bit of carbon on them. I started using the HF compressor tool I bought on the springs and that was getting me nowhere fast. So I tried a method I’d seen in a video putting a socket over the valve spring retainer cap and whacking it with a hammer. Worked like a charm. Managed to keep all 32 keepers, both eyeballs, and nine of my fingers aren’t bleeding. I do intend to spend a good bit of time cleaning the head, measuring everything and trying my hand at lapping the valves. Haven’t bought new seals yet. No hurry. Got a shiny new red thing to ride.
I have a question. The valve spring seats are still in place (second picture). They spin, but my weak magnet wouldn’t pick them out. And I didn’t want to try prying. I suppose if I’m careful not to lose them while cleaning, couldn’t they just stay there? Probably just answered my own question. As long as I’m careful.
Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 10-18-2023, 09:12 PM.Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35644
- Torrance, CA
This gasket seems like a good deal. I can't find any OEM ones for cheap...
Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5590
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
Thanks Ed. That’s a much better deal at $52.15 than the OEM head gasket, which partshark has for $90.44 I’ll be shopping for valve stem seals, base, head, valve cover, stator cover, clutch cover, and oil pan gaskets for this whole engine soon enough. Guess I know what to ask for for Christmas. Hmm, rebuild bits for the GS, or a top box for the Tiger.Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 10-19-2023, 06:13 PM.Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
- Likes 1
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5590
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
Spring seats came out with out issue after some of the oil dried up a bit
Making slow progress over last few evenings. I lapped the valves. Got some Prussian blue dye and checked all. After a second go-round of lapping all valves and seats look more or less like the first pic below. First time doing this and learning. Pretty happy so far.
I have these seals in my eBay cart. Only ones I found that actually mention viton. I’ll get these unless someone has a better idea.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/300785685234?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-nkPeINbTN2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=EK7fcRW9Q5y&var=&wi dget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I have a question about installing the seals. Various videos show 2 different ways. Clymer manual says to push or drive the seals into place then insert the valve stems up through from the bottom through seat and seal. I’ve seen videos where they inset the stem through the seat first then install the seal over the stem. Is one way better? Does it matter. Dumb question?
edit: this seems like a good idea:
Anyway, thanks for the help. We’ll get there.
Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 10-31-2023, 09:40 PM.Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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Conscious of the danger of damaging the seal lip, I inserted the valve into the head, covered the end of the stem with a bit of polythene that's long enough to cover the collet cut-out, then, with plenty of lube, slowly pushed the seal over the stem and down onto its seat. Not sure about your head, but mine has a seating recess at the base of the shoulder where the seal sits.
I used long cup-nosed pliers to seat the seals properly.
After that, easy enough to re-install the springs and collets.
<edit> pretty much like the video shows.
Frankly, anyone who advocates fitting the seal to the head, then just ramming the valve up through it, is an idiot whose advice on other stuff is probably just as flawed.Last edited by Grimly; 11-01-2023, 03:38 PM.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Originally posted by Grimly View PostFrankly, anyone who advocates fitting the seal to the head, then just ramming the valve up through it, is an idiot whose advice on other stuff is probably just as flawed.
Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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I personally like to install the seals without the valves installed.
That way i have a better feel for the oiled up seal, i can feel the seal plop in the valve guide groove.
With better feel i mean compared to using pliers.
Remove the spring from the seal, oil the valve stem (GS valves do not have threads like in the movie shown earlier)
and push the valve through the seal.
No way that can cause damage to the lip.
Next, install the spring.
What's in this procedure that you find so risky ?
Last edited by Rijko; 11-01-2023, 05:48 PM.Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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