New clutch in my 1982 Kat 1000

[roy826]

Went with the EBC SRK kit from parts giant. Price seemed good and it comes complete with all fibers, steels and springs. I already have a new oem gasket. I’ve done many clutches on different bikes never on this one. No surprises ahead for me I assume? Sadly I just changed the oil this past Sunday so I’ll have to swing by my local Suzuki dealer for 4 new quarts of 10w40 Ecstar. Clutch is the original one in it now. It still works ok but doesn’t disengage until the lever is completely out and it’s got a new clutch cable properly adjusted. The clutch lever is new also. 40k + miles on the oem clutch I’d say it’s time for a new one. Clutch doesn’t rattle or make any noises. This will be first time the clutch cover has ever been off.

[rphillips]

Wouldn't count on ware on plates being the problem, those wet clutches just rarely ware at all, even after 40K. Save your oil, roll both wheels up on 2 X 6 then lean on side stand, removing clutch cover shouldn't lose any oil except drops on gasket and cover... Still thinking about what's changed to let clutch engage at a different place. Not say'in plates aren't worn, just pretty rare.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Hi Roy826, unless your Kat has been constantly launched off the line and the clutch abused pretty hard there shouldn't be enough wear on OEM plates at 40,000 miles to need replacing them. I have owned Kats for 44 years and still ride a Kat to this day. One of my Kats had 340,000 km and still had the original plates. My original survivor 1982 1100 Kat has 230,000 km on the clock and it has done plenty of hard riding and sporty take-offs at times and is still using the original plates it left the factory with. It has had clutch plate drag issues where no matter the cable adjustment the plates wouldn't release completely and with the clutch lever engaged the Kat would creep forward because the plates were binding.

This can happen on high mileage clutches and is caused by the clutch plates bedding in over many years and creating high and low points of contact on the plate stack. Sometimes this can be solved by removing the plates and repacking and flipping the plates in another order to change the contact points. The plates must still be installed in the correct steel and fibre order however, they are now in new positions in the stack. I had to do this on my survivor Kat at 207,000km (has had a pretty hard life) and after repacking the plates no more clutch drag and cable adjustment is now back to minimal on the lower adjuster.

Yep, no need to change the oil if you lean the Kat over to remove the clutch cover. If you prefer to keep the Kat level, drop the oil into a clean oil tray and it can be used again if you are O.K. with the condition of the oil.

OEM plates from Suzuki here in Australia are $25 each so restacking the plates to get a few more years use saves a few dollars.

If the cost of changing plates isn't an issue then it can't hurt to install new ones and have a trouble free clutch for many years to come.

Cheers.

[Nessism]

A new set of OEM clutch springs and cover gasket is a good place to start. Rub the gasket with grease before tightening, that way it won't stick if you have to go inside again.

[rphillips]

He says problem is clutch doesn't engage till clutch lever nearly all the way out. Only thing I can think of that should change where lever is when clutch engages is how much slack in cable.

[roy826]

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He says problem is clutch doesn't engage till clutch lever nearly all the way out. Only thing I can think of that should change where lever is when clutch engages is how much slack in cable.

Tried adjusting at cable it made shifting rough with less adjustment at the lever. And it changes as the engine heats up. I’m pretty sure this old clutch is toast. Mostly from age and sitting for years and years. Reason I’m replacing it.

[Rob S.]

The outside clutch lever may be at the wrong angle when it's attached to the cable.

[roy826]

The outside clutch lever may be at the wrong angle when it's attached to the cable.

It’s only been off once and I marked it before I replaced the oil seal on the shaft. It’s in the correct location unless the factory put it on wrong 43 years ago. The clutch felt better way back then.

[rphillips]

No doubt roy, think we're all on your side, hoping what you're doing fixes the problem. The comments are just from folks that have seen how little these GS plates are known to ware, just almost doesn't happen, even with time, miles, and abuse... What you're thinking seems reasonable, the rare problem of clutch not engaging till lever almost all the way out caused by the rare problem of ware on clutch plates. Another thought you said new springs were with the kit. From what I've seen many after mkt. springs are HD, You probably won't like HD, the make the lever harder to pull and the OEM pressure springs are plenty strong for what they're designed to do till they get old enough to lose some of the orig. pressure. Like me, in 71 yrs. I've lost a little pressure, drip on my shoes every once in a while... Luck to ya and don't forget an update.

[roy826]

I may or may not install the new kits springs. It’s plenty hard now to pull with oem springs compared to my new Suzukis a 2021, 2022 both inline 4s.

[rphillips]

"21" and "22" probably hydraulic clutches, I've not noticed but have heard the old cable operated were harder to pull than the newer hydraulic... I'd still rather have the cable.

[roy826]

"21" and "22" probably hydraulic clutches, I've not noticed but have heard the old cable operated were harder to pull than the newer hydraulic... I'd still rather have the cable.

They are both cable clutches. 2021 GSX-R1000R and 2022 GSX-S1000 GT+

Both way easier to pull than the 1982 Katana 1000

[rphillips]

Well, thank you Suzuki. I've got "1993" GSX1100G, a "98" Bandit 1200, and an "05" Bandit 1200, all with hydraulic clutch, figured they were here to stay. Glad Suzuki took my suggestion and went back to the cable.

[roy826]

Well, thank you Suzuki. I've got "1993" GSX1100G, a "98" Bandit 1200, and an "05" Bandit 1200, all with hydraulic clutch, figured they were here to stay. Glad Suzuki took my suggestion and went back to the cable.

They used hydraulic clutches on the 2007-2008 GSX-R1000s but went back to cable in 2009. Been cable ever since, thank goodness. The Hayabusa still uses a hydraulic clutch.

I had a 99 and 00 Bandit 1200s and the first year model 07 Bandit 1250. All great bikes but the first year 1250 suffered from erratic FI at least mine did.

[roy826]

What’s the deal on piano wire and last metal plate? Everyone add that last metal plate as a new one or just leave it be as is? I’ve always left it as is on both Yamaha bikes and Suzukis I’ve done full clutches on. Mine looks the best of all the metal plates I’ve removed on this bike.